Re-spaced the dropouts to fit shiny hub. 112mm to 125mm
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Re-spaced the dropouts to fit shiny hub. 112mm to 125mm
I needed a 3/32 chainring to support multi gears in the rear. It was cheaper to buy a Varsity off CL than to buy a chainring off eBay. So I did. What’s the harm in owning one more bike?
Would it be a sin to pull the tank off of this JC Higgins and paint it ladybug theme?
It would just take some minor modifications to get a good fit.
Would it be a sin to pull the tank off of this JC Higgins and paint it ladybug theme?
It would just take some minor modifications to get a good fit.
Are those Schwinn Approved hubs made in France, or Japan?
I have the Japanese ones on a build in-progress and two spare sets of Frenchies. Either ones set up properly will spin for days.
I have the Japanese ones on a build in-progress and two spare sets of Frenchies. Either ones set up properly will spin for days.
France. I have another pair in my piles of parts and another on the varsity I just bought. They are pretty.
Using the shed as a spray booth. Got the primer on. I’m using rust oleum rattle cans. I have not mastered painting bikes. Sure hope this turns out well.
Finally feels like things are starting to come together.
My plan is to get the paint finished up this week and hang the frame to cure until the last minute.
I’m going to need another project. Tempted to delete the fenders from the JC Higgins (tank is off) and put on some skinny tires.
I’m totally addicted to this.
I need to learn how to weld and bend metal. Would love to make my own whacky handlebars.
Now with that Varsity in your herd, you've got the perfect bones for a Skinny Wheel entry! I'd use that and save the cool Higgins for next Summer's RRB Build Off.
I have used rattle can paint exclusively on my many builds, and Rustoleum is a good one. Couple of tips with rattle can painting on round, small diameter surfaces; like bike frames. Keep your distance, farther away than they say on the can. I'm usually anywhere between 18-24" away for full coverage, and farther for just a dusting of a faux-tina patina job. Thin coats. And pull the frame into different lighting to be able to see any 'holidays' (painters term for missed spots or low coverage spots) that might not show up in your shed. I typically start with the frame upside down, and paint the bottom side of the tubes first, then flip it for the top side. You want even, solid coverage before you move on.
Those hubs are sweet! And yes, once the 'rat rod bike bug' bites, it's hard to get it out of your system!
I have used rattle can paint exclusively on my many builds, and Rustoleum is a good one. Couple of tips with rattle can painting on round, small diameter surfaces; like bike frames. Keep your distance, farther away than they say on the can. I'm usually anywhere between 18-24" away for full coverage, and farther for just a dusting of a faux-tina patina job. Thin coats. And pull the frame into different lighting to be able to see any 'holidays' (painters term for missed spots or low coverage spots) that might not show up in your shed. I typically start with the frame upside down, and paint the bottom side of the tubes first, then flip it for the top side. You want even, solid coverage before you move on.
Those hubs are sweet! And yes, once the 'rat rod bike bug' bites, it's hard to get it out of your system!
A couple more topics. I love the all the feedback.
Muscle Bike:
The debate in my mind about muscle vs off-road continues. At the moment, I am leaning pretty hard towards switching to muscle.
One of my concerns is about putting a small wheel up front and if that will cause the pedals to bottom out. The picture below is an identical frame that I just rode for a few miles with a 20in wheel. The pedals were low, but it was rideable. Just have to be careful not to pedal through turns.
I think it looks cool. I would use the widest tire possible in back and something more narrow up front. Any thoughts on using a 24in front wheel vs 20in? I’m leaning towards the 20in so it is visibly obvious. 24in would give a bit more clearance.
The rims I want are available in 20 and 24. A-7x sold by bmxguru. Although their website says they are closed for a month. Hope everything is OK.
Tank Mount:
The Higgins frame has a tab to hold the tank in place. Picture below. The Schwinn doesn’t have this tab. This might be a good first welding project. I know nothing about welding but this seems like an easy place to start. One problem is I have already begun painting. Would it be ok to remove a tiny bit of paint just to make this weld and then do a little touch up paint? Any other advice for a complete newby? If I don’t weld on a tab, I can get creative with a hose clamp or something similar.
If I go muscle I would like to find a lay back seat post and some longer ape hangers. At this point I don’t want a banana seat. Not my thing. (But I constantly evolve)
Muscle Bike:
The debate in my mind about muscle vs off-road continues. At the moment, I am leaning pretty hard towards switching to muscle.
One of my concerns is about putting a small wheel up front and if that will cause the pedals to bottom out. The picture below is an identical frame that I just rode for a few miles with a 20in wheel. The pedals were low, but it was rideable. Just have to be careful not to pedal through turns.
I think it looks cool. I would use the widest tire possible in back and something more narrow up front. Any thoughts on using a 24in front wheel vs 20in? I’m leaning towards the 20in so it is visibly obvious. 24in would give a bit more clearance.
The rims I want are available in 20 and 24. A-7x sold by bmxguru. Although their website says they are closed for a month. Hope everything is OK.
Tank Mount:
The Higgins frame has a tab to hold the tank in place. Picture below. The Schwinn doesn’t have this tab. This might be a good first welding project. I know nothing about welding but this seems like an easy place to start. One problem is I have already begun painting. Would it be ok to remove a tiny bit of paint just to make this weld and then do a little touch up paint? Any other advice for a complete newby? If I don’t weld on a tab, I can get creative with a hose clamp or something similar.
If I go muscle I would like to find a lay back seat post and some longer ape hangers. At this point I don’t want a banana seat. Not my thing. (But I constantly evolve)
Throw a 4.5 in crank in there and you shouldn't have a problem
Do you happen to have a longer fork? That would help with ground clearance and the chopper look. If you've never welded before I would recommend practicing on scrap metal 1st and see how it goes. Similar metal to what you'll be working with on the bike. The last thing you want to do is eat holes in the tubing that might be challenging to fill back in. Welding is fun though! 
What about running a 24" skinny on front?
I'm with Markm, ^^. The 24" wheel will roll better, and with a skinny tire on there, you'll get 'the look', and get to keep the longer cranks.
I have this 24" Schwinn wheel with a 24 × 1 1/8 Tioga Poweblock mounted on it that I could send you.
Let me know for sure (start Conversation) if you are interested, it takes a little doing to access it!
I have this 24" Schwinn wheel with a 24 × 1 1/8 Tioga Poweblock mounted on it that I could send you.
Let me know for sure (start Conversation) if you are interested, it takes a little doing to access it!
I couldn’t stand to loose these reflective decals.
So I used my heat gun to toast them from inside the tank. They peeled right off.
I might have a problem.
So I used my heat gun to toast them from inside the tank. They peeled right off.
I might have a problem.
A little progress today. Decals from Sunset Sticker Co.
The more I think about painting an old bike, the more I am against it. Going forward, I will try to preserve the original paint whenever possible. However, I am past the point of no return on this one.
The paint actually looks really good from a few feet away. It does not look as bad in person as it does in these close up shots. The frame has about 4 light coats of red and has been hanging up to dry for several days.
What should I do to finish this? Wet sand with 1000 grit and clear coat? Wet sand and wax? Leave it alone and wax only? I will not have time to do anything until mid next week.
I promise it actually looks pretty good in person.
The paint actually looks really good from a few feet away. It does not look as bad in person as it does in these close up shots. The frame has about 4 light coats of red and has been hanging up to dry for several days.
What should I do to finish this? Wet sand with 1000 grit and clear coat? Wet sand and wax? Leave it alone and wax only? I will not have time to do anything until mid next week.
I promise it actually looks pretty good in person.
If you're looking for smooth it'll be pretty hard to get that out without sanding. You could always try laying on some 2K clear coat nice and heavy and see how it goes and then wet sand back
Depends on what type of paint you used. That looks like some form of rattle can that was sprayed cold? If that's the case, you run the possibility of bubbling the paint if you sand and clearcoat. Rattle cans are very tricky and never consistent. They spray an inconsistent pattern/amount. And they are fickle in the weather. They like it warm.
That being said, IMO you have two options: 1) Leave it alone and accept it. 2) Let it dry FULLY. Wet sand it to about 1000 grit... very gently... wipe it down with a lint-free rag. If you haven't sanded through any of the paint, then apply a clearcoat from the same company who made the paint you sprayed.
That being said, IMO you have two options: 1) Leave it alone and accept it. 2) Let it dry FULLY. Wet sand it to about 1000 grit... very gently... wipe it down with a lint-free rag. If you haven't sanded through any of the paint, then apply a clearcoat from the same company who made the paint you sprayed.
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Try pork chop Bmx for you wheels.
don't knock a supper tall sissy strut and a banana seat like say this. but hook it up to a laid back seat post. not a straight post. that will lean it back and look cool.
