TRADITIONAL 🅵🅾🅾🅻🅸🅶🅰🅽 - 1930s Elgin Oriole - 2nd Place (Tie) - BUILD JOURNAL

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The elevator bolts were way to wide and have an inverted taper that didn't help in thos application. But the carriage bolts were perfect.

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Another great thing about these butterfly stands is that they allow you to work on the front or read end of the bike with the wheel removed.

These work so much better.

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You can see how the squared section of the bolt fits nicely into the Elgin dropout for added stability.

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Those could be snazzier with some wing nuts!

Not sure if you can tighten three sets of wingnuts so close to each other!! :D

With these nuts so close together, you're bound to cross streams. :D
 
It looks like the shoulder might be bottoming out against the added drop-out on the inboard bolts causing them not to tighten enough against the bike. You might need to grind some of that material off of the square part of the bolt or open up the hole enough for it to pass through. I hope that makes sense.
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Notice the gap between the carriage bolt head and the frame compared to the washer on the hex bolt.

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EDIT: Better yet, take a small square file and square the hole in that piece.
 
It looks like the shoulder might be bottoming out against the added drop-out on the inboard bolts causing them not to tighten enough against the bike. You might need to grind some of that material off of the square part of the bolt or open up the hole enough for it to pass through. I hope that makes sense.
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Notice the gap between the carriage bolt head and the frame compared to the washer on the hex bolt.

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Sharp eye. Yes, I noticed that before the pic. Those forward bolts go through the drilled holes in the extensions. I'm certain that is because the square section of the carriage bolt won't fit in the round hole. Like you said, I'll just need to round the corners a little to make it fit properly and cinch up all the way. It's actually good that the trailing bolt will have some of it's square section acting as a guide when it slides into the OCC dropout channel.
EDIT: Actually, what I may do is file out some corners into the round holes so the the square section of the bolt gets a more stabilized guide into the extension.


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Or some more of the acorn nuts like axle nuts.

That's a possibility. I'll have to see how I want to dress up or dress down this section in the end.
 
Total brainfart on that one. The chainring wouldn't be spaced away from the crank (and the piece that hold the chainring still). The spacers go between the chainring and the bearing race. What a dummy.
Whew! I couldn't follow your reasoning in the original post and thought I was goin' crazy.
 
Whew! I couldn't follow your reasoning in the original post and thought I was goin' crazy.

Yeah, it's not like it will be the first time I've had to add spacers to a crank for chain or frame clearance. My reasoning just left my brain for a short while. :D
 
Square nuts in round holes, or was it round nuts in square holes? Anyway, that's what we do here on RRB! :grin:

As Brian said, you could cap off the threaded ends of the bolts on the outside with acorn nuts, our hardware store has some shallow ones that don't need to thread on very far. The carriage bolts do look like they give you more clearance, Clarence.

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Total brainfart on that one. The chainring wouldn't be spaced away from the crank (and the piece that hold the chainring still). The spacers go between the chainring and the bearing race. What a dummy.
I wasn't going to say anything. :whistle:

I had the neighborhood cruiser guys in my shop back in Mayport Florida showing them how to repack the crank bearings. As I was putting the cranks back together, I realized I had the chain ring on the wrong side! I declared "Breaktime! Pizza and beer!" While they were finishing up I went back and flipped the frame around and corrected it. They noticed something different but couldn't figure out what.
 
It's a shame that this Fire Arrow is 6 hours away. That tank has a perfect patina on it.

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I actually reached out to the seller to see if he would sell the tank and ship it to me, but it was a no go.
No worries, the pic gives me a good baseline example.
 
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Put some spacers behind the chainring and looks like plenty of good clearance now.

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