Cobrafreak's board track racer project, has ended

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I got the transmission!

It was mis delivered to the same street number but different street. Haha. Ok, I have it sitting on the engine and the engine sitting on the frame:
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In order for pedal clearance on both sides and the final drive chain to perfectly hit the rear sprocket strait the engine block centerline needs to be 2.5 inches farther out the right hand side. Hey, valve adjustments will be doable with the engine in the frame.
 
Re: Cobrafreak's board track racer project, never ends!

A head like on The Dixie Flyer would look awesome
http://youtu.be/3ugqoQFza-I
I do have a question you may be able to answer. The Dixie Flyer uses a GC160 and yours is a GX200 clone. From what i can work out is the difference between GC and GX is the GC has plastic guards and the GX is a more robust model with metal shrouding. So the motors are the same.

So if they are the same motors why is his base plate at 90 degrees to his barrell and yours is about 45 degrees. Is this because his is the OHV model or is yours as well? I wonder which one is that im looking at.

Also wondering if you have plans to fill the space behind the motor between the base plate and the seat tube, or maybe cutting off the extra material off the base plate where you would now fill the motor with oil. And maybe some half moon shaped, machined mark finished base plate alloy covers under the motor would add a real nice touch too.

Do you plan on a rope start? And one final thing (LOL), are you going to make a primary cover or leave it exposed. It almost looks too nice to put a cover over it. Your ankles may disagree.....
 
Re: Cobrafreak's board track racer project, never ends!

harry76 said:
A head like on The Dixie Flyer would look awesome
http://youtu.be/3ugqoQFza-I
I do have a question you may be able to answer. The Dixie Flyer uses a GC160 and yours is a GX200 clone. From what i can work out is the difference between GC and GX is the GC has plastic guards and the GX is a more robust model with metal shrouding. So the motors are the same.
-The GX is commercial grade with bigger bearings, cast iron cylinder, gear driven cam. The GC is homeowner grade with aluminum cylinder, smaller bearings, and I don't know how the cam is driven on that one.

So if they are the same motors why is his base plate at 90 degrees to his barrell and yours is about 45 degrees. Is this because his is the OHV model or is yours as well? I wonder which one is that im looking at.
-I don't think they are the same engines. The GX series has the HUGE aftermarket following with speed parts up the wazoo. Very popular in Cart racing.

Also wondering if you have plans to fill the space behind the motor between the base plate and the seat tube, or maybe cutting off the extra material off the base plate where you would now fill the motor with oil. And maybe some half moon shaped, machined mark finished base plate alloy covers under the motor would add a real nice touch too.
-I have to put a carburetor and air cleaner back there. I'm doing alloy covers under the engine. You read my mind!
Do you plan on a rope start?
-I was talking about fabbing a kick start, but now that I see the layout I need to think more about it. I'll probably do pull start until something else hits me. I know the GX engine series has an electric start option.
And one final thing (LOL), are you going to make a primary cover or leave it exposed. It almost looks too nice to put a cover over it. Your ankles may disagree.....
-I was going to leave it exposed. I hate the cover that it came with. Too ugly to photograph! Right now I'm really concentrating on getting it together and running, then I can take care of the style stuff later.
 
Engine mounting has begun

This is how the engine will sit. Everything is just tack welded on and additional gussets need to me made, but everything fits. I painted the head with high heat black exhaust paint. It looks old school and it will help dissipate heat.
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IMG00492-20110513-2226.jpg
 
Re: Cobrafreak's board track racer project, never ends!

I love it. Really really do. In fact after seeing the Dixie Flyer, Lurkers Boardtrack and now this.... Yours really inspired me to do similar so i bought a genuine Honda GX160 today, i payed a lot more then i planned but still cheaper then a Chinagirl kit, and thinking i might put it in my Indian instead of the 3HP Briggs. Id like to try a CVT also, does the kit you use good for 5.5hp? Ill have to save up for a CVT but ill be able to watch and learn from you. I promise i wont steal any ideas..... well maybe a couple LOL. Ill be interested to see how your brakes hold up as i have the exact same brake setup.

I really like it with the motor black. This is gonna be a blast to ride. Keep the pics coming. Im liking what i see. Its just a perfect fit.... Do your pedals clear as is? And im interested in what you do with the flywheel.
 
Re: Cobrafreak's board track racer project, never ends!

looks like a torq-a-verter like yours will set me back about $270 delivered to Australia. What model is yours?..... i better start saving. Maybe you will have yours going and can comment on whether it is worth the money over a jackshaft that would be cheaper but only single speed. And i guess a geared hub would be as dear and probably less reliable? So the CVT is probably a very wise investment.
 
Re: Cobrafreak's board track racer project, never ends!

harry76 said:
looks like a torq-a-verter like yours will set me back about $270 delivered to Australia. What model is yours?..... i better start saving. Maybe you will have yours going and can comment on whether it is worth the money over a jackshaft that would be cheaper but only single speed. And i guess a geared hub would be as dear and probably less reliable? So the CVT is probably a very wise investment.

Good news Harry, the torque converter will in fact work with the GX160. You would use the model 1002 from AGK as it uses 40/41 chain. 415 will not work on the torque converter, but 41 chain will and also on your rear China Girl sprocket. You can get 3 meter lengths of 41 chain and a master link for a song on the web or at lawn and garden tractor supplies. If you have a 415 chain breaker tool all you need to do is thin the rivet shank on a grinder slightly and the chain breaker will now also work for 41 chain. I chatted with someone who had the torque verter on his build and he has nothing but praise for it. I really recommend upgrading the connecting rod and the valve springs in the engine. They are the weak link and you have the option of taking the rev limiter out for 6500 rpm.
 
Re: Cobrafreak's board track racer project, never ends!

\ Ill be interested to see how your brakes hold up as i have the exact same brake setup.

-You and I basically grew up in a disk brake world, unless you drove air cooled Volkswagens, Lol. Everyone drives as fast and as close as they can and brakes to the limit every time. You can't do this with drums and thus we need to change the way we think when we operate a drum brake bike. The drum brakes are basically what a vintage bike had and the hp is now about the same with the GX engines. I don't think that the early models even had a front brake, just rear only. You just need to give yourself lots of space between you and the vehicle ahead and give yourself "outs" to escape in an emergency. Disk brakes are what you want to use if you are going for performance. You just have to adjust your driving skills to accommodate.

I really like it with the motor black. This is gonna be a blast to ride. Keep the pics coming. Im liking what i see. Its just a perfect fit.... Do your pedals clear as is? And im interested in what you do with the flywheel.[/quote]

-The pedals do clear, with the extra-wide crank I got at motor bike engines. Without this crank nothing would have worked. Be forewarned though, the crank is set up for loose cup bearings and an extra wide bottom bracket housing that I have no idea how someone would make work. I have never seen a bottom bracket wide enough to accommodate a spindle this wide . I had to grind the ball races off the spindle and push on a short piece of 1" gas pipe as a spacer for my cartridge bearing bottom bracket cups. It works great. You will need to mod it to make it work.

-I have the flywheel on the engine in the pictures. It's the AGK billet aluminum flywheel with fins. The shiny thing on the right hand side. It has a magnet that is impossible to fly off and can't rust like cast iron. The fins look nice and I have the option of running an abbreviated version of a fan shroud if my temps go too high.
 
Re: Cobrafreak's board track racer project, never ends!

Mines a genuine Honda GX160 so i wonder if ineed to do the same mods or whether the Honda is already up to the task?

And i drive my 1964 Valiant AP5 wagon daily which is four wheel drum brake and it stops just fine, so i agree with you there. Exactly like you said you adjust your driving. ......Not to mention disc brakes are hard to make vintage looking.
P6150095_01.jpg
 
Re: Cobrafreak's board track racer project, never ends!

Are you leaving the fins on the flywheel? If so going by these pictures it looks like they would be right in line for taking your toes off while feet are on pedals? Or is the mini shroud going to cover it? Once again, now its that flywheel lthat looks too nice to cover up.... Or are the photos just deceiving?
If not steel cap boots may be advisable. But worth it for such a sweet looking ride. If they were totally safe they wouldnt be as fun now would they?
 
Re: Cobrafreak's board track racer project, never ends!

harry76 said:
Are you leaving the fins on the flywheel? If so going by these pictures it looks like they would be right in line for taking your toes off while feet are on pedals? Or is the mini shroud going to cover it? Once again, now its that flywheel lthat looks too nice to cover up.... Or are the photos just deceiving?
If not steel cap boots may be advisable. But worth it for such a sweet looking ride. If they were totally safe they wouldnt be as fun now would they?

Yes, I'm leaving the fins on the flywheel. I could have got one without fins though if I wanted to.

Remember, the pedals are not connected to the engine so I don't need to pedal unless the engine is off. If I keep my right fool to the rear or down my foot will be far away.

The flywheel looks really nice. Billet is great.

I'm not running a cover on the left so the belt and pulleys are all exposed. I guess stuff were dangerous back then and it was survival of the fittest, or most aware. :D
 
Re: Cobrafreak's board track racer project, never ends!

Yeah you may not have to pedal but sometimes i know i find myself moving the pedals to enter different corners. At least you have drum brakes and not a coaster brake so pedal positioning isnt as critical.....
 
Re: Cobrafreak's board track racer project, never ends!

Hi Cobra... Hope your Indian is coming along nicely. Just wondering do you know what carb you will be using?
 
Re: Cobrafreak's board track racer project, never ends!

Mikuni 22mm. It's like the china girl carb but biller and nicer.

Made the engine mounts complete. Bullet proof. Guaranteed not to ever twist, bend, or come apart. I built it like an airplane frame.

IMG00496-20110515-1205.jpg

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Re: Cobrafreak's board track racer project, never ends!

Nice job. That looks cool and very rigid. Are you going to leave the mounts exposed or cover them up with aluminium covers?

And whats with the radiator hose? Is that a temporary exhaust?

I got my motor yesterday and it sounds nice. Im wondering where the carb would go as the inlet port is located on the side and front of the motor. Are you going to run the carb on the front of the motor ? Or make a manifold that places the carb at the rear of the engine? And would a manifold that long affect performance?
 
Re: Cobrafreak's board track racer project, never ends!

Probably exposed. It looks more technical with all the tubes.
The carb goes on the end of the hose and puts it in the rear of the engine and out of the way. If I didn't have the hose the carb would be on the far right sticking out in the open.
 

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