Cool, another good song. Thanks Lee.
I heard post or two of you playing on FlakeBook before I quit it. I recall one I saw was a big BBQ or block party that you guys played.
Off-Roadster (ORBO)
- Thread starter metalchewy
- Start date
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Cool, another good song. Thanks Lee.
I heard post or two of you playing on FlakeBook before I quit it. I recall one I saw was a big BBQ or block party that you guys played.
Well, I took the fork apart this morning.
The elastomers that I put in a few years back still look good.
It looks like hard clear glue, almost like superglue was used to hold the tubes in.
A few hard Jars or whacks with a rock and I can see how they would release. 27 year glue. Thinking of jBWelding it back together. Or get some clear epoxy.
The elastomers that I put in a few years back still look good.
It looks like hard clear glue, almost like superglue was used to hold the tubes in.
A few hard Jars or whacks with a rock and I can see how they would release. 27 year glue. Thinking of jBWelding it back together. Or get some clear epoxy.
Marinetex is well worth the money over JB weld
Well, I took the fork apart this morning.
View attachment 177304
The elastomers that I put in a few years back still look good.
View attachment 177303
It looks like hard clear glue, almost like superglue was used to hold the tubes in.
View attachment 177305
A few hard Jars or whacks with a rock and I can see how they would release. 27 year glue. Thinking of jBWelding it back together. Or get some clear epoxy.
[/QUOTE
Great Fork, ready to hit the dirt!
Sounds like you've got a pretty sweet klunker in the works! I can't wait to see the end result!
I've never used it but am willing to give it a go if I can find it here.
Quote: Great Fork, ready to hit the dirt!
Hopefully within the next week or two it will be a roller.
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Cut the bosses out of the picture at lunch.
Will have to clean up my nicks when I take the dremel to it later.
Hopefully within the next week or two it will be a roller.
Thanks.
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Cut the bosses out of the picture at lunch.
Will have to clean up my nicks when I take the dremel to it later.
So far so good. Got things epoxied together. Have some sanding and paint touches left for the fork. Shortening the tube to match the frame, and then cutting the threads in.
Still have to crank down the elastomer to get the suspension pre-set, but not planning to do that until it is mounted to the frame. I should see it next week sometime.
The fork now fits those 57mm wheels I mentioned earlier. 2 Speed KT2 kickback on the back one. Fast and light.
Not much klunk, but bombers usually don't klunk, they skid. Need a shifter to klunk.
Still have to crank down the elastomer to get the suspension pre-set, but not planning to do that until it is mounted to the frame. I should see it next week sometime.
The fork now fits those 57mm wheels I mentioned earlier. 2 Speed KT2 kickback on the back one. Fast and light.
Not much klunk, but bombers usually don't klunk, they skid. Need a shifter to klunk.
I got a decent deal on this scratched, one tooth mushroomed, Profile Fan Blade.
Odd numbers of teeth make the sprocket wear evenly. 47T is Big. Back sprocket is 22, big as well.
Sealed bearing for the rides thru the creeks and rivers, will help ensure longevity.
And 4130 BMX cranks at 175mm should round out the front drive train for strength.
Odd numbers of teeth make the sprocket wear evenly. 47T is Big. Back sprocket is 22, big as well.
Sealed bearing for the rides thru the creeks and rivers, will help ensure longevity.
And 4130 BMX cranks at 175mm should round out the front drive train for strength.
Now this is a build. Superb parts selection, can't wait to see more.
Thank You Indyjps. I will be putting many miles on this bike after it is built in the washes, on the mountain and sometimes even downtown Las Vegas.
New school wheels meets high quality mid to old school parts on a really old school frame.
Spent a some time adding some details to the chainwheel. I figure it will tie front to back.
Add Blue metalcast paint.
Clean it up for the fine details.
Compared to the wheels they are close. These Square Bears are a little darker.
Once it's all together and in the sun, most won't notice the difference...
Add Blue metalcast paint.
Clean it up for the fine details.
Compared to the wheels they are close. These Square Bears are a little darker.
Once it's all together and in the sun, most won't notice the difference...
The first one of these profile rings that I saw, had the fan painted red and it was on a Redline.
Also, I panted the bottom-side of a triple tree Mopar Red on one of my builds. It Turned out well. I've put red on a number of other builds. Back of a chain guard, underside of fenders, back sprocket each not matching any color on the build.
Been contemplating a spot on this one. We'll see.
Sitting here this morning wondering why my frame went from CA to Phoenix instead lf Vegas. Ah well it will be here Monday or Tuesday. Weird route to me.
Been digging up some old pics of my last Double Bar off road bike. Rusty old frame that almost gives you tetanus looking at it. I had cleaned some of the scale off down to paint, and painted the wheels denim.
That winter, I was having bottom bracket problems with another off road bike
So I swapped all the components onto the double bar.
Early spring I added CR250 bars I picked up for $15 at the swap meet
That spring, coming off a small bump, I wouldn't even call it a bump, the seat tube broke from the bottom bracket. Ended up stretching it for the repair
Swapped iall off road components back to the rollfast frame and gave that to my best friend for his birthday.. He and I grew up as best friends 40 years ago. Still best of friends today. That bike as it sits now.
This year's frame is also a road master double bar. Can't wait to get my hands on it.
Fingers crossed for Monday...
Been digging up some old pics of my last Double Bar off road bike. Rusty old frame that almost gives you tetanus looking at it. I had cleaned some of the scale off down to paint, and painted the wheels denim.
That winter, I was having bottom bracket problems with another off road bike
So I swapped all the components onto the double bar.
Early spring I added CR250 bars I picked up for $15 at the swap meet
That spring, coming off a small bump, I wouldn't even call it a bump, the seat tube broke from the bottom bracket. Ended up stretching it for the repair
Swapped iall off road components back to the rollfast frame and gave that to my best friend for his birthday.. He and I grew up as best friends 40 years ago. Still best of friends today. That bike as it sits now.
This year's frame is also a road master double bar. Can't wait to get my hands on it.
Fingers crossed for Monday...
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MattiThundrrr
Rattus All Terrainus
Great bike history. Thanks for sharing
Funny. The frame Left Phoenix at 4am and arrived here about 11, while I was out to the grocery store.
Frame came with a fork and goodies for a future build.
Thank You again @LarzBahrs
I put together the first mockup.
A lot of work left to ride. Make sure headset cups fit, make sure bottom bracket bearings work,, find a seatpost, Paint, cut in the half link, trim and thread the fork.
Puppy didn't seem impressed...
Frame came with a fork and goodies for a future build.
Thank You again @LarzBahrs
I put together the first mockup.
A lot of work left to ride. Make sure headset cups fit, make sure bottom bracket bearings work,, find a seatpost, Paint, cut in the half link, trim and thread the fork.
Puppy didn't seem impressed...
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So, I found an old 1-1/8 threaded headset. Thought it should fit.
Then I went to removing the old races from the frame. Three came out with a single whack of the rubber mallet, bouncing across the yard. I had to get a hammer for the 2nd BB race. It needed some solid attention to release....
Bottom bracket bearings almost almost perfectly. They could be 1 or 2 hundreths of an inch larger and they would be fine.
Big issue with the 1-1/8 Head tube races, tjey are 3 to 4 hundreths of an inch too large. Will come up with a plan today on how to handle that... 1.28" to 1.31"
Then I went to removing the old races from the frame. Three came out with a single whack of the rubber mallet, bouncing across the yard. I had to get a hammer for the 2nd BB race. It needed some solid attention to release....
Bottom bracket bearings almost almost perfectly. They could be 1 or 2 hundreths of an inch larger and they would be fine.
Big issue with the 1-1/8 Head tube races, tjey are 3 to 4 hundreths of an inch too large. Will come up with a plan today on how to handle that... 1.28" to 1.31"
Idea #1.
Clearances aren't that far off. Ream it.
When I rebuilt the 273 in the Dart, the lifter bores weren't polished by the machine shop, and when I called them, they said I could do it easily with a drum brake cylinder honer. Or I could bring it back to them and they would do a similar procedure.
I went thru 2 of them because the stones break. This one, only the inside stone broke on one.
So the thought is to use one of the broken bore stones to take 0.03" off. Limited the expansion with the old cone.
Just took the paint after about 15 minutes with no noticeable reaming.
Step 2. Starting now. Add emery cloth instead of using the stones. Repeat until fit. Eta, unknown...
Clearances aren't that far off. Ream it.
When I rebuilt the 273 in the Dart, the lifter bores weren't polished by the machine shop, and when I called them, they said I could do it easily with a drum brake cylinder honer. Or I could bring it back to them and they would do a similar procedure.
I went thru 2 of them because the stones break. This one, only the inside stone broke on one.
So the thought is to use one of the broken bore stones to take 0.03" off. Limited the expansion with the old cone.
Just took the paint after about 15 minutes with no noticeable reaming.
Step 2. Starting now. Add emery cloth instead of using the stones. Repeat until fit. Eta, unknown...
