What Clear coat to use with new paint job?

[MaX-D]

I'm painting my Schwinn Heavy Duti with Duplicolor Grabber Green. What clear coat should I use, and how many coats?
Thanks.

 

[DesmoDog]

If Duplicolor makes a clear I'd use that. Number of coats depends on what you're trying to do. Follow the directions on the can? I'd use just enough to bury the graphics you're trying to cover.

If you aren't trying to bury graphics and it's not a base/clear system, I wouldn't use a clear coat at all.

 

[rickpaulos]

Warning. I've used most brands of rattle can clear and some attack some paints. Makes them crinkle up.
Do a test on some other object with the same paint.

In general with clear, if you can see it you put on way too much. Stand back, a quick light mist and let it dry. Then decide if it needs another light mist.

 

[MaX-D]

If Duplicolor makes a clear I'd use that. Number of coats depends on what you're trying to do. Follow the directions on the can? I'd use just enough to bury the graphics you're trying to cover.

If you aren't trying to bury graphics and it's not a base/clear system, I wouldn't use a clear coat at all.

Duplicolor does have a clear called 1K. The bike is yellow but will be stripped down to bare metal, primer, and paint. No graphics. I'm guessing that not having a clear coat would make it easier to touch up the paint if need be.

 

[MaX-D]

Warning. I've used most brands of rattle can clear and some attack some paints. Makes them crinkle up.
Do a test on some other object with the same paint.

In general with clear, if you can see it you put on way too much. Stand back, a quick light mist and let it dry. Then decide if it needs another light mist.

Thank you for the warning. Although I'm not a noob to rattle cans, this will be my 1st paint job on a bike.

 

[Captain Awesome]

Duplicolor does have a clear called 1K. The bike is yellow but will be stripped down to bare metal, primer, and paint. No graphics. I'm guessing that not having a clear coat would make it easier to touch up the paint if need be.

That's a good clear

I'd spray some test coupons first with your combo and see how it comes out. That's what I do

 

[us56456712]

If you use decals the clear will get under it, lift them and chunks will chip off. You can avoid this by using very fine wet sand paper and getting the area under the decals absolutely smooth. I put a thin coat of clear epoxy on my vinyl stickers, then clear after it’s dry. For clear, I use rattle can 2K. This stuff is touchy and will give you a pebbly finish unless you can put the frame in a surround and use a blower or fan to suck any overspray mist down and out your enclosure. It’s a very hard finish but frustrating to use. Clear can actually dull some colors, especially silver, which will lose its pop.

 

[MaX-D]

If you use decals the clear will get under it, lift them and chunks will chip off. You can avoid this by using very fine wet sand paper and getting the area under the decals absolutely smooth. I put a thin coat of clear epoxy on my vinyl stickers, then clear after it’s dry. For clear, I use rattle can 2K. This stuff is touchy and will give you a pebbly finish unless you can put the frame in a surround and use a blower or fan to suck any overspray mist down and out your enclosure. It’s a very hard finish but frustrating to use. Clear can actually dull some colors, especially silver, which will lose its pop.

I wouldn't feel confident using the 2K clear. I'll be painting outside under a 10x10 portable canopy. I'll not be using any decals at all. The color I'm using is Lime Green. Is it necessary to use a clear coat?

 

[DesmoDog]

If that paint doesn't say it needs a clear coat, it doesn't.

Two-stage paints, aka color/clear, base/clear etc need a clear coat because the base coat isn't intended to stand up to the elements or chemicals. I'm not all that familiar with spray cans but I can't think of any two stage spray cans I've seen. I'm confident they exist but I don't think they are common.

The spray cans I've used/seen have all been single stage, they don't need a clear coat. Some guys will use a clear over single stage paints to get a deeper finish or to bury graphics. I don't - if I'm using a single stage paint it's because I don't want to mess with a clear. Or I want a finish that looks more... vintage? Factory? A well done clear coat makes the finish look too showy for some things.

But for the love of all things holy, don't use a nitro clear. They take forever to set up and are fragile forever. Oh, that rubber hose melted your finish? So sad. What, that poly finish got sprayed with brake fluid? No worries, wipe it off and get on with life, you'll be fine. Now some guitar fanatic will step up and tell me how wrong I am and that's fine. I have guitars too. A couple have nitro finishes. I still hate nitrocellulose finishes. When I get to the point where the finish on the guitar is what's keeping me from sounding good we can talk.

Screw nitro finishes IMHO.

 

[MaX-D]

Here's the paint.

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...2-ounce-grabber-green-spray-paint/dplg/de1641

 

[us56456712]

I wouldn't feel confident using the 2K clear. I'll be painting outside under a 10x10 portable canopy. I'll not be using any decals at all. The color I'm using is Lime Green. Is it necessary to use a clear coat?

It won’t do anything. 2k is harder than ordinary rattle can paint. Rattle can clear is soft and won’t help with chipping or scratching. Personally I wouldn’t bother. I don’t use regular rattle can clear even on original frame paint I’m trying to preserve. I use Penetrol drying oil or a Gibbs penetrating oil coat. Gibbs won’t gum up when you reapply every few years. Some Hot Rodders use Gibbs to stop rust.

 

[bleedingfingers]

If its Engine paint I wouldn't clear it I don't even think I'd prime it .
Pretty rugged stuff already .
But if you are going to use decals they should be covered with something .

 

[Indyjps]

I wouldn't clear coat a shiny rattle can paint unless you were trying effects.

Need to be sure the base and clear are the same type of paint. Not just same brand.
EX: RUSTOLEUM makes enamel and laquer rattle can, primer / topcoat / clear. If you mix the paint types up they will react.

Be sure to do a test spray out, even with same brand / same type of paint. Rattle can is so heavily regulated for VOC's they change the solvent frequently to comply.

 

[user 35233]

2k is harder than ordinary rattle can paint.

Do you think 2K would chip if I coat anodized pedals or might I try something else? My metal pedals never retain their color for more than a week.

 

[us56456712]

Do you think 2K would chip if I coat anodized pedals or might I try something else? My metal pedals never retain their color for more than a week.

Yes it will chip. It will also dull the base color. Pedals are the lowest part of the bike, takes strikes and are abraded by sand and dirt.

 

[user 35233]

Yes it will chip. It will also dull the base color. Pedals are the lowest par of the bike, takes strikes and are abraded by sand and dirt.

any suggestions short of abandon?

 

[us56456712]

any suggestions short of abandon?

You could try 2k clear. You won’t hurt them. It would probably be better than nothing. All paint will chip.

 

[Son of Kradus]

I would stick with a clear thats the same brand, try and mix brands of base and then clear will cause you a great deal of frustration!
it may work but really? as said earlier unless its a hurried paint job where you dont really care then no clear coat is needed.

 

[us56456712]

If that paint doesn't say it needs a clear coat, it doesn't.

Two-stage paints, aka color/clear, base/clear etc need a clear coat because the base coat isn't intended to stand up to the elements or chemicals. I'm not all that familiar with spray cans but I can't think of any two stage spray cans I've seen. I'm confident they exist but I don't think they are common.

The spray cans I've used/seen have all been single stage, they don't need a clear coat. Some guys will use a clear over single stage paints to get a deeper finish or to bury graphics. I don't - if I'm using a single stage paint it's because I don't want to mess with a clear. Or I want a finish that looks more... vintage? Factory? A well done clear coat makes the finish look too showy for some things.

But for the love of all things holy, don't use a nitro clear. They take forever to set up and are fragile forever. Oh, that rubber hose melted your finish? So sad. What, that poly finish got sprayed with brake fluid? No worries, wipe it off and get on with life, you'll be fine. Now some guitar fanatic will step up and tell me how wrong I am and that's fine. I have guitars too. A couple have nitro finishes. I still hate nitrocellulose finishes. When I get to the point where the finish on the guitar is what's keeping me from sounding good we can talk.

Screw nitro finishes IMHO.

Nitro eventually peels off in sheets. It may take 15 years for the peeling to start, but eventually nitro lifts off.

 

[us56456712]

Nitro eventually peels off in sheets. It may take 15 years for the peeling to start, but eventually nitro lifts off.View attachment 227491

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