TRADITIONAL Iron & Oxygen

[Uncle Shish]

Here's a series of tests.

1939 Fender with 11t S2

In a compromise to cutting anything on the fender, I drilled a 2nd mounting hole for the seat stays mount position allowing the fender to rotate about a half to three quarters of an inch

A little nicer fit where it meets the guard.

Seems like a better fit.

 

[kingfish254]

Ah, I bet if you did some measurement on your frame and the donor 41 frame, you would find that where the tire/fender crosses the seatstays is a good bit higher relative to chainstay crossing point. Your choice is to not use the 41 fender or make new seatstay indents that match your frame geometry. Or use another fender that matches your frame geometry better.

 

[BobbyStillz]

Here's a series of tests.
View attachment 271135
1939 Fender with 11t S2
View attachment 271136
In a compromise to cutting anything on the fender, I drilled a 2nd mounting hole for the seat stays mount position allowing the fender to rotate about a half to three quarters of an inch
View attachment 271137
A little nicer fit where it meets the guard.View attachment 271141
View attachment 271142
Seems like a better fit.

You can give yourself the extra shift/shim (for spacing) by putting rubber washers between the fender and each mounting point. It will give you the ability to loosen the mounting screws a touch and give you the flex without bending the fender.

Seat stay- rubber washer(s)-fender.

Lower bracket- rubber washer(s)-fender.

You can put a metal washer on top of the rubber one (between mount and rubber) if you want to protect the rubber washers from friction wear at the mounting point.

 

[Uncle Shish]

You can give yourself the extra shift/shim (for spacing) by putting rubber washers between the fender and each mounting point. It will give you the ability to loosen the mounting screws a touch and give you the flex without bending the fender.

Seat stay- rubber washer(s)-fender.

Lower bracket- rubber washer(s)-fender.

You can put a metal washer on top of the rubber one (between mount and rubber) if you want to protect the rubber washers from friction wear at the mounting point.

Great ideas to try. Thanks.

 

[Uncle Shish]

Last bit from me today ... Someone mentioned earlier about the braces and so I did a comparison of the 39/40 braces to the 41 braces.
Might also be worth the swap.
Might eliminate the push and pull distortion of the fender.

 

[kingfish254]

Looks like you are dialing it in more and more. If the longer braces don't quite get you there, then you could extend the seatstay dimples a little more here and drill another crosspiece hole.

 

[GeePig]

If you fitted a 1/4" or 1/2" spacer on the the lower front mount, how much would that rotate the mudguard?

 

[OddJob]

If you fitted a 1/4" or 1/2" spacer on the the lower front mount, how much would that rotate the mudguard?

I like GeePig's idea. As KF mentioned, you are getting really close to the desired look. I have used nylon tube spacers a number of times on builds to make the front of a fender conform to the tire / wheel combo. Especially when I have added a larger tire that required me to move it back in the rear dropout.

It has a hole down the middle, and you can get them in 1" lengths, then cut to your specs. I've found them in a white or cream color, and black. Different bore diameters as well. I usually haul my mounting hardware with me to the store and test fit in Aisle 24.

 

[Uncle Shish]

Today I will be taking steps backwards to move forward. I'm tearing the rear wheel back down and replacing the Morrow with an 11t New Departure.

 

[Uncle Shish]

Also going to try and make the 1939 braces match the 1941 braces.

 

[OddJob]

Sounds like a worthy task for a Friday. RaT oN~!

 

[Uncle Shish]

Not too bad ...

Contrary to this photo I'm not always a grouchy old guy ...

 

[Uncle Shish]

I'm going to call today a success!
I need to tweak the hub just a tad, but let me tell you, if you have old knees a 24t chainring paired with an 11t rear sprocket is a pretty unbelievable joy to ride!

As always, a special thanks to my bike buddy Dyno Dan who tore that wheel back down so fast it'd make your head spin.

 

[The Renaissance Man]

Looks like a good fit!

 

[Pondo]

The fender lines look so much better now. Nicely done! And the gearing is important for sure.

 

[kingfish254]

Nice work. That wheel seems to fit well and centered all around within the fenderwell now.

 

[Uncle Shish]

Nice work. That wheel seems to fit well and centered all around within the fenderwell now.

Thanks! What a difference in rideability, too. Win, win!

 

[Uncle Shish]

A couple mandatory touches ...
The original Manistee Bike License plate from the farm town this bike was found ...

... ad the St. Christopher medallion that was salvaged from one of the bikes that didn't survive.

From the original haul, 3 of 5 bikes have been saved.

 

[Uncle Shish]

 

[OddJob]

DUDE!!