MattiThundrrr
Rattus All Terrainus
There's a bunch of instructions online for making jewelry from forks... i think I just opened a can of worms
Murray Beach Comber/AMC VII
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So I remembered where I saw clips/clamps like that:
And in digging out of the box of lights and reflectors, I found these too:
Which is good, because the plastic reflectors that I had years ago hacked with a Dremel to fit on the rack were getting on my nerves.
Ahhh, much better.
I also discovered that the P-clips recommended by @Captain Awesome are just about identical to the reflector clamps I had with a slightly different bend. I already had some P-clamps on hand, but they are 3/4" so I will have to dig up a 1" if I want to have 3 mounting points.
And I found a source for a thin sheet of wood for the tank/billboard... this was something like $4 at Michael's.
And in digging out of the box of lights and reflectors, I found these too:
Which is good, because the plastic reflectors that I had years ago hacked with a Dremel to fit on the rack were getting on my nerves.
Ahhh, much better.
I also discovered that the P-clips recommended by @Captain Awesome are just about identical to the reflector clamps I had with a slightly different bend. I already had some P-clamps on hand, but they are 3/4" so I will have to dig up a 1" if I want to have 3 mounting points.
And I found a source for a thin sheet of wood for the tank/billboard... this was something like $4 at Michael's.
I've used strips of thin copper and bent them by hand to fit, then drilled the holes. These went completely around the insert but could just as easily been just enough to bolt up. Any thin metal would be easy to use.
I tend to migrate towards perforated pipe strap to make custom clamps. Sometimes I paint them if a less ratty look is desired. Usually I leave them in the natural galvanized finish. LOL
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I really like the addition of the slim wood panel. Adds a cool, subtle beach element to an already great build.
Thanks! Some credit for the idea goes to Schwinn... I have two Fleets and a Panther and I have always loved the look of the slimline tank.
ok here's a question: anyone have an easy way to integrate a cable guide into a homemade clamp like I'm looking at using here? I'm trying not to have four separate clamps along the top tube...
That fork opens cans? How 'bout bottles?
Get a nail that is the correct diameter of your housing, and 'cold forge' the clamp strap over the nail so it has a groove / tunnel that the housing will slide through once mounted to the frame.
This is your goal....
This is your goal....
Fork darts!
Well this came out better than I expected
I bought a length of this stuff to cut up to put the name on the panel
I bought a length of this stuff to cut up to put the name on the panel
Put 10 miles on it this evening.
Fancy new shifter works great, as does the rest of the bike; the only concern is that I keep having to tighten the seat post clamp just a little more and I don't know how much the bolt will take. I hate these goofy seat post clamps that are welded to the frame and can't be replaced. I also wonder if the rack mount doesn't interfere with getting the seat post tight enough.
Fancy new shifter works great, as does the rest of the bike; the only concern is that I keep having to tighten the seat post clamp just a little more and I don't know how much the bolt will take. I hate these goofy seat post clamps that are welded to the frame and can't be replaced. I also wonder if the rack mount doesn't interfere with getting the seat post tight enough.
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You could try to shim the post. Be careful tightening the seat post bolt as you could damage the frame. I had the same problem on my ‘98 Roadmaster with a similar clamp. I removed it and fitted an early forged Schwinn clamp. Problem sorted.
Hmmm. I have at least a couple of old Schwinn clamps. But I think the Schwinn seat tube is smaller in diameter. I may just experiment to see if the clamp will expand enough to work well…
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There are 2 types of Schwinn clamps. This is the one you want. It is forged unlike the later weak pressed steel clamp. it would need to be the same or very close to the size of the seat mast to work.
Ahhhh. Yeah, that is cool looking, but no, I don't have one. I will have to go through the parts stash and see what I DO have...
I just had a thought....you know how hard it is to get a 'rusted in' seat post out? What about lightly sanding with a fine sand paper the part of the seat post that is inserted, and maybe the first inch or two of the inside of the seat tube. (a smaller diameter seat post, like the Schwinn one wrapped with the sandpaper will be a good tool for this) Then apply a coat of my 'instant rust' solution;
Pour one cup of hydrogen peroxide, two tablespoons of white vinegar, and one teaspoon of table salt into a plastic spray bottle. Vigorously swirl the bottle to mix the contents. Once the salt has dissolved, spray the solution over the object to coat it completely.
If you leave it out in bright sun, it will get rusty immediately, like in 5 mins. The longer you leave it, the rustier it gets. Then with the coat of RusT-ina on both parts, insert the seat post with seat mounted and set it to your proper height. Let it sit as long as possible without riding it, to let the 'rusted' parts imbue into each other.
Remember, this is surface rust, and won't harm the integrity of your post or seat tube.
Of course, I just thought of this, not ever tried it. But the theoretical probability of it working seems strong!
Pour one cup of hydrogen peroxide, two tablespoons of white vinegar, and one teaspoon of table salt into a plastic spray bottle. Vigorously swirl the bottle to mix the contents. Once the salt has dissolved, spray the solution over the object to coat it completely.
If you leave it out in bright sun, it will get rusty immediately, like in 5 mins. The longer you leave it, the rustier it gets. Then with the coat of RusT-ina on both parts, insert the seat post with seat mounted and set it to your proper height. Let it sit as long as possible without riding it, to let the 'rusted' parts imbue into each other.
Remember, this is surface rust, and won't harm the integrity of your post or seat tube.
Of course, I just thought of this, not ever tried it. But the theoretical probability of it working seems strong!
...and I love this ...!
yeah, on our Thursday night rides we get a pretty eclectic mix of bikes. Anything from ballooners to banana seats to BMX and whatever you can imagine in between. This was actually a small turnout with only 5 of us. More often it's 7-10, and there have been times we were close to 20 deep.
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Is tension from the rack loosening the nut while riding? If so, maybe a second nut between the rack and clamp?
But it does look like it's just bending one side of the clamp rather than the whole clamp tightening evenly. Since it's welded, I assume on the front side, I'd try flipping the bolt and spacing it on the left rather than where my arrow is on the right where it's weak from bending. But it seems the same physics, I'm just guessing.
Is the wood panel and polystyrene experiment still in play? Looking forward to seeing how you design it.
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