Motor Build Round Two

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Ripped bottom tube in half on another up and down the street run today. Nothing I can't fix, I'm going to rebuild the motor mount to tie into the seatpost tube along with the bottom tube to help spread out the load so hopefully that won't happen again.

Dang these problems/setbacks just keep popping up.
 
I know it might be a little late in the game to do the engineering, but this suggestion might help you and maybe others following this build:

For appropriate sized engine mounts, you might consider the "accessory mount bushings" that I'm familiar with because they're used on all my old 4-cyl Volvo engines. These are rubber (also avail as urethane) bushings that take an 8mm or 5/16" stud and fit a 1" hole. They're used on all the 240/740/940 engines to secure all the items on brackets: PS pump, alternator, A/C compressor. They compress to fill the hole and lock in as you tighten a bolt through them. Might work for isolating your engine and they're plenty strong. They run $2 to $9 apiece depending on the source (discount or dealer).

This is what I'm talking about, and they're only $1.75 from these guys (my local FLAPS):

http://www.fcpgroton.com/product-exec/p ... ory_id/176

If you're fabricating mount brackets anyway, these might make sense for you. Hope it helps!

--Rob





hotfoot said:
Ripped bottom tube in half on another up and down the street run today. Nothing I can't fix, I'm going to rebuild the motor mount to tie into the seatpost tube along with the bottom tube to help spread out the load so hopefully that won't happen again.

Dang these problems/setbacks just keep popping up.
 
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The pipe is new, remounted the clutch in a better spot, and currently working on the extra bracing for the motor mount.
 
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Just bolted it back together after adding addition bracing to the motor mount. Was going to run it, but when rebuilding the carb for the umpteenth time I ripped a gasket and it leaks like a sive. Waiting on my car rebuild kit in the mail...

I was thinking about going off the head bolts, but it seems that sense head bolts have to be properly torqued, if you were to put some soft steel between them and the head, you could never torque them properly. It would just continue to squish the steel. Also, this engine was originally made to be mounted off the four bolts on the bottom of it, so I'd rather keep those as the only attachment points.

List of large things left...
-Gas tank
-Lace drum brake into front wheel (finally got my hands on one)
-Find vintage leather seat that fits the bike (proving to be hard)
 
Well bad news first, I leave for school in three days, so I don't think I"m going to be able to make a tank for it until winter break.

But under good news, I got my carb kit for it yesterday, so fixed the carb leaking issue. And the front drum wheel is being laced by my buddy, so should have that soon. Going to be tearing it all apart today for final welding and then paint the frame.
 
As it sits tonight. Did a bunch of work on it today, rebuilt clutch mount again. Think I may have finally nailed it. Two days until I leave for college and this thing has to be done so I can bring it. Should be finishing painting tomorrow morning, and maybe I'll be riding it again tomorrow night.

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Just finished up wiring my headlight and tailight. I took out the old incandescent bulbs and canibalized a couple LED flashlights. It worked great. They're brighter, take less batteries, and last longer. With my limited wiring/soldering experience I think they came out okay. But you still can't beat the glow of an old lightbulb with LEDS...

Think I just put my final coat of paint on, should be able to start re-assembly in a few hours.

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This is a really cool build, don't know how I've never noticed it. The stock tank isn't bad, but a custom one in the frame would be killer. Does the bike feel balanced when riding? Looks like the motor hangs over the right side more, but the drivetrain on the left probably evens it out.
 
I haven't noticed any balance problems, the only problem with the engine hanging over is it's a little bit of a bear to pedal.

Hopefully I'll be able to get started on a custom tank up at school, being in the auto engineering program with free access to a whole metal shop sure is handy sometimes.
 
Well now it's looking a lot better. Just need to put on the taillight and battery box, wire it up, and then...done?

Just took it for a shakedown ride in the rain, rides good but still needs a little fine tuning.

But still, VERY STOKED.

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Sorry bout the bad photos, it's raining outside...
 
Lights! The LEDS are much better, glad I went that route.

Been running it around the neighborhood a lot lately, everything works good, and it even pulls pretty good up hill! Really need to get that front drum brake in it though, as the rear coaster heats up ridiculously hot, but yet somehow stops it. Should be getting the drum brake in a new rim early next week.

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And here is how this whole dang project got started, a loose jumble of parts that I got for free. Bugged a co worker about it for a couple months as it sat in the rain.

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You did a really good job! I hope it holds up for you and doesn't break. You may need to put a tail light on it up under the seat to be even close to street legal. Cops might not totally screw with you if you've got a good visible running tail light just to be seen. I see the one down on the axle but that is totally illegal! Police in most states are really cracking down on motorized bikes and classifying them as motorcycles which require proper lighting, turn signals, a horn, a mirror and registration.

Believe it! I have a friend in Denver who got a ticket for $300 for riding his 1948 Whizzer without a license plate, insurance or working break lights. He has a working head light and a tail light but the cop saw it as a motorcycle not a motorized bike or even a scooter, which are protected and don't require any licensing in CO.

Since he bought the bike from an old friend who inherited it from his grandfather there was no proper vehicle title. When he tried to fight the ticket in court the judge gave him the option of paying the fine or pay to get the vehicle inspected, titled and registered and he would drop the charges. He paid the fine and only rides it around the neighborhood about once a month. It was going to cost him nearly a grand just to get it up to par to pass the inspection for registration. The title fee was another $100 and insurance was going to be about $100 a year. All because Whizzer's engines are over 50cc. It didn't matter that it was built in 1948. It's all about how the court interprets the law. Sad cause that thing really is a blast to ride.

Good luck and I hope this helps. Later Travis
 
Nice ride buddy congrats...Definitely check your states law regarding motorised bicycles the do differ from state to state i have seen From Missouris oober lax laws to New Yorks Cities total ban on motoerised bicyles...
I'm a memeber on motoredbikes.com I here the issues members in USA have quite often, the way things are going i think anyone riding a ICE assisted bicycle in few year will be under intense scrutiny from the Police. The more the governments clamp down on emissions the harder it will be to get little
two strokes to meet the emission guidelines...I went electric myself silence doesn't attract as much attention as a rand-d-de-dang -dang - dang smoking two stroke LoL

All the best have a fun riding it and yes GET A BETTER BRAKE ASAP!!!

KiM
 
psssh! i wouldnt worry about them, unless you've got really strict police. buddy of mine rides his motorized bike to and from work everyday, and has been for 3 years, never been in trouble on that aspect.
 
Well I'm just about to start riding the thing up at college in Bellingham, so I'm just going to wing it and let you know how it goes!
 
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