(MBBO Class 1) Hot Purple Valiant!! ( done.. ) )

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Got the clutch linkage working on it this morning and cut/ soldered in some longer cables to fit the bars.

Drove it to carclub this morning instead of the Dart. Got a lot of whipped necks as I brought it in.
A fair number of my gearhead buddys came over and wanted to know everything about it. A couple of them are now looking to engine up their cruizers. Lol.

More bikes show up every week.
 
The springer, with the new 8 1/2 inch tube, doesn't line up on the bolt. Thinking of cutting a keyway thru the top cage and adding a bracket to raise the bolt 1* and hardbolt it to the cage for alighment. Thoughts? Better way?

 
Could bend that top bracket down and use a longer bolt. You'll need either a longer spring too or a spacer.... could maybe take some out of the frame (didn't you take some out already?) but you'd only gain maybe a half inch. Could fab a new top bracket with more drop... but what ever you do had better be bulletproof with a motor pushin' it...

Carl. :android:
 
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Could bend that top bracket down and use a longer bolt. You'll need either a longer spring too or a spacer.... could maybe take some out of the frame (didn't you take some out already?) but you'd only gain maybe a half inch. Could fab a new top bracket with more drop... but what ever you do had better be bulletproof with a motor pushin' it...

Carl. :android:
Thanks Carl,

Slightly flattened head bracket and a 1.5" longer bolt and some dodge 440 valve springs and retainers, put the angles like this.


It would work with the longer bolt and a chrok e spring but not liking the angles too well.

Drew out a relocating bracket. And want to give it a try. I think I mqy like it better, we will see.


And adding it to my list of stainless brackets to make.

Also there are the sissy (move to the back of the seat ) brackets for the tail light attach to.
 
Used the tubing cutter to cut in some lines and then the cutoff wheel to take off a square cut.


Then used a 240 grit flap disc to smooth it out.



Shortened to 6 inches and a little change. At this size, no mods to the spring cage will be needed. I have a seven inch fork tube that will fit perfectly.

Ran out of light. Will use a diamond cut milling bit on the drill tomorrow to ream enuff depth on the top cap for the bearing race to fit in.
 
Looks good.

Idk how heavy you are & how much torque your motor has but that could be interesting.

With my 230# behind on a standard seat on my motorized bike if I was on a slight incline and went to take off the front wheel would lift off the ground if I wasn't careful.

Another good trick is to gear the bike for easy peddle assist for faster acceleration so as not to hold up traffic.
 
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I'm about 200lb. Back before I had a clutch lever on it, pedal starting it would bring the nose up if i was in grass. Never lifted it with the engine alone, yet.

The springer added a little weight to the nose. but I will be moving the sissy back an inch or so, which will change the nose lift again.

When I put the 24" on the nose that will re-distribute a little to the front.

No matter how it ends up, I certain it will be a blast to ride.
 
all I did was put the top bracket in a vise put the bolt in and heated it up and bent it to around 90 degree angle and put it on flipped around,I did this cos I didnt want to cut my frame down
iphone136_zpsa32d6f1b.jpg
 
Don't you just love it when your pets approves your builds? I know my cats love my bikes when they use the saddles as their bathroom, hahaha. Now they're all covered with plastic bags. :)
She's a puppy, a little over 1 1/2 years old, her and the other two love it when I cruise out around the back yard,. Its better than playing ball, to work off the excess puppy energy. I try to race her acrossed the yard, but rarely win.
 

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