LumberJacked

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I think if you can get a uniform finish, it goes a long way towards a cohesive look, important with this kind of build. Wether you can accomplish that with bare metal is the question. Will you be able to get the same look for the steerer of the fork you inserted as the frame tubes of the original bike? Paint will cover any variations in the metals. In my opinion, a loud shiny paint job is what you want. Bright glossy red or orange or neon green, something wild to make the custom work seem normal
 
I agree with Matti. I think this build would be better tied together with uniform paint. I like the idea of wild and bright, but even a mild uniform color would work.
 
I think if you can get a uniform finish, it goes a long way towards a cohesive look, important with this kind of build. Wether you can accomplish that with bare metal is the question. Will you be able to get the same look for the steerer of the fork you inserted as the frame tubes of the original bike? Paint will cover any variations in the metals. In my opinion, a loud shiny paint job is what you want. Bright glossy red or orange or neon green, something wild to make the custom work seem normal

I agree with Matti. I think this build would be better tied together with uniform paint. I like the idea of wild and bright, but even a mild uniform color would work.

I am really glad I asked and got a different perspective. I initially thought of the neon/glamour days of late 1980s early 90s mountain biking and this was the direction I thought of.

Then, with the procurement of 2 different color "springer" fork blades (that matched in shape!), a spring from dept store bikes and mishmash of other parts and a name like LUMBERJACKED, I then thought of going towards a Rat-ty patina olive drab color scheme of what a CCC (civilian conservation corp) lumber jack might use.

Either way, I figure I have a day or 2 to decide - rain has been sporadic......
 
I then thought of going towards a Rat-ty patina olive drab color scheme of what a CCC (civilian conservation corp) lumber jack might use
Oh, that's another interesting direction from the wild custom colors, perhaps something in the middle, safety yellow and flat black, with patina added

images (3).jpeg
logging-truck-logging-museum-collier-memorial-state-park-oregon-JPAEFF.jpg
 
You could always get some red flannel shirts at goodwill and upholster the whole bike with them. :D :D :D :D

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Summer is not a great time for bare steel. Within 15 min of water blasting away the Citrus Strip, surface rust begins to appear even while drying. I guess I could use alcohol to chase away water but not worth it...Looks like its time to paint....


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So, I forget, will the original chainstays be chopped off after paint so it looks like this...

View attachment 273653


Cuz that would be pretty darn cool!
Yup. I may have mentioned earlier in my thread that I always wanted this style of bike (even though it's kinda gimmicky) but could never afford one . I plan on cutting off those chain stays a later today weather permitting....

It might be cool with a crusty ‘barn find’ look. Love the chain stays.
This will be my first attempt at patina. Of coarse, with a little salt water and 7 days of weather, I could have the patina made FOR me......:)
 
Yup. I may have mentioned earlier in my thread that I always wanted this style of bike (even though it's kinda gimmicky) but could never afford one . I plan on cutting off those chain stays a later today weather permitting....


This will be my first attempt at patina. Of coarse, with a little salt water and 7 days of weather, I could have the patina made FOR me......:)

You could speed that up and have patina in minutes, literally. I did a rust-ina job on my lettering for Bel Aire Flow Shelby that was raw steel, which is what you have here basically. I'll post a couple photos and a description of the mixture / process.

Before
shelby letters before.jpg


After maybe 20 minutes or less

shelby letters after.jpg



It's basically my vinegar water mix, but 75% white vinegar to 25% water, in a spray bottle, and then spray the area, sprinkle some sea salt (reacts more quickly and strongly than table salt) over the sprayed area. Let sit and viola'!

Just had a thought. You could use this spray on tube junctions, and just a mist on top of the frame tubes / stay tubes, then cover those places where you 'RusT-ina ' sprayed with mustard; then add your paint coat. I mean, basically you would be preserving natural rust and have a very unique look! Wow, I'm getting excited just thinking about it!! :inlove:
 
You could speed that up and have patina in minutes, literally. I did a rust-ina job on my lettering for Bel Aire Flow Shelby that was raw steel, which is what you have here basically. I'll post a couple photos and a description of the mixture / process.

Before
View attachment 273657

After maybe 20 minutes or less

View attachment 273656


It's basically my vinegar water mix, but 75% white vinegar to 25% water, in a spray bottle, and then spray the area, sprinkle some sea salt (reacts more quickly and strongly than table salt) over the sprayed area. Let sit and viola'!

Just had a thought. You could use this spray on tube junctions, and just a mist on top of the frame tubes / stay tubes, then cover those places where you 'RusT-ina ' sprayed with mustard; then add your paint coat. I mean, basically you would be preserving natural rust and have a very unique look! Wow, I'm getting excited just thinking about it!! :inlove:

I like where you went with that. Some great ideas and so little time.....
 
Summer is not a great time for bare steel. Within 15 min of water blasting away the Citrus Strip, surface rust begins to appear even while drying. I guess I could use alcohol to chase away water but not worth it...Looks like its time to paint....

I've heard of chasing alcohol with water, but I guess some days our humidity makes you feel the need to chase your water with alcohol!!!
 
I like where you went with that. Some great ideas and so little time.....

Probably get it all done in one concentrated hour. The key is to go for feel, not perfection of placement as far as the RusT-ina goes. Just think about where you see rust typically, spray on the mix and the sea salt, give it a little bit, keep spraying off and on for 15 minutes. Dab the areas dry with a lint free rag, dab the mustard on with a natural sponge or other applicator that will give it a random look with different sized blotches, then immediately spray on your paint coat. Wait about 10-20 minutes for the paint to set up a little, then use a hose and with head set to a hard but fine spray, hose off the mustard. Let it dry. Revel in your creative accomplishment.
 
Before and after..................

After CS removal, I took my dead blow hammer and gave all of the welds a pretty good smack (or 2 or 3) 🔨......... No broken/cracked welds and I didn't hear any vibrations or other noises that could indicate a possible failure "down the road".


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Nice work. One cool option with your frame mod is that now you could use a belt drive since the drivetrain no longer needs to cross over any frame members.
 
Added just a little bit of black primer on top of the red. I Love the look but I want to continue with the CCC (civilian conservation corps/Lumberjacked) motif. Then sprayed on the military OD green. The "runs" and rough texture in the paint are not runs but actually the paint floating on top of the 3n1 oil I applied along with trying some petroleum jelly for a similar effect. We'll see how this turns out.

After a suggestion from Colonel Mustard (aka @OddJob ) I will try the mustard mix......weather willing............


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I like your oil / petroleum jelly technique! I also really liked the black on the primer! Maybe you can sand away (with a white vinegar loaded #0000 steel wool or S.O.S. pad) some of the khaki green to bring those back up a bit. Be interesting to see how you incorporate the mustard into the mix.

RaT oN~!
 

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