A Proper Rat Rod

[ingola]

Thanks Ingola: I’m guessing the aftermarket spindle that was in there worked with the caged bearings that were in there as well, but I never really rode the bike, so I can’t say for sure.

I had mixed an original Raleigh spindle with what I’m guessing was an aftermarket caged bearing set.

ive got the ball bearings out of the blue bike, but they are a little on the rough side. I have them soaking in rust solution now.

I may just buy new 1/4” bearings?

This may sound weird get a waterproof " "massager" through in a container with cleaning solution and let her rip cheap ultrasonic cleaner

 

[user 35233]

My housings are closer to purple than maroon!!!
View attachment 239757

Your newer cable housing option is pretty nice lookin as is. But if you decide to keep trying, and why not, I've found red (Rit) lightens purple rather than coating it like paint. Are you using Rit? Wondering because I didn't know you could dye plastic without heating it to 190 degrees. If so, heat takes moments rather than hours. You're really making me worry about the cost of taking my own Raleigh apart. I'm glad your helping me understand future hurdles. I imagine even reading it I'll still find it complicated to do.

 

[68z27]

The bad news; the proper rat rod continues to fight me at every turn!!!!

I got the spindle in, and it’s GOOD.
View attachment 239755

View attachment 239756
Unfortunately, it’s not PERFECT:

It seems the super cool caged bearings that were in there???? Well….as they are very easy to work with, regardless of how tight I get the BB cups, there is a slight amount of play between the spindle and the BB cups.

I could finish it as is, but I’d really like the thing perfect

-I can pull loose ball bearings out of the blue bike and reinstall in the PRR, although that’s a job I’ve never done before and am not particularly looking forward to it!

Go slow and 'glue' the loose bearings in place with plenty of grease. Also prepare a good work surface that will catch any run away bearings.

I would also look in to whether the BB brgs are 1. all of the same size and 2. does your frame take metric or imperial sized ball bearings?

 

[Jude Ephesus]

Your newer cable housing option is pretty nice lookin as is. But if you decide to keep trying, and why not, I've found red (Rit) lightens purple rather than coating it like paint. Are you using Rit? Wondering because I didn't know you could dye plastic without heating it to 190 degrees. If so, heat takes moments rather than hours. You're really making me worry about the cost of taking my own Raleigh apart. I'm glad you’re helping me understand future hurdles. I imagine even reading it I'll still find it complicated to do.

Thanks so much for your input and following my build!!!!!!

I love your build and really want to try some of those solid tires!

Ok, so, first and foremost, this bike was given to me as a gift as the original owner had passed away and the kids could not bear to sell it or give the thing away. (They said ‘please just enjoy the bike’)

-all they knew was he loved the bike, had it ‘forever’ and rode it every day. They had no idea the bike had some pretty glaring issues and had some pretty major work done to it over the years.

I have never restored a vintage Raleigh before, but had heard about the ‘Cottered crank’ issues And knew they preferred loose bearings over caged bearings (I have a vintage Raleigh technium I have logged THOUSANDS of miles on, but hardly wrenched on at all)

at current, I’ve got at least $409 in costs in this thing I can track to receipts: I’ve got other costs (minor) in parts bikes I’ve stolen parts from NOT accounted for. I am a stickler on costs and this total accounts for my Park BB tool and $30 in fuel running around for various parts bikes.

When I started the restoration, I knew the bike was a somewhat rare large frame, had a bent fork that needed replaced and was prepared for that mess, but was completely unprepared for the bent spindle and complete overhaul of the bottom bracket. Looking closely, the chainring is not perfect either, but it’s close enough for my pickiness!

I have extra effort wrapped up salvaging ‘R’ nuts and their special threaded bolt counter parts, because I guess that’s a thing for Raleigh owners!

if you’re going to tackle the bottom bracket, Id just buy the official tool for $50 or set a day aside to make one. You’ll need a grinder, vice and a lot of patience.

if your target Raleigh doesn’t need any work on the crank, I’d do it and wouldn’t think twice. It’ll be a pricier than a vintage American bike build and a bit of a pain scrambling for parts, as ’only Raleigh works with Raleigh’

I’ve restored many a Schwinn…. This makes my Schwinn restorations look like cake! (Cheap cake at that!)

as for the dye, I am using Rit. Powder, no synthetic. Trying to keep things cheap, the powder mixed with time and vinegar can work. I set out the bucket with cable housings in them on our cement deck in full sun for heat. It’s not boiling like the guys I see on YouTube, but it seems to be working OK, I’ve just done a poor job mixing. (I tried 1 packet of red and 1/2 packet of black)

i will pull the cables this weekend and have a look. I would really prefer a dark cable of about any color so as to keep the bike clean Looking form a distance. Stay tuned as I play with the cables this weekend …. Im still interested in the red!

thanks again for your interest and don’t let any of my fussin’ deter you!

 

[Jude Ephesus]

I would also look in to whether the BB brgs are 1. all of the same size and 2. does your frame take metric or imperial sized ball bearings?

That’s a great question! Who knows! Lol.

Truth be told, I’m 1000% clueless on Raleigh (and most other things!) and at this point am just throwing parts at it! (I’m done throwing money at it!)

-if it’s any consolation, the loose bearings I’m planning on using came out of the same bike that donated the spindle….

I’m guessing what was in there was original, but I can’t prove it!

I could pull the cups out of that, so I would have the matching cups, bearings and spindle.

the blue bike looks to be a 70’s women’s sports model. (On page 2 of the build thread)

 

[Son of Kradus]

I would.........cut the tops off some stainless ,rounded top, allen screws, clue them in the holes and then use a clear silicone sealant, like for house guttering, the srew heads will look like the real deal but its only held on by the clear silicone ,used as a glue ,to the head tube! it shouldnt come off and if ya really didnt like it you could change it easily as it will clean up better than having to close up or maybe drill new holes! the silicone sealant if pressed on and uniformly thinn will provide a sturdy bond for the badge!
Just my irrelevant 2 bob's worth!

 

[ingola]

Raleigh is a pain no doubt about it, I had a guy at the bike shop ask me why there Heavy there old, nothing fits then I told them to ride it he did then he got it you cannot ride one of these without smiling. Trust the work is worth the end result.

 

[Jude Ephesus]

I would.........cut the tops off some stainless ,rounded top, allen screws, clue them in the holes and then use a clear silicone sealant, like for house guttering, the srew heads will look like the real deal but its only held on by the clear silicone ,used as a glue ,to the head tube! it shouldnt come off and if ya really didnt like it you could change it easily as it will clean up better than having to close up or maybe drill new holes! the silicone sealant if pressed on and uniformly thinn will provide a sturdy bond for the badge!
Just my irrelevant 2 bob's worth!

Great input, but I already caved: spent $7 on eBay for 6 head badge rivets from across the pond: price includes freight

I tried @OddJob ’s nails from hobby lobby and they were just too thin to catch….

 

[Jude Ephesus]

Here’s one dyed cable; it’s a far cry from maroon! We’ll see if it lightens as it dries.

I left the other one in as this cable was off white and the other was bright white, so we’ll try to even them up a bit.

One bonus is the vinegar, dye and heat have made the plastic very soft and easy to work with

We’ll see what the other ones look like off the red bike. I’d still really like a dark red

 

[68z27]

Black or dark red, I call that a "win win" scenario......

 

[Jude Ephesus]

Black or dark red, I call that a "win win" scenario......

Thanks! Yeah, I do kind of like the dull purple-ish black. Could be perfect: I’m going to take a shot at the red this weekend and sample the two in final assembly: The Sturmy archer cable for the shifter is black….. I’m not messing with that.

 

[handyandy1100]

What if you stretched out the cable and sprayed it with some spray paint for vinyl?

 

[Jude Ephesus]

What if you stretched out the cable and sprayed it with some spray paint for vinyl?

I thought about that! I was concerned about the paint possibly cracking and the white cables bleeding through. they dye is also a lot cheaper @ $1.99 a pack.

I’m glad I tried the experiment. Messing up is a great teacher!!!!! -those other cables on the red bike are next. If I can’t get those right, I’ll just pick the lesser of two evils on this thing and I will know for future projects to spring for the vinyl spray paint Or new cable housings.

I did think the dye would give me more control over the color. I wasn’t right, but thought it would.

for the red I’ll drain 90% of this and save it. Add a packet of red and more vinegar: if the red is not dark enough, I’ll add this mix, little by little.

 

[Captain Awesome]

You can get shrink tube in all sorts of colors. The stuff I get from Amazon comes in 10’ chunks

 

[Ulu]

You can get the black stuff at Lowe’s on a roll. But it’s only 8 feet per roll. This will shrink down to 1/8 inch diameter. I’ve used it on my bikes that have cables.

 

[Jude Ephesus]

Ok, so, this was weird; just sort of threw some stuff around and everything worked:

The big question is; Am I pushing my luck thinking these brake cables should be dark red or a dark, muted color?

 

[handyandy1100]

I don't know, I like the contrast of the dirty white cable housings. They have certain rattiness about them.

 

[user 35233]

Here’s one dyed cable; it’s a far cry from maroon! We’ll see if it lightens as it dries.

I left the other one in as this cable was off white and the other was bright white, so we’ll try to even them up a bit.

One bonus is the vinegar, dye and heat have made the plastic very soft and easy to work with

We’ll see what the other ones look like off the red bike. I’d still really like a dark red
View attachment 239900

Have you thrown them in a dishwasher yet? Since you didn't boil them there may be some color change once washed.

I thought about that! I was concerned about the paint possibly cracking and the white cables bleeding through. they dye is also a lot cheaper @ $1.99 a pack.

I’m glad I tried the experiment. Messing up is a great teacher!!!!! -those other cables on the red bike are next. If I can’t get those right, I’ll just pick the lesser of two evils on this thing and I will know for future projects to spring for the vinyl spray paint Or new cable housings.

I did think the dye would give me more control over the color. I wasn’t right, but thought it would.

for the red I’ll drain 90% of this and save it. Add a packet of red and more vinegar: if the red is not dark enough, I’ll add this mix, little by little.

Given that cable housings cost more than dye I'd strongly suggest the $5.99 option specified for synthetics, and the stovetop method using more than one color so you can correct things. In my own experiments I consider which two colors make the final color I'm looking for rather than choosing the one closest to my final intent. I went with red and blue to get the burgundy-violet I wanted which seems like your color range as well. Being able to add color drip by drip and watching change in real time seem invaluable in this process because leaving them for long periods of time kinda locks you in to whatever you get. In the end I used so little dye that the risk of mess was laughable and I have most of both bottles left over. Smooth and painless.

 

[Pondo]

The big question is; Am I pushing my luck thinking these brake cables should be dark red or a dark, muted color?

The dirty white looks good to me but I really like the dark red idea with the black bike.

 

[Jude Ephesus]

Have you thrown them in a dishwasher yet? Since you didn't boil them there may be some color change once washed.


Given that cable housings cost more than dye I'd strongly suggest the $5.99 option specified for synthetics, and the stovetop method using more than one color so you can correct things. In my own experiments I consider which two colors make the final color I'm looking for rather than choosing the one closest to my final intent. I went with red and blue to get the burgundy-violet I wanted which seems like your color range as well. Being able to add color drip by drip and watching change in real time seem invaluable in this process because leaving them for long periods of time kinda locks you in to whatever you get. In the end I used so little dye that the risk of mess was laughable and I have most of both bottles left over. Smooth and painless.

You’re 100% right on this….. I just can’t bring myself to do it.

there‘s a great video online of a guy dying plastic parts just like you’re talking about.

unfortunately, I’d trash my kitchen and a nice pot and lid…. My wife is very gracious with my bike hobby…. The dyed kitchen might be the straw that breaks the camel’s back!

I’m not sure what I’m going to do on the cables….