Cervelo S1
go fast bike. But not anymore.
inner tube missing in rear wheel.
Ultegra STI 9 speed shifters with 10 speed rear wheel.
105 rear der
Tiagra crank.
Cervelo labeled brake calipers.
mismatched wheels.
goofy seat.
1 broken "toe clip" pedal.
Overall a bunch of mixed parts.
DOH, broken frame. 2 cracks, on either side of the seat post. Didn't see that when I bought it.
Well, it will get parted out and I'll break even.
To fix the the ackerman, think how the typical front steer geometry is set up. The connecting links off the king pins angle out towards each wheel. This forms a trapezoid of the steering links.
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On your trike each arm is parallel, give no change to the angle of each wheel, they are always parallel. Need to cut them off and re-weld them on. The length and angles need to be calculated to match the wheelbase, but any amount will be better than it is.
Cannnondale Adventure 3. Has a heavy duty rear wheel. 13 or 12 gauge 36 spoke Wheels Industry wheel. Odd geometry. Short top tube, bars too high. Steers like a truck. Cleaned and lubed.
Murray Mt Climber. 24" wheels. Serial number is just a paper sticker. I wonder how they got away with that.
dots, dots, dots. I'm going to make it into a coaster brake bike. Remove the lousy derailleurs and brakes. 28 spoke wheels in 24", definitely old school. I have an excess of 24 hole coaster brake hubs so i'll keep the wide heavy rims. I wonder how they painted all those little dots on the frame. Looks like they were individually applied with a foam tip stick. How many thousands of dots and the labor cost? The rims need paint so maybe I'll go dot crazy. What cheap bean counter specs rim brakes on painted rims? Just a build note, most newer boxmart 24" fake mountain bikes have 36 spoke wheels. These vintage USA bikes have 28s.
Huffy Superia. Okay, I"ve had several of these before and this is the first time I noticed, is it SUPERia or SUPER 1a ? Hum goofy font. Both a stretch for a Huffy. No cable guides or stops to grind off for the single speed conversion. Internally routed full length cables in the 1990! So much friction to make the plastic thumb friction shifters work even worse. Internal routing was just as annoying then as they are now. Paint is good except where a padlock was banging against the seat tube. End of the kickstand was very rusted over, probably from standing in a dirt floor garage or shed. Oversized frame tubes for a gas pipe frame. Thick rear dropouts. Front rim is bent. I'll build wheels with newer wallyword aluminum rims. But first, some green spray paint on the rims. This bike is so old it was made in the USA. Dismantled and washed.
Nice Cannondale Catalyst. 27.5 Hydraulic discs. Made in China.
Hot Wheels! Getting converted to a strider.
Huffy Blades with tear drop tubes. Getting a single speed conversion. El Toro bar setup.
Kent CoPilot tandem with several pounds of bird droppings on it. I know, never power wash a bicycle but this is an exception. It needs a full repack anyhow. New chains, freewheel, derailleur, cables, tubes, etc.
Electra Townie 7 speed. Has a chain guard from an Electra Townie 3 Balloon.
Filo ladies cruiser. Original owner said she put 3 miles on it. Short frame.
Matched pair of Little Miss Matched. bought used at different times at different garage sales. Has twin girls so why not.
Marin Hawk Hill. needs front brake bled.
Raleigh LTD 1973. Ladies. Very clean and nice paint.
Raleigh Grand Mesa Mountain Tour.
Extra long wheel base. Large frame. Bull Moose handlebars. Thumb shifters. double crank. Early Vintage Mountain bike.
needs full overhaul, seat tires. Pulled this out so I can add the made in England folding S.Cargo trailer that stores on the bike when not used as a trailer.
added: 1984 serial number and date code on the crank but the bike first appeared in the 1985 catalog.
Chrome Schwinn S7 rim with Sturmey Archer AW Alloy hub. Indicator rod is broken off. Will get cleaned and polished. Rim is dent free but a bit rusty. Spoke nipples are a full 1" long. Missing about 10 spokes, rest are rusting through.
The ALLOY hubs are sought after by those who believe the steel AW is too heavy. The main issue with the ALLOY is the flanges are the same thickness as the steel hubs and are very prone to breaking. Probably the thinnest flanges on any alloy hub.
I'm thinking I'll measure and weigh the shell when it's fully apart.
There are 4+ versions of AW hub shells since the 1950s.
Alloy with threaded in left side.
earlier steel with threaded in left side.
Steel with pressed in left side.
Later steel had lines pressed in to the shells. (~1980+)
Graciela Rodo Boulanger (b 1935 Bolivia)
Tour de France 1977.
Lithograph
original batch of 150 prints are $3500 each in professional galleries.
I'm sure this is a poster reprint but I guess I should unframe it to check. It's got extra wood in the frame?
Picked up 5 bikes late last night from a local college facilities manager. Abandoned on campus.
best of the bunch is a 1984/1985 Raleigh Wyoming mixte 10 speed with flat bars.
Others: Mongoose Spectra bso, Schwinn Mirada (pacific version), Giant Boulder SE, Huffy Cranbrook. Hum, all but the mongoose are ladies frame bikes. Overall kinda clean. Must have been in a sorority house.
May scrap out several of them. Underside of the Boulder has fresh road tar. The shifters on the Giant would go on the Kent Tandem. The cranbrook parts (hd spokes on the wheels) could go on another mens cruiser frameset I have. The Huffy seat is brown leather covered with a great patina. The mogoose bso just junk to start with, seat broken. Tires on the Schwinn Mirada to my stbo.
New Departure Hand Book Volume II, 7th Edition, copyright 1951, 3rd printing 1958. ND was a division of General Motors.
A text book/reference for bearings. How to calculate loads on different installations. Mostly about automotive bearings. Last chapter is size and unit conversion charts.
Many copies on ebay. I got this at the local library fund raising book sale.
Tuned this up for a kid today. I tried to test ride it. I made it about 100 feet and had to walk it back. Something was bizarrely wrong. If felt like my leg stopped working or my hip was going to dislocate. Turns out the crank is not 180, more like 170/190 degrees. This why our shop policy is to test ride every bike. There are some problems you will never notice on the work stand. Issues that will be revealed in seconds while riding. I replaced the crank and all is okay. The right side bearing cage was shredded as a bonus.
I've called it "Hip Popper crank". I'm thinking the crank will go on a full size demo bike that needs a name like "most undesirable ride". Here ride this and tell me what you think. Paint it some bright color and brand it "Hip Popper". It could make for a fun bait bike too.
The Huffy Prospect. Est 2006. Light aluminum frame with a nice curve to it. The donor pointed out tires were shot. Well, nope. They still have the flashing on the center line. Just a slick with side knobs. Odd tires. The big problem is the fork. It appears they forgot to put the plastic sliders inside the fork at the factory. Just the least amount of brake pressure and the wheel snaps back hard and if you are going any speed, it will flip you over the bars. Dangerous to ride as is. Cast iron cranks. Rear derailleur is a cheap knock off of a 1970s derailleur. It does have slotted rear dropouts so I'm thinking a coaster brake with a rigid beach bike fork. Remove the decals and cable guides/stops. Go all polished aluminum or repaint a single color. it is a rather small frame despite looking long.
Second bike, frame exchange. Move the wheels, seat, etc from the girls Cranbrook to the Sante Fe.
