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Both pairs of truss rods I have here are 5/16-24 but they probably varied from mfgr and age...

True value and Ace have the bolt bins, a bit easier to match up a nut if they are loose.

Good work on that fork thread, those can be pains. [emoji106] [emoji165]
 
I just picked up a Shelby with a Shock Ease. It springs but looks like it stretched forward when at rest. I may have totighten the spring or something on the inside. Yours looks great on that frame.
 
I just picked up a Shelby with a Shock Ease. It springs but looks like it stretched forward when at rest. I may have totighten the spring or something on the inside. Yours looks great on that frame.
Thanks, this one has an interesting action to it. The whole fork under the head tube flexes forward, I need to see if I can stiffen it up some.
I think if I tighten the nut in the bottom if the steer tube it might do the trick.
 
using a tree as a tool, thats the true mark of a RATROD mechanic I love it.
 
The Shockease fork is great because it has a preload adjustment (the 1/2" nut under the fork crown). If it splays out too much under your weight, tighten the nut up, which compresses the spring preload. You may have to get a 1/2" socket on the top of the bolt in the steer tube if the threaded shaft rotates on the bottom when trying to tighten the lower nut...:thumbsup:
 
The Shockease fork is great because it has a preload adjustment (the 1/2" nut under the fork crown). If it splays out too much under your weight, tighten the nut up, which compresses the spring preload. You may have to get a 1/2" socket on the top of the bolt in the steer tube if the threaded shaft rotates on the bottom when trying to tighten the lower nut...:thumbsup:
Thanks, I figured that might be the way.
 
I'll have to cut more threads in the trusses and cut them down too.

Now can anyone tell me how to determine thread count/pitch on the truss rods, wanna make sure I use the right die.

Sent from my LGL34C using Tapatalk

I just did the same exact thing to a Shockease fork. The truss rods are 3/8 x 24 tpi.
-B.J.-
 
And it would figure, I don't have a 3/8x24 die in my set.
 
And it would figure, I don't have a 3/8x24 die in my set.
c7f7b591204863195a1f4132fd15174d.jpg


I think I paid $20 at harbour freight, they replaced it once because I broke a few..
 
c7f7b591204863195a1f4132fd15174d.jpg


I think I paid $20 at harbour freight, they replaced it once because I broke a few..
Not a bad deal, harbour freight only about 30 miles away.
 
Ok folks, want to get your opinions on this. I'm trying to decide if I should do a rear fender or not.
I have almost everything on the bike to get a better feel for it.
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Sent from my LGL34C using Tapatalk
 
I like it, it has a hot rod look! It looks pretty good in that position too.
 
Thanks guys, I actually bought a fender set for this frame a couple years ago. They don't fit, but I thought cutting down the front fender and putting it on back would look good.
Y'all just confirmed that for me.
 
Well, I got the fender cut and mounted. Added grips, greased bearings, and got the chain broke.


Oh, I almost forgot. She's a rider.
b2e0b4de64f1e27902e38a46fe33b1b8.jpg


The seat position is pretty well perfect for me, even with the bars upside down. And the 24-10 gear ratio makes it easy to pedal.


It's not complete yet, but far enough I can start the other part of the build.

1f8857d01f19e4e65cbe54a7787810e6.jpg


Sent from my LGL34C using Tapatalk
 
Wasn't wild about the fender in the first pics there but it looks great in the runner pic. Alignment is everything with the fenders. Look forrward to seeing what you've got planned for the trailer.
 

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