If you have some extra fenders and guards laying around, try the RaT-ina / faux-tina / surreal rust on them to match your main frame and tank.
You've already got some real rust on the fenders, so you can preserve that along the way. One thing that the patina process requires is a good eye for color and the hues and subtleties. From the logo you created, I can tell you already have that innate skill!
Now you just have to use it to re-create the look of the frame / tank to the fenders. I would try to match the white tips and tails and pinstripe to the more cream color on the tank, for starters. And then pick out the 3-4 colors in the 'reddish brown' hues you find in the frame. I have actually brought bike frames , saddles, etc with me to my local HomeDepot or Ace Hardware to hold rattle cans of paint up to them to get the best possible matches. And then, the best is if you can find your colors in Flat or Matte finish. Even Satin will be too shiny. Remember, this bike has been sitting around for 70+ years getting weathered and aged. Ain't much shine left.
It's a layering and extremely light spraying process from usually 2-4 feet away once you start blending. And then, to preserve your natural rust and the rust-ina that you create, you can use the mustard method to save those spots where you want the rust to show through.
When you are satisfied with the end result, I like to use the Dead Flat Clear to finish it off and seal all of your creative work. It will take any shine that might have come from the cans or the blending of different colors and textures.
You've already got some real rust on the fenders, so you can preserve that along the way. One thing that the patina process requires is a good eye for color and the hues and subtleties. From the logo you created, I can tell you already have that innate skill!
Now you just have to use it to re-create the look of the frame / tank to the fenders. I would try to match the white tips and tails and pinstripe to the more cream color on the tank, for starters. And then pick out the 3-4 colors in the 'reddish brown' hues you find in the frame. I have actually brought bike frames , saddles, etc with me to my local HomeDepot or Ace Hardware to hold rattle cans of paint up to them to get the best possible matches. And then, the best is if you can find your colors in Flat or Matte finish. Even Satin will be too shiny. Remember, this bike has been sitting around for 70+ years getting weathered and aged. Ain't much shine left.
It's a layering and extremely light spraying process from usually 2-4 feet away once you start blending. And then, to preserve your natural rust and the rust-ina that you create, you can use the mustard method to save those spots where you want the rust to show through.
When you are satisfied with the end result, I like to use the Dead Flat Clear to finish it off and seal all of your creative work. It will take any shine that might have come from the cans or the blending of different colors and textures.