Sorry, I forgot to answer the following:
I rebuilt the Bendix hub from my BO18 bicycle. I checked every part for numbers and/or dates. But havent seen anything.
Coasterbrake hub builds
- Thread starter BartRidesEternal
- Start date
Help Support Rat Rod Bikes Bicycle Forum:
I rebuilt the Bendix hub from my BO18 bicycle. I checked every part for numbers and/or dates. But havent seen anything.
Thanks, I've looked for years and never have found any data on the year of manufacture. Mine is skiptooth but I can't find any data on the years they may have made those.
I might join thecabe.com for information and dating. I have lots more old and antique stuff where I can only guess the date.
- Joined
- Mar 3, 2021
- Messages
- 493
- Reaction score
- 796
The Bendix hubs are impossible toi date other then the very first year red band 1962/63 as it has a differently shaped dust cap on the drive side. The first Bendix coaster brakes were smooth shell and came with either 1/2 or 1 inch pitch. Some are not marked most say Bendix on them.
I was going to recommend joining THECABE for information on earlier bikes.
I believe I read on there somewhere that Morrow became Bendix at some point
after WW2? I could be mistaken here. I'm into 30's-40's ballooners so it's been a
great resource website.
- Joined
- Mar 3, 2021
- Messages
- 493
- Reaction score
- 796
After the war New Departure became Mattatuck, Bendix always Bendix. Not sure what happened to Morrow, they are the superior hub.
Hi guys,
I worked on some hubs last week.
I completely disassembled the 1940/41 New Departure model D (probably with Mattatuck model E driver).
And cleaned plus assembled the Shimano CB-E110 with custom spoke flanges.
New Departure model D:
Like new!
Left to right:
New Departure model D.
1946 Bendix from Canada (unused).
1952 Torpedo.
193? 194? J.C. Higgins.
Custom Shimano CB-E110:
The parts were dirty. Brake cleaner / degreaser helps with the sticky goo!
This is strange
Completely worn. There are no moving parts there...
But I'm working on some brake arm designs!
Work in progress but check it out:
Rocket style.
Let me know your thoughts on the brake arm.
Thanks for watching!
I worked on some hubs last week.
I completely disassembled the 1940/41 New Departure model D (probably with Mattatuck model E driver).
And cleaned plus assembled the Shimano CB-E110 with custom spoke flanges.
New Departure model D:
Like new!
Left to right:
New Departure model D.
1946 Bendix from Canada (unused).
1952 Torpedo.
193? 194? J.C. Higgins.
Custom Shimano CB-E110:
The parts were dirty. Brake cleaner / degreaser helps with the sticky goo!
This is strange
Completely worn. There are no moving parts there...
But I'm working on some brake arm designs!
Work in progress but check it out:
Rocket style.
Let me know your thoughts on the brake arm.
Thanks for watching!
Attachments
MattiThundrrr
Rattus All Terrainus
Reminds me of the Lego space logo. Love it love it love it
I altered the arm a little bit:
Check this out:
Original arm is on the hub.
Fits like a glove!
Now, deburring and painting remains.
Maybe the "Lego Space" theme is not a bad idea @MattiThundrrr ! Thanks!
You work is great. Someday I would like to do a Lakewood traction bar (slapper bar) themed brake arm.
The last picture is a pair of "ladder" traction bars, these would be cool in miniature.
The last picture is a pair of "ladder" traction bars, these would be cool in miniature.
I'm seeing it too. Do that. Definitely.
Wow! Looks cool!
Is that to 'stiffen' the rear axle? I imagine when you are burning rubber, the rear axle starts vibrating? I'm just guessing here.
I'm very willing to make a model and dxf file and send it / share it here.
Thanks guys!
Last edited:
The top bar is to prevent a leaf spring from wrapping because of the torque. The rubber snubber in the front is adjustable.
The ladder bar is for a coil spring car. It trys to prevent wheel hop and transfer weight.
The ladder bar is for a coil spring car. It trys to prevent wheel hop and transfer weight.
Last edited:
You're right, the vibrating is called "wheel hop" and traction bars try to reduce or eliminate it.
I deburred all of the arms and painted the first:
After a matte black paint.
Clear coat.
Batrod Ratman!
Painting the red with a brush instead of a spray can would have been easier.
After a matte black paint.
Clear coat.
Batrod Ratman!
Painting the red with a brush instead of a spray can would have been easier.
Painted the other arms metallic red and white.
Tried masking and making a line, but the black paint was too thick for the thin lines. Tomorrow another try! Maybe I could use some thinner.
Left: The stripes came off partially.
The right arm had a larger/thicker strips and was ok.
Tried masking and making a line, but the black paint was too thick for the thin lines. Tomorrow another try! Maybe I could use some thinner.
Left: The stripes came off partially.
The right arm had a larger/thicker strips and was ok.
Went a little better this time. The masking tape lets a drop through sometimes, so thats a challenge. But I'm happy so far 
Will look good with a clear coat!
Will look good with a clear coat!
Hi huys, I found a stranded project for sale and decided to take a shot. Can't say when I start with my chaos of projects, but I'm certainly very excited!
Number of teeth.
-not mine- This is from a "BRIK" bicycle.
I ordered the missing front sprocket (bottom right on the picture) at the company brik. With a risk/chance that the sprockets do not fit, but I believe they have the same sort of teeth.
The part I would have to fabricate is the bottombracket with attachment.
I hope I can utilize the US one piece crank for this, but we'll see when the BRIK sprocket arrives one of these days. The sprocket was pretty cheap.
In the BRIK bikes these front sprockets and bearings run in a oil bath.
Number of teeth.
-not mine- This is from a "BRIK" bicycle.
I ordered the missing front sprocket (bottom right on the picture) at the company brik. With a risk/chance that the sprockets do not fit, but I believe they have the same sort of teeth.
The part I would have to fabricate is the bottombracket with attachment.
I hope I can utilize the US one piece crank for this, but we'll see when the BRIK sprocket arrives one of these days. The sprocket was pretty cheap.
In the BRIK bikes these front sprockets and bearings run in a oil bath.
a shaft drive bicycle is on my bucket list.
- Joined
- Jul 30, 2013
- Messages
- 1,960
- Reaction score
- 2,753
For that style of intricate pattern, I'd suggest that frisket paper is superior to common masking tape. Find it in art supply stores. It's likely to eliminate any pesky bleed-through and deliver crisp edges.Went a little better this time. The masking tape lets a drop through sometimes, so thats a challenge. But I'm happy so far
Will look good with a clear coat!
View attachment 262415
