Linseed oil finish?

[user 26234]

I have a project I'm currently working on which I want to keep as raw steel finish. Would y'all be saying BLO is the best option or is there something better out there?

I asked in another forum and someone said BLO is a bit old-tech and suggested there would be better, more modern options, they suggested Dinitrol products but not a specific product and I can't really see anything in the range that'll do what I want. Linseed oil is so cheap that I reckon I'll give it a shot.

Given the spontaneous combustion danger with the rags, I wonder if welding on a frame that's previously been linseed oiled is safe?

Last question, I presume the ambient temperature will affect drying times for BLO? I'm in Scotland and it's barely been above freezing for the last few weeks, I could bring the frame into my flat if there's not too much smell from linseed oil? Hammerite paint is the other option I was considering (though I really would prefer to be able to see th raw steel) but going by past experience of painting a frame in summer, I'd expect it'd take about a month for hammerite to cure at the moment!

 

[ratrodzrcool]

I have a project I'm currently working on which I want to keep as raw steel finish. Would y'all be saying BLO is the best option or is there something better out there?

I asked in another forum and someone said BLO is a bit old-tech and suggested there would be better, more modern options, they suggested Dinitrol products but not a specific product and I can't really see anything in the range that'll do what I want. Linseed oil is so cheap that I reckon I'll give it a shot.

Given the spontaneous combustion danger with the rags, I wonder if welding on a frame that's previously been linseed oiled is safe?

Last question, I presume the ambient temperature will affect drying times for BLO? I'm in Scotland and it's barely been above freezing for the last few weeks, I could bring the frame into my flat if there's not too much smell from linseed oil? Hammerite paint is the other option I was considering (though I really would prefer to be able to see th raw steel) but going by past experience of painting a frame in summer, I'd expect it'd take about a month for hammerite to cure at the moment!

From what I've been told if you clear coat a raw steel frame it will rust under the clear But i used blo and didn't have a problem i just put it on real lightly several coats and it looks good

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[user 26234]

From what I've been told if you clear coat a raw steel frame it will rust under the clear But i used blo and didn't have a problem i just put it on real lightly several coats and it looks good

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Yeah I've done clearcoat over raw steel on a few things, sometimes it seems to take pretty well, others it flakes off real easy and it's always a temporary solution, it doesn't take long for the moisture to find a way in.

I tried blo a while ago actually and din't get on with it but I think I layed it on too thick so it just stayed gummy. Will try lighter coats this time.

Is there much smell/fumes from it when it's wet?

 

[ratrodzrcool]

Yeah I've done clearcoat over raw steel on a few things, sometimes it seems to take pretty well, others it flakes off real easy and it's always a temporary solution, it doesn't take long for the moisture to find a way in.

I tried blo a while ago actually and din't get on with it but I think I layed it on too thick so it just stayed gummy. Will try lighter coats this time.

Is there much smell/fumes from it when it's wet?

I don't remember i did it outside

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[user 26234]

I don't remember i did it outside

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Ah no worries. Guess I'll buy some and see what it's like.

 

[Fv2]

You'll want to put in on thin and kind of buff it out by hand with a rag.
I always soak my rags in a bucket of water afterwards, then lay them out away from my garage.

BLO has a slight oil smell, but I don't consider it much different than a pan full of cooking oil.


If you've got the money, you might check with local powdercoat shops. Clear powder over raw steel looks good and is durable.

 

[Fv2]

Oh, and I don't think welding is an issue. As long as you clean the oil off thoroughly.

 

[SILVERKINGPC]

Linseed oil is hard to beat. It's simply flax seed oil, has no harsh chemicals, it doesn't burn really, paints love it, wipe on/wipe off application. great sealer & protectant for metal too. Sometimes old is better.

 

[user 26234]

Cheers guys, litre of linseed arrived in the mail today. Will get on it soon. In the mean time, the bike as it is just now

 

[SILVERKINGPC]

Cool frame & fork! Steel or alu?

 

[user 26234]

Cool frame & fork! Steel or alu?

Steel.

I wasn't sure about the fork at first, I have a kona p2 fork I thought about using but I like segmented forks. Got one on my other bike too.

 

[SILVERKINGPC]

Nice! (Steel-is ideal) Too bad a 1" steel threaded disc fork like that isn't around..

 

[us56456712]

I have an old Rollfast frame that was buried in the ground under a junk pile. I couldn't get the seat post out so I drilled it out. Then I submerged the whole frame in hydrochloric acid in a garbage can. This was winter in the UP so it took several days of smoking. I washed it and coated it with Penetrol, which is chemically alteted linseed oil. It seems to dry over night. I clear coated it with matt clear. That was 4 years ago and it still looks the same. It's one of my 3 maggot bikes as every single piece is something that someone else discarded, including the tires and fender stays. The seat cover is a rubber urinal screen (the only new part because I couldn't find a used one).

 

[RustyGold]

The seat cover is a rubber urinal screen (the only new part because I couldn't find a used one).

...well...I think it was a stroke of very good luck that you didn't find a used one...

Jason

 

[user 26234]

Nice! (Steel-is ideal) Too bad a 1" steel threaded disc fork like that isn't around..

I have a fairly similar segmented disc fork on my other bike, 1 1/8" though and quite a bit longer.

 

[syclesavage]

Love the linseed for sure.

 

[kirkpatrick]

Love the linseed for sure.

Oh yeah, one of the best patinas ever!

 

[Dr. Tankenstein]

That is sweet!


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[us56456712]

...well...I think it was a stroke of very good luck that you didn't find a used one...

Jason

Yeah it was fortunate. The new urnal screen was impregnated with essence of bubble gum. My riding group no longer insists that I ride sweeper, I can now ride with the pack, with the caveat that I ride the Silver Maggot with the bubble gum odor trapper.

 

[user 26234]

I didn’t use blo on the project up there ^ but I did use it on s set of raw steel handlebars yesterday and thought I might share my experience.

Finish on the bars was sort of brushed (sanded) to begin with and has turned out pretty matte. I’ve not tried buffing them up, I might in due time.

I’d been reading a bit on different forums trying to figure out how long to leave it before wiping off and found some posts on a sculpture forum I think it was about heating the metal and then ‘smoking’ the oil off after application.

Everything was a bit vague as to times, temperatures etc so I kind of made it up.

I used my mapp torch to warm the metal to the point that it felt quite warm but I could definitely still touch it and then applied a generous first coat.

This left the metal wet looking, shiny, not dripping though. I then hit it again with the mapp torch. Couldn’t see any ‘smoking’ but it left the surface dry to the touch and matte.

I repeated the process a few times until I was convinced every little nook and cranny had been piled.

By the end the metal had gotten too hot to touch (I held the bars in my vice).

I had read that the process of ‘smoking’ the oil would colour it but I failed to observe any meaningful change in colour.

My bars are now a matte grey colour and are completely dry to the touch, not sticky at all. I got some drops of rain on them yesterday and it kind of beaded up and didn’t leave a mark.