The Jiggy Higgy
- Thread starter spinman
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yeah an old schwinn blade fork(for ballooners should fit them but maybe a kruzer king triple tree would look nice and fit also :wink: )
ill be back in a second....i have a blade fork that i can measure :idea:
ill be back in a second....i have a blade fork that i can measure :idea:
actually..a schwinn blade from a ballooner wont wont(i dont think....) it measured 2 & 7/8ths about 1" from the top
but the triple tree kruzer king forks would work(like on karfers higgins)
but the triple tree kruzer king forks would work(like on karfers higgins)
I'll shoot some pics of the fork and tire tonight. When I spread the forks by hand ( I clamp one side of the fork to a rafter in my shed and pull down on the other fork) it opens up but not near the top of the fork near the steer tube. That is where I need it spread.
I'm thinking of applying the heat at the inside angle of the crown and use a pipe wrench to spread it open a bit on each side. Right now, this inside angle is like a 90 degrees. It needs to be it like 95 or 100.
Spin
I'm thinking of applying the heat at the inside angle of the crown and use a pipe wrench to spread it open a bit on each side. Right now, this inside angle is like a 90 degrees. It needs to be it like 95 or 100.
Spin
Here's the zero clerance I'm dealing with:
The tire:
Looks like 73.5mm to me
The fork:
Looks like 72mm to me
The bracket that will have the truss rod on the rear hole. I screwed up grinding and will have to get the gash filled in.
The tire:
Looks like 73.5mm to me
The fork:
Looks like 72mm to me
The bracket that will have the truss rod on the rear hole. I screwed up grinding and will have to get the gash filled in.
do you have a port-o-power or know anyone who does? you could put the spreader ram on an push it the 1/8" you need...
if not option #2 look in the stickys in the how to thread hooch has one about spreading rear stays with an automotive tool(dont remember what though :roll: )
here it is......
viewtopic.php?t=1140
you could make the same with some flat 1/4" stock and some long bolts for around $10 or so
if not option #2 look in the stickys in the how to thread hooch has one about spreading rear stays with an automotive tool(dont remember what though :roll: )
here it is......
viewtopic.php?t=1140
you could make the same with some flat 1/4" stock and some long bolts for around $10 or so
I need to call 911. Those EMS boys have the "jaws of life". I bet that'd spread that fork real quick like :mrgreen:
cman said:Bending it may work but those forks are stout. Be sure to bolt an axle in to your dropouts stay put.
Here is a pic of a 26x3" Kenda Flame in old ballooner fork. The tire only rubs the fender but I have a fix for that.
Het cman, would you mind sharing that "fix" with us? I have a tire rub issue on a fender I'm trying to work out. Perhaps you can give me a revalation.
Dan
I like it so far!
keep it up.
keep it up.
maybe flatten the fender out a little? and as for the legs of the fork i know a good grinder 
Well, finally got the Hootchie spring figured out and installed. I did my best to spread out the fork and short of breaking it, I'm not sure if i really opened it up or not. In any event, the tire does clear (barely). I had the 1/4" plate welded to the underside of the fork. I also had to flatten the arc of the spring due to the nose slamming into the tire. I heated the underside of the spring where the bend would occur for one hour with propane. Clamped the spring in a vise and set the torch in place and let it go. It never did get red hot or anyhting, but I hoped it would at least anneal the metal and make it easier to bend and hacksaw a bend line. I hacksawed a line across about a 1/16" deep to help get a clean bend. Placed it in the vise and blasted it with a sledge hammer about 10 times. It worked to lessen the arch. I can tell you one thing; even with th holes, this spring won't provide any suspension or cushoning. It's just too ridgid. Worst case, it's looks cool.
I'm gonna need to use 2 bushings side by side to span the tire and allow the truss rods to clear the tire. I'm trying to think how to finish them off. Here I've covered the bushings with some chrome tubing. I'm looking for 1.5" OD wood dowels to match the OD of the spring eye hole.
I'm ashamed to admit that after Sensor was gracious enough to reweld my off-center drill hole, and after careful diligence was used to re-drill the hole, that I SCEWED UP AGAIN!!!!!
I'm going to plan B which is to cover up the 1st 2 holes with a metal plate and skull ornamnet.
Here's the finished mock up with the rear swept truss rod (bamboo stick in this case)
Spin
I'm gonna need to use 2 bushings side by side to span the tire and allow the truss rods to clear the tire. I'm trying to think how to finish them off. Here I've covered the bushings with some chrome tubing. I'm looking for 1.5" OD wood dowels to match the OD of the spring eye hole.
I'm ashamed to admit that after Sensor was gracious enough to reweld my off-center drill hole, and after careful diligence was used to re-drill the hole, that I SCEWED UP AGAIN!!!!!
I'm going to plan B which is to cover up the 1st 2 holes with a metal plate and skull ornamnet.
Here's the finished mock up with the rear swept truss rod (bamboo stick in this case)
Spin
TIGHT!
Those Fatti-Os are awesome!
Hope the springer works out for you.
That's an unusual design.
Are you just "going green"....using bamboo like is trendy in the longboard skateboard bidness? :lol:
Those Fatti-Os are awesome!
Hope the springer works out for you.
That's an unusual design.
Are you just "going green"....using bamboo like is trendy in the longboard skateboard bidness? :lol:
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it's to late now but you can get a torch hook up that you can run with gas and air for like $70 at the home depot it come's with 2 tank's gas and air and it will get thing's red hot.....it's not propain gas you get with it but you can hook the propain up to it with the air and it works amazing...... i love how the springer is coming....
....i love how the springer is coming....Von Stans..."
I just ordered the 1/2" hexagonal rod that'll be fab'd into the truss rods. Should look cooler than the run-of-the-mill chrome tubing. I also dropped the seat tube off to get it curved and spiked on the end.
This thing's turning into the 'Money Pit' :roll:
Spin
I just ordered the 1/2" hexagonal rod that'll be fab'd into the truss rods. Should look cooler than the run-of-the-mill chrome tubing. I also dropped the seat tube off to get it curved and spiked on the end.
This thing's turning into the 'Money Pit' :roll:
Spin
spinman said:
sounds familier
they always do :shock:
sorry to see that hole didnt work out........looks like the pilot hole was in the right spot but then the others abit askew....
how the heck did that happen? :?
sorry to see that hole didnt work out........looks like the pilot hole was in the right spot but then the others abit askew....
how the heck did that happen? :?
"....was in the right spot but then the others abit askew....
how the heck did that happen?"
I think it's the shape (angle) of the bit. The angle of the bit head is such that it wants to roll around in the hole you drilled before it.
Next time (if there ever is a next time), I would start with the biggest drill (no pilot) and just take my time. That way, you really can't veer off center. I'd also anneal the metal by heating.
Spin
how the heck did that happen?"
I think it's the shape (angle) of the bit. The angle of the bit head is such that it wants to roll around in the hole you drilled before it.
Next time (if there ever is a next time), I would start with the biggest drill (no pilot) and just take my time. That way, you really can't veer off center. I'd also anneal the metal by heating.
Spin
Got the hexagonal bar and did some grinding and hammering to widen and flatten the 1/2" OD to allow for a 3/8" hole on the end to attach to the Hootchie. It's gonna be a heavy a@@ front end!
