I need current

[wickedscerrorbel88]

I’m following this thread out of curiosity. I have no experience here.

However, maybe you could post a detailed video or pictures of what you have going on. My guess is you have a short somewhere.

Here’s my bike with its 2-stroke mounted seamlessly onto the frame. It seems to be ready to hit the road already. The sunlight shines brightly enough, highlighting it, while the background shows a wall, drawing attention to the main subject.


At first glance, you wouldn't guess that there are some issues lurking beneath the surface. However, as I mentioned, it's not all smooth sailing — the bike's lacking a spark.

 

[Captain Awesome]

Why don’t you post what readings you got from the voltmeter at each junction and let’s see if they’re strong enough

Also where did the motor kit come from? Link by chance? Maybe they have known issues

 

[Forgottentirator1337]

Y'know, been dealing with this crazy problem on my bike. It just won't start despite having spark. I've dedicated two years now to unraveling this mystery, each day feeling like a hot desert journey, with every step weighed down by the burden of uncertainty, as I exhaustively explore every conceivable factor that might be at fault. I've checked the CDI, tested current flow with a multimeter, and even replaced the magneto coil again. And let's not forget about the brand new spark plugs I put in. Doesn't seem to work though. What am I missing? The bike isn't moving, so I'm really at a loss here. It's starting to drive me disappointed, to be honest. I mean, I rely on my motorized bike so much, and not being able to get it started is really frustrating. I've tried everything I can think of, but it's like the spark just ain't there. And without that spark, the engine just won't turn over. I've been going over everything in my brain, trying to think of what else I could try. But no matter how hard I think, I just can't seem to come up with anything. It's like I'm playing a game of "Find the Issue," and so far, I'm losing! I guess I'll just have to keep trying until something works.

But until then, I'm stuck with a bike that just won't start, no matter what I do. So, after a lot of troubleshooting, I finally managed to confirm the presence of spark in my bike's ignition system. It's definitely a step in the right direction, but it's not quite the victory dance moment I was hoping for. Even though I couldn't see any spark, I accidentally touched the exposed engine while riding, and there it was, just hiding out. Here's the weird thing: it still won't start. It's like I'm playing a game of "Find the Issue," and so far, I'm still losing! I've spent what feels like eons checking every little thing in the electrical system. From testing the CDI to poking around with a multimeter to swapping out the magneto coil and slapping in fresh spark plugs, I've left no stone unturned. But despite all that, this motorized bike is playing hard to get, and I'm left scratching my head. The disappointment is real, especially considering how much I rely on my bikes. Not being able to count on it for my daily commute is more than just a minor inconvenience. It's like having your trusty sidekick bail on you when you need them the most. And then there's that pesky squeaking sound the engine makes while I'm riding. Is it related to the starting issue, or is it something else entirely? It's just another piece of the puzzle that I'll need to figure out. Don't worry, I'm not just giving up yet. Whether it's diving back into troubleshooting or seeking out some sage advice from fellow bike enthusiasts, I'm determined to crack this nut. Until then, I'll keep figuring out, hopeful that I'll stumble upon the solution sooner rather than later.

 

[Captain Awesome]

Y'know, been dealing with this crazy problem on my bike. It just won't start despite having spark. I've dedicated two years now to unraveling this mystery, each day feeling like a hot desert journey, with every step weighed down by the burden of uncertainty, as I exhaustively explore every conceivable factor that might be at fault. I've checked the CDI, tested current flow with a multimeter, and even replaced the magneto coil again. And let's not forget about the brand new spark plugs I put in. Doesn't seem to work though. What am I missing? The bike isn't moving, so I'm really at a loss here. It's starting to drive me disappointed, to be honest. I mean, I rely on my motorized bike so much, and not being able to get it started is really frustrating. I've tried everything I can think of, but it's like the spark just ain't there. And without that spark, the engine just won't turn over. I've been going over everything in my brain, trying to think of what else I could try. But no matter how hard I think, I just can't seem to come up with anything. It's like I'm playing a game of "Find the Issue," and so far, I'm losing! I guess I'll just have to keep trying until something works.







View attachment 264684











But until then, I'm stuck with a bike that just won't start, no matter what I do. So, after a lot of troubleshooting, I finally managed to confirm the presence of spark in my bike's ignition system. It's definitely a step in the right direction, but it's not quite the victory dance moment I was hoping for. Even though I couldn't see any spark, I accidentally touched the exposed engine while riding, and there it was, just hiding out. Here's the weird thing: it still won't start. It's like I'm playing a game of "Find the Issue," and so far, I'm still losing! I've spent what feels like eons checking every little thing in the electrical system. From testing the CDI to poking around with a multimeter to swapping out the magneto coil and slapping in fresh spark plugs, I've left no stone unturned. But despite all that, this motorized bike is playing hard to get, and I'm left scratching my head. The disappointment is real, especially considering how much I rely on my bikes. Not being able to count on it for my daily commute is more than just a minor inconvenience. It's like having your trusty sidekick bail on you when you need them the most. And then there's that pesky squeaking sound the engine makes while I'm riding. Is it related to the starting issue, or is it something else entirely? It's just another piece of the puzzle that I'll need to figure out. Don't worry, I'm not just giving up yet. Whether it's diving back into troubleshooting or seeking out some sage advice from fellow bike enthusiasts, I'm determined to crack this nut. Until then, I'll keep figuring out, hopeful that I'll stumble upon the solution sooner rather than later.

bro, are you for real right now?

You delete your other account and then you create this one to ask the exact same questions because you’re not getting the answers that you want?

 

[Forgottentirator1337]

bro, are you for real right now?

You delete your other account and then you create this one to ask the exact same questions because you’re not getting the answers that you want?

I just did it to make things clear now.

 

[Captain Awesome]

I just did it to make things clear now.

That makes absolutely no sense. Why not just clear up what you previously posted?

 

[Forgottentirator1337]

That makes absolutely no sense. Why not just clear up what you previously posted?

It's easier for me to start fresh rather than trying to untangle the mess from before.

 

[twojs.bike]

 

[axeman88]

I have an engine kit I bought a while ago, but, I haven't gotten to it yet, so no specific expertise, .... but I do have some skill at problem solving, so I'll jump in.

It looks to me like the KILL switch (is it actually a momentary acting button, or is it a switch) must short the Yellow to the Green, If these are hooked up to the Blue and Black as shown, that would short Blue to Black, i.e. short Blue to ground.

And, it appears that the Optional method, with the dotted Yellow line is to short White via dotted Yellow to Green to Black to ground, so I'd assume that White goes to Blue inside the engine?

And, I'd assume that Blue / White comes from some sort of generator coil inside the engine? What sort of pulse voltage & power is expected on Blue over Black? This really seems like it's more of a Magneto type ignition, than a CDI type to me.

If there is no kill switch, it seems like a only a few things could be wrong.
- Weak permanent magnet inside engine, producing insufficient power
- Power is being dissipated on it's way to the CDI. Shorted or low resistance to ground on Blue or White
- Bad CDI
- Black CDI primary wire is not grounded
- High resistance on High voltage lead to spark plug
- Spark plug is gapped too wide or internally open, or too high of resistance.
- Engine is not grounded

How is your White wire terminated?

 

[Forgottentirator1337]

View attachment 264685

I have an engine kit I bought a while ago, but, I haven't gotten to it yet, so no specific expertise, .... but I do have some skill at problem solving, so I'll jump in.

It looks to me like the KILL switch (is it actually a momentary acting button, or is it a switch) must short the Yellow to the Green, If these are hooked up to the Blue and Black as shown, that would short Blue to Black, i.e. short Blue to ground.

And, it appears that the Optional method, with the dotted Yellow line is to short White via dotted Yellow to Green to Black to ground, so I'd assume that White goes to Blue inside the engine?

And, I'd assume that Blue / White comes from some sort of generator coil inside the engine? What sort of pulse voltage & power is expected on Blue over Black? This really seems like it's more of a Magneto type ignition, than a CDI type to me.

If there is no kill switch, it seems like a only a few things could be wrong.
- Weak permanent magnet inside engine, producing insufficient power
- Power is being dissipated on it's way to the CDI. Shorted or low resistance to ground on Blue or White
- Bad CDI
- Black CDI primary wire is not grounded
- High resistance on High voltage lead to spark plug
- Spark plug is gapped too wide or internally open, or too high of resistance.
- Engine is not grounded

How is your White wire terminated?

Welcome, thanks for jumping in to help out!
Regarding your questions, the KILL switch is a momentary acting button, not a switch. As for the wiring, my magneto loop indeed doesn't include a white wire; it's a blue/red and black cable setup.
It's a relief to know that the issues might be traced back to a few common culprits like the weak permanent magnet, potential CDI issues, or grounding problems. I'll definitely look into those possibilities. Unfortunately, I'm not entirely sure about the pulse voltage and power expected on Blue over Black; that's something I need to investigate further.

 

[axeman88]

Welcome, thanks for jumping in to help out!
Regarding your questions, the KILL switch is a momentary acting button, not a switch. As for the wiring, my magneto loop indeed doesn't include a white wire; it's a blue/red and black cable setup.
It's a relief to know that the issues might be traced back to a few common culprits like the weak permanent magnet, potential CDI issues, or grounding problems. I'll definitely look into those possibilities. Unfortunately, I'm not entirely sure about the pulse voltage and power expected on Blue over Black; that's something I need to investigate further.

If it's Blue / Red / Black, from the engine, did you get a wiring diagram with the engine? Can you post that diagram, or mark up Capt. Awesome's wiring diagram with 1) how you are supposed to connect up and 2) how you ACTUALLY connected up?

Also, in your picture of your bike, I see what looks like a wire heading up the down tube from the ignition module on its way towards, ... ?? .... presumably the handlebar? It snakes around the far side of the head and we don't know where it goes. Is that the wire that was supposed to go to the kill button? If so, where does it go and how is it terminated?

Again, a comparison of how the system was supposed to be wired, vs how it IS wired, might clear your issue up really fast.

 

[Forgottentirator1337]

I didn't get a wiring diagram with the engine. Regarding the photo, it might be misleading; the wire is not headed towards the handlebars at all, although it appears so. The pic doesn't even clearly show everything; it merely depicts the bike. As for the KILL switch, I mentioned it's a momentary acting button, not a switch. Regarding the wiring, my new magneto loop does not include a white wire; it's a simple setup with a blue or red and black cable.

Also, the cables of the kill switch aren't currently connected because it indeed does not affect the situation. It only kills it, well the engine won't run yet.

 

[Forgottentirator1337]

 

[axeman88]

I didn't get a wiring diagram with the engine. Regarding the photo, it might be misleading; the wire is not headed towards the handlebars at all, although it appears so. The pic doesn't even clearly show everything; it merely depicts the bike. As for the KILL switch, I mentioned it's a momentary acting button, not a switch. Regarding the wiring, my new magneto loop does not include a white wire; it's a simple setup with a blue or red and black cable.

Also, the cables of the kill switch aren't currently connected because it indeed does not affect the situation. It only kills it, well the engine won't run yet.

No new information was provided, so the situation, and advice, remains unchanged.

Blue / Red / Black or Blue / White / Black seem equally simple to me, and doesn't tell us which wires you connected to what, and which was left (hopefully) disconnected.

I'm afraid that you're on your own, unless you can tell us what you have (It would also help to know what you were supposed to have). I suggest you get out the colored pencils and draw a diagram of how you put your system together.

Based on what you've laid out so far, I'd say the most likely situation is that you've grounded the magneto output.

 

[Forgottentirator1337]

No new information was provided, so the situation, and advice, remains unchanged.

Blue / Red / Black or Blue / White / Black seem equally simple to me, and doesn't tell us which wires you connected to what, and which was left (hopefully) disconnected.

I'm afraid that you're on your own, unless you can tell us what you have (It would also help to know what you were supposed to have). I suggest you get out the colored pencils and draw a diagram of how you put your system together.

Based on what you've laid out so far, I'd say the most likely situation is that you've grounded the magneto output.

What's your deal, to be honest? I've provided all the necessary info, even went the extra mile in the details, yet you're still yapping it's not enough. Disappointing, like you're just doubting my understanding.

I clearly outlined how I wired everything correctly, so why this BS? I certainly have more clue about the wiring than you think; it's straightforward, match BLACK to BLACK, and the rest follows suit. And what exactly are you expecting me to have? I'm really not here to play games, nor am I interested in wasting my time sketching out some diagrams you won't comprehend. So, if you're suggesting the magneto output is grounded, what's the next step then?

 

[Captain Awesome]

What's your deal, to be honest? I've provided all the necessary info, even went the extra mile in the details, yet you're still yapping it's not enough. Disappointing, like you're just doubting my understanding.

I clearly outlined how I wired everything correctly, so why this BS? I certainly have more clue about the wiring than you think; it's straightforward, match BLACK to BLACK, and the rest follows suit. And what exactly are you expecting me to have? I'm really not here to play games, nor am I interested in wasting my time sketching out some diagrams you won't comprehend. So, if you're suggesting the magneto output is grounded, what's the next step then?

Interesting approach for someone asking for help

Why don’t you post what readings you got from the voltmeter at each junction and let’s see if they’re strong enough

Also where did the motor kit come from? Link by chance? Maybe they have known issues

You never answered this

View attachment 264827

What are you trying to show us in this photo?

 

[Forgottentirator1337]

Interesting approach for someone asking for help








What are you trying to show us in this photo?

Regarding those multimeter readings, the ignition coil and CDI have normal readings, telling me that the current flow is just as it should be. As for the photo, it's all about showing you the magnet itself. You see, every engine relies on this component to produce spark. Without it, there's no electricity flowing, plain and simple. So, what you're seeing in the photo is exactly that: the magnet that powers up the bike.

About its origin, yes, it is from eBay, and it probably set me back around $210. But it's alright, I haven't heard any rumblings about issues with it so far. It's been doing its job just fine up to that point.

 

[Captain Awesome]

Regarding those multimeter readings, the ignition coil and CDI have normal readings, telling me that the current flow is just as it should be. As for the photo, it's all about showing you the magnet itself. You see, every engine relies on this component to produce spark. Without it, there's no electricity flowing, plain and simple. So, what you're seeing in the photo is exactly that: the magnet that powers up the bike.

About its origin, yes, it is from eBay, and it probably set me back around $210. But it's alright, I haven't heard any rumblings about issues with it so far. It's been doing its job just fine up to that point.

What are those “normal” readings exactly? (Post the numbers)

And how do you know they are “normal”? Do you have some manufacturer details you haven’t mentioned?

What about at the mag output as you only mention the coil and the CDI

 

[axeman88]

What's your deal, to be honest? I've provided all the necessary info, even went the extra mile in the details, yet you're still yapping it's not enough. Disappointing, like you're just doubting my understanding.

I clearly outlined how I wired everything correctly, so why this BS? I certainly have more clue about the wiring than you think; it's straightforward, match BLACK to BLACK, and the rest follows suit. And what exactly are you expecting me to have? I'm really not here to play games, nor am I interested in wasting my time sketching out some diagrams you won't comprehend. So, if you're suggesting the magneto output is grounded, what's the next step then?

Two years working on a system with three wires, and it's still not working, would normally lead any ordinary person to suspect that they didn't understand what they were doing, yes.

Since you said you received NO documentation with the engine, and posted no readings, and also stated that you didn't KNOW what voltage or power the circuit was supposed to operate at, it's hard to imagine HOW you can state that readings are "normal". We could assume you mean you took resistance measurements, that match something you found on the internet, but you never stated this, and that's an assumption that contradicts your language about verifying "normal CURRENT flow". Regardless, as as Capt. Awesome pointed out, unless you share those, what can we do with your statements.

One would probably assume black to black and blue to blue, however it's certainly possible that the factory changed wire color codes at some point, or mis-wired your particular components. And, this is the first time you stated that you hooked things up based on color.

As I already said, If you don't have time to share your readings, or diagram your wiring, there's very little we can do for you. You don't seem to understand how a diagnostic process, or asking for free help, works.

But it's alright, I haven't heard any rumblings about issues with it so far. It's been doing its job just fine up to that point.

But, I'm glad to hear that everything is now working satisfactorily. Congratulations!

 

[Forgottentirator1337]

What are those “normal” readings exactly? (Post the numbers)

And how do you know they are “normal”? Do you have some manufacturer details you haven’t mentioned?

What about at the mag output as you only mention the coil and the CDI

Why the relentless skepticism? You can't just accept that the readings are within the usual range? Who do you think you are to constantly doubt and question without offering any constructive input? If you're not here to help, refrain from adding unnecessary commentary. I do not have any additional information to provide. And frankly, it's irrelevant. The manufacturer is not at fault here. What matters is finding a solution to the problem at hand. Regarding the magneto output, if you're sooo keen on asking questions, why not offer some guidance instead? Tell me how to check it, or better yet, provide some useful insights that might actually help resolving. Otherwise, spare me the interrogation.