A Zombie Reborn - the build thread

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Recieved my replacement welder pedal today, two days early! (hooray!) Checked it out, works well. I bought the upgraded version, from SSC, also sold as Nova.

I don’t know if I learned something new in the break, this pedal has better control, or a steadier arc, or the old one was already fritzing out, but compare the top and bottom welds in this photo:
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Both servicable, one way prettier.
Only did some test welds and a few on the frame before the sweat was dripping off me too much to continue. Will do more in the morning.
 
Well, I could lie to you, skip to today’s final photos, and say all went well…

Or,

I could show you this photo:

ADAD4850-77BE-4E90-A868-C59133B1C838.jpeg


…and say the best way to check the security of your welds is to grind them off and see what’s inside,

or,

I could admit I forgot to add the compound bend in the seat stays to allow tire clearance, only discovering it after it was all welded up & cooled down.
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Wow, John! Your perseverance paid off. I really like the shape of your frame design, nice and flowy.
I got lost on all the 'welder speak', but it looks like you got it all worked out.

RaT oN~!
 
Looking good.
I usually don't like notchback frame designs as much, but yours flows well. I don't think you would gain anything adding another set of seatstays coming from the top tube. If flows well as it sits.
 
Thanks. And nope, no more chainstays. She’s painted and 2k clear coated.

Also today brushed the handlebars down to remove the minor surface rust and small blemishes, for the most part. A couple areas were too deep, but I knew that going in. Removed the rust and gave them a coat of clear for protection as well.
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Add the doo-dads to the clear coat convention.
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Nice work on the fender ornament and headbadge
 
Mod Podge, baby! Used that on many a creation BITD. One of our favorites at camp was to gather a piece of natural wood, and lightly burn the grain, then burn the edges of a poem or quote on a thick paper, and then mount to the wood with, you guessed it, Mod Podge. I still have a jar on my 'glues, adhesive sprays, Flex Seal, coatings' shelf!

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Rollin’
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A few things quietly accomplished over the last two weeks:
-Paint (Metalcast Red + 2k clear) had a chance to sit and cure.
-New-to-me wheels arrived, cleaned, greased, blacked out. ThickSlicks applied.

The observant among you might notice I forgot to put the top of the triple tree on for this mock-up. I blame the heat.

I might lower the front to close the space between the front tire & frame. That’ll change the HT angle (currently measured at 27*) so I’ll have to do some testing to see how the steering feels.

Otherwise, find a seat, install brakes, gears, shifters, do-dads & call it a build.
 
Red Metalcast is always cool!
 
John, this frame is beautiful! The metalcast works with the flowy lines and design as well.

I like your plan to lower the front end a bit. It may change the geo some, but that could be compensated by also trying some different handlebars. The only thing I don't love about this build are the bars. A flatter bar would also take away from that 'really tall front end' look. Just a thought.

The disc brakes will really be cool on here! What is your drive train plan again?
 
The disc brakes will really be cool on here! What is your drive train plan again?
7 speed rear with a triple up front. May not be the final config, but it’s what I have. Might just go with the 7 on the rear and only use the middle front sprocket until I can get a single chainring crank.

Put the fork together correctly this morning. Just pushing it around the front wheel is a little flop-happy. Lowering the front end would likely reduce that. I’d have to cut the stancions down, so I want to be sure, first.

I have the cranks on, need to add pedals and a seat to do a good rolling test.
 
I like the idea of the 1 x 7 drive. Very cool. Also will keep that beautiful frame more visible without the fr der, all the chainrings, cables, and extra shifter.

RaT oN~!
 
This morning I added the crankset, cleaned and re-installed the rear sprockets (8-speed, now that I count), installed the brake disks, the front caliper and a lever, and a temporary seat.

Took her for a test roll down the neighborhood street.
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She’s a no-hands bike! 😄 While at slow speeds the slack HT angle tends toward wheel flop, it’s not outlandish, and after a bit of speed rides straight as a rail. Easy S-turns down the road with only body language.

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I’m a tall dude, and here the bike is adjusted to my height, with close to proper leg extension and the handlebars at a cruiser comfortable height.

For Looks 👀 there are some things I could do for cool factor, but for the ride, I think she’s a winner! 😎

More to do yet, of course.
 
I bet that steel frame rides nice! Those thinner tubes in the rear triangle might even give a bit to really accentuate the 'steel is real' ride feel.

I'm just curious, John. What are the dimensions in my diagram below?

A - Effective reach (center of seat to where you grab the handlebars, on a horizontal plane)
B - Bottom bracket height (flat ground to center of BB shell)
C - Chainstay length ( rear axle to center of BB shell)

johns build.jpg
 
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A) 28”
B) 10-3/8”
C) 17-1/2”
add’l : WB 48”, Seat tube 21-1/2”, Seat height 38”, Standover height 30”

For comparison, my P-40 Pilot
DE5419F4-FBA1-4F44-97AD-6DFA292BD0B5.jpeg


A) 27”
B) 10-3/4”
C) 19”
add’l : WB 42”, Seat tube 19”, Seat height 38”, Standover height 30”
 
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