I like #3 on the tank...and either A or B on the theme 
Pilot . P-40 Warhawk
- Thread starter SkyknightJohn
- Start date
Help Support Rat Rod Bikes Bicycle Forum:
Part of my forming a wood tank insert for my build this year was the thought of using it as a buck for either a fiberglass mold or sheet metal construction. I didn't end up using it, but like both of the ideas.
I think painted with graphics would be cool. I like the two older school themed paint jobs options. Depends on the rest of your color combos.
If you want to go 'most work', I'd be really curious how the buck / sheet metal idea pans out (sheet metal pun intended).
It's funny how trends go with these build offs. This year, we have a bunch of builders making their own tanks / tank inserts using a variety of materials in different ways. Always keeps it interesting!
I think painted with graphics would be cool. I like the two older school themed paint jobs options. Depends on the rest of your color combos.
If you want to go 'most work', I'd be really curious how the buck / sheet metal idea pans out (sheet metal pun intended).
It's funny how trends go with these build offs. This year, we have a bunch of builders making their own tanks / tank inserts using a variety of materials in different ways. Always keeps it interesting!
It just keeps getting better 'n' better. Nice work!
If you want to go 'most work', I'd be really curious how the buck / sheet metal idea pans out (sheet metal pun intended).
Here’s the thread I found from 2009 member Ratfink1962 that shows the method I would use.
http://ratrodbikes.com/forum/index.php?threads/how-to-build-a-sheetmetal-tank.17968/
Worried I’d damage the underlying wood too much to re-use if the sheet metal didn’t work out. Too hot right now and the foreseeable future for too much extra work.
We have been seeing triple digits for two weeks now .
We’ve not had Florida heat, but close. Mid 90’s with all the humidity from our super wet midwestern spring. I have a garage. Opening it just seems to make it hotter (and the house) but closed is just stifling, even with a fan. I guess I’m better off than those trying to ‘make it in the shade.’
Received new handlebars today. Give me the rise I need, not sure of the look now that they’re on. I’ll mess around with them, try different stems, etc. to see if they grow on me.
Also beginning to wonder if I really need a layback post, or if a straight on would be fine. Neverending battle. Maybe I’m just hot and disgruntled...
Also beginning to wonder if I really need a layback post, or if a straight on would be fine. Neverending battle. Maybe I’m just hot and disgruntled...
The Renaissance Man
__CERTIFIED DIVER__ (Open Water & Open Dumpster)
Staff member
Moderator
Pro Member
Metal tank! Let's see some metal fab!
Really like that last front end photo for some reason. Very stealth....
On the road, so only my ham-fingered forgot-my-mouse GIMP mockup thoughts to post. Just trying to get the visuals, ya know...
"Proper scale" teeth/eye with exhaust manifold along top tube...
"Scaled to fit" teeth/eye. (could still do faux mainfold)
"Proper scale" teeth/eye with exhaust manifold along top tube...
"Scaled to fit" teeth/eye. (could still do faux mainfold)
Manifold would look great!
So, I ground out the truss rod mount to fit the 1-1/8” steerer tube. They made steel tough back in 1950. You wouldn’t think removing 1/16” all around would take so much time!
(Actually, I imagine most of you do know!)
Still to drill the lower mounts to fit the rack mounts on this fork. Due to the axle mounting point config, they won’t fit there. Luckily this Surly fork has a-plenty of mounting points!
To contrast the 1950’s steel toughness, here’s two words (a picture is worth a thousand) about Cane Creek hi-tech polymer headset caps:
Fortunately, I had a spare in the parts bin.
(Actually, I imagine most of you do know!)
Still to drill the lower mounts to fit the rack mounts on this fork. Due to the axle mounting point config, they won’t fit there. Luckily this Surly fork has a-plenty of mounting points!
To contrast the 1950’s steel toughness, here’s two words (a picture is worth a thousand) about Cane Creek hi-tech polymer headset caps:
Fortunately, I had a spare in the parts bin.
In a rare moment of brilliance, due to a good night's rest and fresh coffee, I realized if I just moved the truss rod mount higher up in the headset stack I wouldn't need to drill any new holes. So, that's done. 
The Renaissance Man
__CERTIFIED DIVER__ (Open Water & Open Dumpster)
Staff member
Moderator
Pro Member
The process:
Traced the outline + 1-1/2”
Made the notches for good folding.
Transferred to the 22ga. sheet.
With the help if a few friends I sort-of have half a tank.
The metal hammer actually works better, but leaves a few marks. I ended up using pliers as a brake to make the bends come all the way to 90 degrees, as hammering with the block in place didn’t quite do it.
I’m not entirely happy with it. The joins are not pretty, and the corners are a touch to big to fit in the bike. I can probably hammer/grind them in.
If I do it again, which I might start over, I’d leave less overlap, say just a 1/2”, just enough to form the bend around the edge then make the top/bottom/front from flat sheet.
For the amount of work, a wood block, sanded, filled, painted, still seems easier.
Traced the outline + 1-1/2”
Made the notches for good folding.
Transferred to the 22ga. sheet.
With the help if a few friends I sort-of have half a tank.
The metal hammer actually works better, but leaves a few marks. I ended up using pliers as a brake to make the bends come all the way to 90 degrees, as hammering with the block in place didn’t quite do it.
I’m not entirely happy with it. The joins are not pretty, and the corners are a touch to big to fit in the bike. I can probably hammer/grind them in.
If I do it again, which I might start over, I’d leave less overlap, say just a 1/2”, just enough to form the bend around the edge then make the top/bottom/front from flat sheet.
For the amount of work, a wood block, sanded, filled, painted, still seems easier.
Your 1/2 overlap with a top and bottom sheet to cover sounds like a winner! Then you just have one long seam to deal with on each edge. I would think a JB Weld type of adhesive would work really well with that. Apply , clamp, viola'!
That's all I used to mount my pretty heavy flames in the tank area of Trans-RaT and they are holding up well, after many miles of bumpy road and bike path.
That's all I used to mount my pretty heavy flames in the tank area of Trans-RaT and they are holding up well, after many miles of bumpy road and bike path.
Take Two with just a 1/2” overlap.
Developed a slight bend through the process.
Bet looks good.
Proof in the pudding.
Now I just have to make the other half, and remember to make it THE OTHER SIDE. And maybe figure out where that little ping toward the rear came from and how to fix it...
Developed a slight bend through the process.
Bet looks good.
Proof in the pudding.
Now I just have to make the other half, and remember to make it THE OTHER SIDE. And maybe figure out where that little ping toward the rear came from and how to fix it...
The Renaissance Man
__CERTIFIED DIVER__ (Open Water & Open Dumpster)
Staff member
Moderator
Pro Member
Good fit!
Now I just have to make the other half, and remember to make it THE OTHER SIDE. And maybe figure out where that little ping toward the rear came from and how to fix it...
It most probably comes from the excess material in the last part of the fold (it looks almost straight, but there is still a little curve on the last bit towards the pointy end), so another releave cut in half of the last uncut bit you folded should do the job.
Or if in doubt ask sheet-metal-pro @David Cooksey for advise, he must know.
