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So the bigger button head on the sissy clamp is causing some interference issues with the caliper mount. So I cut and shaved it down.

But it still doesn’t clear. So if I cut any more, it will cut into the original mounting hole.

So I’m going to fill that hole with weld to reinforce the integrity. Not that it would really cause any problem, but if you’ve followed any of my builds you know that I strive to make things look like they were meant to be there. (With varying degrees of success). I’ve decided to paint this piece gloss black to break up all the chrome, so modifications will be fine. You can also see where the pilot hole is for drilling and tapping the bolt that will mate this to the frame.
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Turns out we do have an acetylene torch at work! I mean, it’s a fabrication shop, so why wouldn’t we! So…
Torched the spot where I needed more clearance.

Got it glowing

Set that solid metal bar on it and whacked the bar with a big mallet. Did that on both sides.

And now I’ve got good clearance.

The next part for that area will be some filler to bring back the shape, but that’s later on.
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I knew this tire would have clearance issues at the fender. I ran into the same thing when I put a 24x2.125 tire into my Super Fueler built, where it had 24x1.75 originally.

The answer is that I’ve got to pick the fender up. So you see where the tab hangs down a bit? I’m going to cut off the bit and weld it up higher. I’m also going to fill in that opening on the brace since it’s no longer needed.
Cut the tab completely off, weld in a boss where the hole is, use a chrome fender angled tab to connect fender to boss.

When you say Boss, this is all that comes to mind.

View attachment 266611

I should probably have said threaded insert or rivet nut. Something steel that has threads inside to thread a bolt into to mount your fender.

rivet nut.jpg
threaded insert.jpg

They come in metric or english sizing too.
Sometimes I get excited for small details I know will never get paid attention to, but I focus on them anyway. For instance…

You know the sissy clamps are from a Murray. You may know they were designed for a 3/8” bolt that threads into the frame from the outside. You may remember that I’m going to bolting this on with a nut for additional strength, so the pan head will be inside towards the wheel, and the nut will be outside. And for the best tightening capability, it’s always good to use a washer. I would say most guys would use a 3/8” washer. Makes sense, right? So, there. But…

For me, the overhang a 3/8” washer creates over the edge of the clamp looks sloppy. It highlights that it wasn’t meant to be that way. My attention to detail/OCD/meticulous stupidly… whatever you call it, won’t allow it. So… I had custom washers fabricated. A ridiculous detail NO ONE will ever notice. But there it is.


You're not alone. I frequently take a rattail file to hole of an 'under-sized' washer to achieve the same result.
Same here. Many of the forks I get now have no slot in the threads, so I file down the nub on the headset washer.
Look how much I just wrote about a washer. God help me
As a fellow over-explainer, it's all good. Heck, oftentimes it's fun hearing someone go into detail about something they're passionate about! I wouldn't have known about those custom washers if you hadn't pointed them out, but it's cool to know why they're there.
Back to the front of the bike, for the cross brace to mount the fender, cut a semi-circle into the piece of bar. Then bent a plate that will “hug” the fender. Welded it in and smoothed it out.


Tacked in a mounting bolt

Not pictured: I cut the bolt head off and smoothed it out.

While setting up and testing for fender mounting I realized the high flange hub was causing the spokes to hit the fork legs. So I targeted the area.

Set up for a pounding.

Brought on the rosebud


And beat the edge flat to make some clearance
Beating on the feet moved them and affected how straight the wheel mounted. Not a lot, but enough.

So @kingfish254 I’m glad I showed you my dropout alignment tool for the rear. Now I needed one for the front with a 5/16” axle, so I made another set.I used thick spacer washers I got from work.

Since the front is so much thicker metal we took a torch to it.

Once i aligned the wheel it was time to tack up the fender.


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