Fv2
Don't know what I'm doing, gonna do it anyway.
That's pretty awesome.
MBBO Savage B.O.B.
- Thread starter CRASH
- Start date
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WOW!!!
x1000.
Don't think I'd cut that thin slotted tab. Would loose a lot of strength. One way would be to drill/tap the for for an allen bolt with a head that fits snugly into the slotted tab on the brake? Then you could just file the other end off flush.
I think those brakes are normally mounted with the lever and cable towards the bottom. You'd end up with the cable on the drive side if you did that. Reason I mention that is I've had one of these brakes lock horribly when oriented the wrong way. May have been something else wrong with it but might be worth checking that it operates smoothly in that orientation. When I had the drum brake lock on me it folded the fork and threw me over the handlebars and I was just checking it in the driveway. It worked fine when I flipped the wheel around the other way.
I'm not sure I'm following your suggestion with the allen head bolt. Can you elaborate?
The orientation of the brake pad engagement plate on this bike is the same as my last bike I built with a drum brake. The difference is that bike used a rat trap springer, so maybe that was the difference? That bike isn't ridden, so I wouldn't know if it would lock up from its orientation. This bike won't be ridden much, but I still wouldn't want the risk. I'd prefer the engagement be below the fork legs, but I didn't want it on the drive side for aesthetic reasons. But... maybe I should get over that?
hmmmmm
Here's how it's mounted on a Columbia SS muscle bike. This is a long straight chopper fork, vice the curved Top Fuel fork.
In this image, does the cable go thru a hole and held in place by tightening that nut?
Yes
The head of the allen bolt would fit (hopefully snugly) inside the slot of the tab on the drum. It wouldn't be clamped just the head inside the slot would prevent rotation. The head of the allen sticking out would just act like a plain pin. Kind of like your slot idea but without cutting the tab.
Don't know much about the drum brakes honestly I just remember that one experience when I had one self-tighten. Easy enough to check if it grabs smoothly or not and like you said not going to be ridden a lot. With such a long cable have you considered running stops and eliminating some housing? Could even run it through the center of the fork.
Oh, I think I get it. You're saying to drill/tap through the leg so the head is on the outside. The bolt would stick through the slot, but not so far as to stick into the spokes. That's a really good idea! I wonder what would look better, a pan head or a flat head I recess into the leg? hmmmmm
@Chad T I've been doing a little thinking. If I use an oval head, the roundness of the head may look better when recessed into the fork. But it would mean I could only tap the inside wall of the fork. My concern would be that the forces of the brake arm acting against the end of the bolt would push that bolt around in the threads and could eventually wallow out the threads. This will be a show bike, so it may not ever become a real factor, but it's something I thought of. I'm trying to think of a way to secure it better without compromising aesthetics. Maybe a socket head? It would be flat on the outside of the fork blade, but still recessed. I could drill it out just enough to fit in there. But if I'm off, that would be an issue.
hmmmmmm
(Yes, kids. I do fret over details like this. That's why my builds take exceptionally long. I spend too much time on small details that no one will ever care about.)
hmmmmmm
(Yes, kids. I do fret over details like this. That's why my builds take exceptionally long. I spend too much time on small details that no one will ever care about.)
That sounds like it would look better
Maybe red Loctite could prevent this, especially on a bike that won't be ridden frequently?
That's also why your builds turn out so incredibly cool!
