LumberJacked
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I did some wiping off the oil and petroleum jelly then a little sanding and I'll try the #0000 to see what happens. The black is REALLY thin to let the red visually come thru. I am also Really liking how the petro jelly (with just a light dab from the tip of the bristles) mimics chips or other impacts.
As far as the mustard mix, I am still a little shy to implement. Time permitting, I'll find your and/or @The Renaissance Man BO thread for guidance.
Cool. Thanx. I did some light sanding and I feel that it's actually looking kinda good for my 1st time.......
OJ, I forgot to ask; do you apply the mustard mix to bare metal only? I do have a few locations where I have steel uncoated/unprotected.....
The mustard is typically applied to either the bare metal, original patina that you want to save, or your rat-ina coat of primer / rust colored spray / etc. Then your top coat is applied immediately on after the mustard is splotched on where you want it. Wait about 15 mins or so, depending on humidity levels. Then using a strong spray from a garden hose, spray down the whole frame, lifting the mustard off and revealing what's underneath.
Without seeing what your frame looks like after petro jelly removal, from your description I'm guessing you have achieved a similar result.
Here is where I am currently on the patina; a cross between rust on bare steel augmented with salt water, and strategic sanding on red/black with flat OD green as a finished color. This is probably all I will do to the frame since time is getting short.
If I do have extra time, I will attempt the mustard mix on the rear fender. Otherwise, I think the petroleum jelly works pretty well without thickness concerns, (re)wetting, etc.; just dab it on prior to final color coats and then wipe off revealing what was underneath. It doesn't promote rusting on the bare steel so I am relying on salt water and frequent applications for that.
If I do have extra time, I will attempt the mustard mix on the rear fender. Otherwise, I think the petroleum jelly works pretty well without thickness concerns, (re)wetting, etc.; just dab it on prior to final color coats and then wipe off revealing what was underneath. It doesn't promote rusting on the bare steel so I am relying on salt water and frequent applications for that.
Wow! Dig the RaT-ina brother! Looks like you have that petro jelly thing down pat. Seems like it might be easier to control as well; compared to the less viscous nature of mustard. I say leave it and move on to the parts. Fender mustard might be cool, but your success on the frame says 'keep on, keepin' on'!
Thanx OJ, that means a lot, especially since I have 3 or 4 types of mustard in the fridge and I would probably have a melt down if I had to choose which one to start with
. In the future I might see what it takes to dilute the petroleum jelly and thin it some to modify the coverage rate..........
Nice work on the paint-ina
(past) Time to start building the front fork. A pic of parts to be used. (I forgot to include the rusty, crusty, probably doesn't function Mongoose cheep-o suspension shock/spring.)
Removing the stem from the steering tube turned out to be a complete fail. So I'll include a photo of sparks.......
Removing the stem from the steering tube turned out to be a complete fail. So I'll include a photo of sparks.......
Any news?
Brief description - running short on time;
2nd fork/steerer tube extraction was successful and ground down welds from forks.
Tightened up "fork blade" rivet from bow saw, measured, located and drilled pivot holes.
I believe I have all of the components to assemble the fork blades - I also have some brass pieces that, time permitting, brass grommets to be used as pivot bushings and some ornamentation (?). From there I will create a patina and use them with the assembly to kinda give an older vintage look.....
I haven't figured out the spring perch yet
.........
2nd fork/steerer tube extraction was successful and ground down welds from forks.
Tightened up "fork blade" rivet from bow saw, measured, located and drilled pivot holes.
I believe I have all of the components to assemble the fork blades - I also have some brass pieces that, time permitting, brass grommets to be used as pivot bushings and some ornamentation (?). From there I will create a patina and use them with the assembly to kinda give an older vintage look.....
I haven't figured out the spring perch yet
.........
Whoa! That's a lot of work with only approx 36 hours of daylight remaining in the build off.
But it is REALLY COOL!
But it is REALLY COOL!
Been waiting for this cool fork to come together!
Just concentrate on getting all of the mechanicals first, then worry about dressing it up or down so to speak. Keep plugging and make it happen!!!
Just concentrate on getting all of the mechanicals first, then worry about dressing it up or down so to speak. Keep plugging and make it happen!!!
Thanx OJ! The mind is willing, but the body is weak." I am happy about how several things have come out pretty well. Part of the problem is that I want results exactly how I want them to be and it slows me down significantly. I need to implement "Progress Not Perfection".....we'll see what happensWhoa! That's a lot of work with only approx 36 hours of daylight remaining in the build off.
But it is REALLY COOL!
......You're right KF. Considering that I am tackling this Project from both ends, I should have focused on the fab work first, then making it look ugly/pretty; I wish I had started on the bow saw fork first but it's coming together. The last remaining part of the fork is the spring mounting which I will be addressing tomorrow. I'm not giving up, I'm in this 'till the end!......
Rat-on Daddy-o......
Any sparks fly yesterday?
