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both my GF and I use a lock like this. mine is 5' long and 11#...her's is 4' long & weighs less (she has it at work)

there really is no "normal" spoke length...spoke length is determined by hub diameter, hub width, rim diameter & # of crosses...ANY pattern is possible (within reason)...you just need to determine the correct spoke length

are you asking if you know? not really

if you say so :?

which is why rust is bad, m-kay...rust kills your bike, m-kay

i've been using mine for quite a while (or dharma20 if I can't use an underscore)...many people think it's from the tv show Dharma & Greg...NOPE! I went through a period where Beat Literature was all i read. From that I started 'getting into' Hinduism, Buddhism, Jainism, and Sikhism...all of...

that bike has been a work in progress for about 4 years. 26" wheels front & back...the cranks are stock-length schwinn middleweight...and I only scrape when trying to go up hills standing (too much for the springer!)...normal riding/cornering is ok...

nothin' beats the ride quality of steel rims & major chain-slack...you just need to slow down going into the corners!

the serial number on the imported schwinns doesn't help with the date...starting in about 1974 (1975? 1976?) schwinn stamped the headbadge with a 4 didgit code (first 3 numbers are the day of the year, last didgit is the year...1355 would be 135th day of 1975/1985/1995)...this method becomes a...

I have a bent springer on an old[er] schwinn...it does lower the bike some, and i've have a couple of pedal-scrape issues when using the original cranks and original S-7 rims (26")...as far as riding the bike...it has the bent springer AND apes that are in a "forward" position (i have...

WD40 is probably the worst product to use in ANY stuck bolt/nut situation...PB-Blaster is much better...and the easy-out.

the number on the headbadge would not be a serial number...it's a date-code stamp...4 digits long

are there any numbers stamped on the headbadge? if it's as new as you (and the bike shop think) THAT'S the number you use.

+1 on that...or an ice-pick (careful!) and a screwdriver...or a curvrd pick (for o-rings...again, careful!)...if it (the ring) comes off (or goes back on) too easy it needs to be replaced...but i've only found one i've ever had to replace.

photos of said bike?

+1 on that...buy many!

too much per screw!

not so much...riding rear-round in a very cold climate gives you a new respect for the synthetic bicycle grease...in the summer I use synthetic auto-grade grease, but for winter riding I go with the bike grease. Winter riding in below-zero temps is bad enough w/o having to fight the grease.

the headbadge screws are out there, you just have to look (i started hording them...i have a bunch of new and used) The other item to use is Drive Screws from Fastenal. I think the ones I have are the #2 1/8" (but they might be the #0 1/8"...i need to check) in the Stainless Steel...you can...

This type of wheel requires unusually high spoke tension, since the load is carried by fewer spokes. If a spoke does break, the wheel generally becomes instantly unridable. the big problem with running a low number of spokes is if you're a sidewalk rider...going from...