Murray Beach Comber/AMC VII

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Is tension from the rack loosening the nut while riding? If so, maybe a second nut between the rack and clamp?
View attachment 241029
But it does look like it's just bending one side of the clamp rather than the whole clamp tightening evenly. Since it's welded, I assume on the front side, I'd try spacing it on the left rather than where my arrow is on the right? But it seems the same physics, I'm just guessing.

Is the wood panel and polystyrene experiment still in play? Looking forward to seeing how you design it.
Seat clamp nut has to be on the inside of the rack stay mount. That's likely the problem. Clamp the seat post only with that seat post bolt or it will continue to slip.

Maybe get a clamp to mount on the seat post above the frame clamp, and bolt the rack stays to that? There are many variations, get the smallest one that fits your seat post diameter, you will still likely have to shim it.

rack mounts.jpg
 
Seat clamp nut has to be on the inside of the rack stay mount. That's likely the problem. Clamp the seat post only with that seat post bolt or it will continue to slip.

Maybe get a clamp to mount on the seat post above the frame clamp, and bolt the rack stays to that? There are many variations, get the smallest one that fits your seat post diameter, you will still likely have to shim it.

View attachment 241038

WOW. I had no idea you could get a seat post clamp with rack mounts that hang off it like that. Very cool idea. If I can get the welded-on clamp off the frame without too much trouble, I might just look into that. Otherwise maybe I can just put a clamp on the post above the frame like you suggested. Actually, I think an old small-diameter Schwinn clamp just might work for that.
 
Is tension from the rack loosening the nut while riding? If so, maybe a second nut between the rack and clamp?
View attachment 241029
But it does look like it's just bending one side of the clamp rather than the whole clamp tightening evenly. Since it's welded, I assume on the front side, I'd try flipping the bolt and spacing it on the left rather than where my arrow is on the right where it's weak from bending. But it seems the same physics, I'm just guessing.

I'm sure you are correct about the rack playing into the seatpost clamp not staying tight enough. I should probably find the same hardware that Murray originally used to mount a rack to a seat post clamp like that, which in my (admittedly limited) experience has usually involved a nut with a shoulder like this that can't easily be found at your local hardware store:
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I can remember being a kid and screwing up seat post clamps and bolts on cheap bikes like this on more than one occasion. It would go like this: the correct bolt and nut were missing, I'd find something in Dad's Magical Bolt Bucket that fit in the hole, and I'd wonder why the bolt bent in the middle and/or the nut rounded off when I tried to tighten it enough. (This also may have been attributed in part to using the wrong diameter seat post, but I digress.) Now I understand better what has to be clamped and how force has to be applied evenly. I just have to find appropriate hardware. I can't flip the bolt around as you suggest because one side of the clamp has a square hole and the bolt I'm using has a square shoulder under the head that just reaches through the rack into that square hole. Not exactly this setup, but similar:
IMG_2767.JPG


If I'm going to use the existing clamp, I should probably get a regular bolt and space it away from the clamp so the head/washer isn't hitting it unevenly, if that makes sense. I even considered getting a length of threaded rod or a bolt like is used in some seat guts that threads at both ends, then using it to secure just the seat post clamp with two nuts, then putting the rack stays on the outside of those nuts and securing them with two more nuts. Or I may look into alternate clamps with divorced rack mounts as @OddJob suggested above.

Is the wood panel and polystyrene experiment still in play? Looking forward to seeing how you design it.

Yes it absolutely is. I picked away at the wood panel this morning. It's not perfect, but I think I'm going with it the way it is. I tried to massage the upper curve and lower straight edge with a palm sander, which is the wrong tool, which is what happens every time I work with wood. I can envision the kind of table mounted sander I want to use to just barely skim away at the last couple of spots that aren't perfect, but I'm thinking I should quit while I'm close before I screw it up.
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I have some stain downstairs that I'm going to use on the wood. I'm still deciding on a color for the polystyrene. I don't think I want it to be white; I'm envisioning the light tan wood color used for the edging on woodie wagons, whether the "wood" was actually wood or Di-Noc. I'm envisioning a color scheme something like one of these:
1967-ford-country-squire-woody-wagon.jpg
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And since you asked, I've been trying to decide on a font for the name Beachcomber. I mocked up pictures in about a bajillion fonts, and I'm down to a couple I really like.

I have always liked this one, which is called Air Conditioner, but the problem is that it's VERY wide. If I want to keep the nameplate down to about half the length of the wood insert, the font will have to be about 1/2 inch tall.
closeup billboard AC bold italic (2).jpg


My wife picked this one, which is called Donatello. It's growing on me. Kinda reminds me of the Coca-Cola font.
closeup billboard donatello (2).jpg


I can stretch Donatello to make it wider and fill the nameplate and it'll still look good, whereas if I squish Air Conditioner to make it narrower (so I can keep the height) it kinda loses something. I think a big part of the draw of Air Conditioner is the width. Side note: I have used it with a couple of modifications to make a reasonable facsimile of the old Schwinn font.
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More shakedown today! Took the bike to Frederick, MD and watched a penny-farthing race. Amazing stuff.
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Also rode about 5 miles around downtown Frederick between and after races. But Frederick is an hour from home by car, which leads us to today's tangent: Anybody else get freaked out when you have to carry a bike on a rack?
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I got this rack off Facebook Marketplace. Now, I used it today and it held up fine, but I am taking a long trip with a bike in a couple of weeks and I arranged to borrow a friend's Swagman XTC-2, which is similar to mine but has some features that mine does not.

What do you all use for racks?
 
which leads us to today's tangent: Anybody else get freaked out when you have to carry a bike on a rack?
Heck yeah! There are no bike routes through Staten Island and the only options are ferry and bus rack. Once a year I muster the nerve but never follow through for fear of loosening parts or worse. I'd like to know if this is an unfounded fear. What are your results? Should I continue to fear bus bike racks?

BTW, hot Impala hangin around in the background. Thought it was late 70s Nova at first. What year is it?
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Anybody else get freaked out when you have to carry a bike on a rack?
Yes I do. I'm putting 4 on a rack on the back of my camper and hauling them a couple of hours into the wilds. I've caught a wheel on the ground before, due to departure angles. I'm completely paranoid about them all the time. And it's one of those racks that clamps them firmly by the top tube, which has caused some scratching in the past. Not happy with the equipment, but not happy to shell out $500 for the style that holds them by the wheels either
 
I use the one from Walmart, and believe me it didn't cost $500! I have hauled old school cruiser bikes and even my heavier e-bike on it without issue. But then I have only carried one bike at a time with it. Not sure how it would work with a full load of two bikes.
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Anybody else get freaked out when you have to carry a bike on a rack?

What do you all use for racks?

I used to but now I’m more relaxed. I have an old transit flatbed 4 bike rack that I bought at a swap me over a decade ago. The first thing I did was replace all the hardware and make sure that everything has locking nuts and safety wire or tethers. Also helps that I run tiedowns from the hitch point out to the outriggers to help stabilize it, and also an extra level of security to keep anything from coming off.

Probably put 10k miles on that rack so far
 
Heck yeah! There are no bike routes through Staten Island and the only options are ferry and bus rack. Once a year I muster the nerve but never follow through for fear of loosening parts or worse. I'd like to know if this is an unfounded fear. What are your results? Should I continue to fear bus bike racks?

Bus bike racks, wow. I was aware of their existence but never gave them much thought till I read your post. I looked them up and found this video:



Are the bus racks in Staten Island similar to that one? I wouldn't hesitate to put a beater bike on one, but something I put time and effort into, well yeah there's gonna be some trepidation. That rack looked fairly solid, though. Also, I assume you wouldn't be going very far or fast on a bus trip with a bike, so I'd figure there's less chance of it shaking loose or parts loosening up. I'm always freaked out about stuff loosening up and falling off the bike when it's on a rack, but we recently took a 5 hour trip to the beach with my 1968 Fastback hanging off the back of my friend's VW Touareg on a good quality rack, and the bike made the trip just fine both ways. I will be making the same trip again soon and borrowing a good rack.

Staten Island, oof. I grew up on LI and married a girl from Brooklyn, then we relocated to semirural PA. My experience with Staten Island is limited to visiting college friends and passing through on the way from PA to Suffolk County. From what I recall, the parts I saw weren't very bike-friendly. Are there places near you to ride, or do you wind up hauling the bike somewhere else to get a good ride in? I generally end up bringing the bike in our beater minivan to meet friends in other nearby places with flat terrain and wide streets.

BTW, hot Impala hangin around in the background. Thought it was late 70s Nova at first. What year is it?
View attachment 241212

Thanks! That's a '65. Not an SS, just a base Grandma-grade 2-door with 283, 2-barrel carb, and 2-speed Powerglide automatic.
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Yes I do. I'm putting 4 on a rack on the back of my camper and hauling them a couple of hours into the wilds. I've caught a wheel on the ground before, due to departure angles. I'm completely paranoid about them all the time. And it's one of those racks that clamps them firmly by the top tube, which has caused some scratching in the past. Not happy with the equipment, but not happy to shell out $500 for the style that holds them by the wheels either

Augh, out into the woods. Yeah that'd make me anxious too. As it is, every time I hit a bump or negotiate a curve I check the mirror to see how much the bike is swaying. Regarding departure angles, I did cross a couple of driveway aprons that made me worry a little about how far the rack hangs off the back of my monster Mercury. Can't imagine off-roading with a bike rack, especially a big one.

A friend of a friend has one that holds 4 bikes by the wheels, and you are correct: they are NOT cheap. If I like this 2-bike Swagman I'm borrowing, I think I will shell out the $130 or so for one for myself.

I use the one from Walmart, and believe me it didn't cost $500! I have hauled old school cruiser bikes and even my heavier e-bike on it without issue. But then I have only carried one bike at a time with it. Not sure how it would work with a full load of two bikes.
View attachment 241216

I really like that yours has those notches up the center post for the hooks to lock into. That's one of the features mine is missing that keeps me from having much faith in it long-term.

I used to but now I’m more relaxed. I have an old transit flatbed 4 bike rack that I bought at a swap me over a decade ago. The first thing I did was replace all the hardware and make sure that everything has locking nuts and safety wire or tethers. Also helps that I run tiedowns from the hitch point out to the outriggers to help stabilize it, and also an extra level of security to keep anything from coming off.

Probably put 10k miles on that rack so far

Hearing stuff like this make me feel better about getting a good rack and learning to use it and not worrying so much about losing stuff...
 
Well, between @Captain Awesome 's suggestion to use P-clamps:
Pipe hanger brackets

Clamps

Can use with or without the rubber strap

And @OddJob 's suggestion to "cold forge" the tunnels for the cables:
Get a nail that is the correct diameter of your housing, and 'cold forge' the clamp strap over the nail so it has a groove / tunnel that the housing will slide through once mounted to the frame.

This is your goal....

View attachment 240527

I have a working set of clamps to mount the tank panel. Not gonna lie, I never would have thought to do that on my own; thanks for the inspiration.

First I hose-clamped a bolt about the thickness of the cable housing to the end of a 1-inch diameter seatpost:
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Then I twisted the P-clamps with pliers to get them near where they needed to be:
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Then tested and fitted and pried and pressed et voila:
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here's a pic against a darker background so you can see the panel better:
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time for stain!
 
Augh, out into the woods. Yeah that'd make me anxious too. As it is, every time I hit a bump or negotiate a curve I check the mirror to see how much the bike is swaying. Regarding departure angles, I did cross a couple of driveway aprons that made me worry a little about how far the rack hangs off the back of my monster Mercury. Can't imagine off-roading with a bike rack, especially a big one.

A friend of a friend has one that holds 4 bikes by the wheels, and you are correct: they are NOT cheap. If I like this 2-bike Swagman I'm borrowing, I think I will shell out the $130 or so for one for myself.



I really like that yours has those notches up the center post for the hooks to lock into. That's one of the features mine is missing that keeps me from having much faith in it long-term.



Hearing stuff like this make me feel better about getting a good rack and learning to use it and not worrying so much about losing stuff...
Mine has the same basic ratcheting top bar holds like the one @handyandy1100 has. They work well. I do use felt around the more delicate paint jobs but you can really crank them down

Tying the rack in via the tie downs like outriggers making a triangle really improved the retention and ride. Keeps it from swaying and adds extra piece of mind
 
Just to get an idea for spacing:
IMG_2785.JPG


Now I am second guessing myself. Maybe I should stain the wood and then just paint the name right over the stain without the little panel, kinda like this Trek Woody I saw at the penny farthing race in Frederick yesterday. Never heard of it before, I had to Google it.
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woody.jpg
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Just to get an idea for spacing:
View attachment 241258

Now I am second guessing myself. Maybe I should stain the wood and then just paint the name right over the stain without the little panel, kinda like this Trek Woody I saw at the penny farthing race in Frederick yesterday. Never heard of it before, I had to Google it.
View attachment 241265View attachment 241267View attachment 241266
I agree. Stain, paint lettering on the wood, then paint an outline around the lettering (or paint a bubble silhouette of lettering first, then lettering over top).
 
getting ideas...
IMG_2597billboard donatello noplate.jpg


non-drive side. ignore the left hand cranks and mirror guard lol.
IMG_2597billboard donatello noplate nondrive (3).jpg
 
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MinWax makes a "Weathered Oak" stain. It gives off a 'driftwood' vibe, and blue lettering would really pop on it!

Used it on all the wood parts of Shelby Flyer Woody.

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I think the 'B' should be in front of the forward mounting bolt, with the rest of the word running beneath the mount. I see you trying to center it on the tank, but it will look more balanced centered in the main body of the panel (before it curves. You'll see this on any tank made for a cantilevered frame (check Schwinn tanks).

Like so (center over white line)...

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Lots of cool touches here. Just caught up so I'm behind on commenting but the stenciled graphics are spot on! I'll probably be using that technique in the future! :cool:

Here's a tip that might save you some grief when you letter the wood insert:
Unlike painted metal, wood has a lot of small peaks and valleys in the grain that will wick the paint under your stencil. I'm assuming that you will be applying some type of clear varnish to the wood after you stain it. To get a clean edge on your graphics, lay down your vinyl stencil and then paint a thin coat with the same varnish so that it wicks under the stencil first. You could even wipe it off after it is applied. After that dries enough do your sponge color over the stencil as usual and peal the mask. You should end up with a clean edge. As always, test this method first on a scrap piece of material to learn how to do it best.

Oh, and I like the Air Conditioner font best!
 
@BobbyStillz , I think you're right. And it looks like I might take @The Renaissance Man 's advice on using Air Conditioner, which will look like this:
IMG_2597billboard AC ltwood.jpg
IMG_2597billboard AC ltwood (2).jpg


In that case, the low height of the font works to my advantage because it fits under that mounting bolt, and then I can center the name on the wide part of the tank with the flat bottom.

And @The Renaissance Man , thanks for the tip on the varnish! I knew that might happen with the grain in the wood and I was wondering how to avoid it...
 
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