- Joined
- Sep 17, 2013
- Messages
- 4,290
- Reaction score
- 9,465
I've mixed other acids and had a residue form that I couldn't get off, either green or yellow depending on what I mixed. I've used feed store grade molasses and it works so slow that a big pad of mold formed on the surface of the soaking bucket. In theory it sounds like it should work. I would try it on something first. Years ago I restored a 1948 Buick and I used a pre paint compound to treat any surface rust that sanding didn't get. It was dilute muriatic acid from the auto paint store. Personally I would clean it as well as possible and then put several coats of Ospho on it before paint. This is a commercial grade pre paint treatment for steel before paint. It is concentrated phosphoric acid and it turns rust into a nice black iron phosphate. Ospho is cheaper than other stuff and is like water so it penetrates. I use several coats of Ospho and then coat the surface with 2 coats of Penetrol drying oil, which is used on boats to prevent rust. Then after the Penetrol dries I paint. I don't think an etching primer is necessary as the Ospho has already etched it. I've only done this to bike parts and frames, never on anything bigger.Off topic project. Working on derusting the frame on a truck, not taking the truck apart. Im considering citric acid mixed into molasses. Both will derust, i want to use the molasses to get it to cling and stay wet long enough to do some work.
Considering using a 1 gallon garden sprayer, thin the molasses just enough to get it to spray, not sure on amount of citric acid to mix in.
It'll all get power washed after, dont mind several applications. Trying to avoid grinder, wire brush work under a vehicle...what a horrible day.
Anyone mixed citric acid with molasses or have ideas to get it to stick and stay wet, theres some info on using wall paper paste powder but i think it will dry out too fast.