Cobrafreak's board track racer project, has ended

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Re: Cobrafreak's board track racer project

Apparently you should break in these engines with some extra oil and some easy riding..
I don't know, but other riders/builders claim that running a regular mix and flog it from the start is better.. something with how the piston rings sets in the cylinder..

And Cobra, peel of those stickers from the rims.. :D And if you have those "fatfrank" logos on the side of the tires you can allways go over them with some tan paint. adds to the mystique.. :D
 
Re: Cobrafreak's board track racer project

Motopecane said:
That is crazy that 18:1 is a high ratio for these motors 32:1 is normal for my moped...?
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The factory directions is two tanks of fuel that are 18 parts gas to one part oil, then run it normally 32 parts gas to one part oil. 18:1 is Higher than 32:1. Higher meaning more oil to less gasoline. It's all how you say it. The bigger the first number the more gasoline to oil. This is the reverse of what I originally thought. I thought the bigger the first number the more oil to gas, hahaha. It is working really well as the engine is getting easier to start with each ride and the power is creeping up.
 
Re: Cobrafreak's board track racer project

K-dregg said:
Apparently you should break in these engines with some extra oil and some easy riding..
I don't know, but other riders/builders claim that running a regular mix and flog it from the start is better.. something with how the piston rings sets in the cylinder..

And Cobra, peel of those stickers from the rims.. :D And if you have those "fatfrank" logos on the side of the tires you can allways go over them with some tan paint. adds to the mystique.. :D
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It would differ on the construction of your engine probably. An engine with a chrome lined steel cylinder probably has a different break in procedure than a engine with a chrome lined aluminum cylinder due to different expansions and cooling properties of the different metals. I'm willing to bet that if you take two identical motors and run one at 32:1 oil and the other say, 29:1 oil, and run them both at identical loads and rpms, that the one with the higher oil content will be in better shape after a long term test. 2 cycles run HOT and even though they are air cooled they are also oil cooled to an extent. It would get to the point eventually that it would probably not make a big difference. The thing I'm thinking is it would be better to run too much oil than not enough, because not enough would run hotter and wear faster. Yeah, I need to get the stickers off of the rims. Forgot, thnx.
 
Re: Cobrafreak's board track racer project

Though it may seem counter intuative, too much oil is not good. It actually leans out the mixture, it's inefficient and has higher ignition temp requirements, while simultaneously not producing as much heat. The lean mixture and higher ring pressure is used to seat the rings through controlled rapid wear during break-in. I've use 50-1 Amsoil or Stihl in all 2 cycle tool motors for many years, no matter what they say, and to no discernible ill effects. Please note that I AM NOT recommending that you run anything other than manufacturer's spec.. Any changes to the airflow (intake and exhaust), will also change air/fuel mix requirements
 
Re: Cobrafreak's board track racer project

Great job :wink: Looks like a real Indian 8)
 
Re: Cobrafreak's board track racer project

haha right I don't know what I was talking about with the ratio I should have known that doit!
 
Re: Cobrafreak's board track racer project

Thanks for the good info on the oil ratio business. If it's off the engine will not last, that is for sure. Well, yesterday I went for a ride and I noticed a leak in the fuel tank! Just one tiny pinhole leak at the top, but a leak none the less. This is a zero tolerance issue. I called Caswell and they said it was not the fault of their product, it was my fault for not following the directions. I said I painstakingly read the directions three times and did EXACTLY what they said to do. They said it was still may fault, so I basically said , I will never use their product again. The good news is I went to TAP Plastics, which is all over the nation and they have a really nice alternative product that is almost half the price, so I already treated the tank area where the leak was and all is well. I took this event as the Gods of Internal Combustion telling me to do the finish work NOW, so I am now doing the bodywork. I found a better alternative to Bondo. It is sold at Pep Boys by Cargroom and is called "Metal Fusion". Unlike Bondo, it is Aluminum based, and you mix in the hardener and apply like Bondo, but it is permanent and expands and contracts like the steel it is covering, is water proof, and works like lead without the health problems.
bodywork.jpg
 
Re: Cobrafreak's board track racer project

so Tapp plastics carries tank liner kits? I might have to check that out for when I go to make my tank. Thanks for the info, I'm sorry to hear about you having to deal with bad customer service.
 
Re: Cobrafreak's board track racer project

Motopecane said:
so Tapp plastics carries tank liner kits? I might have to check that out for when I go to make my tank. Thanks for the info, I'm sorry to hear about you having to deal with bad customer service.
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Yes, TAP Plastics has a Chemical Resistant Epoxy Resin which is impervious to Gasoline, which basically is fuel tank liner material. They have a list of the different resins that are applicable to different applications, and they are listed from bad, poor, good, and excellent for different applications. They have several different Resins and several different hardeners. By mixing the different Resins and Hardeners you come up with different chemical compounds. Basically there are Poly Resins and Epoxy Resins. Epoxy Resin is what you want, and the hardener is what makes it the fuel tank liner, thus the "excellent" rating on their list of applications. I also noticed that the longer the set time or time you have to work with the chemical before it starts to harden, the harder, stronger, more chemical resistant it appears to be. If you were to construct a gas tank out of nothing but fiberglass mesh and resin, this is exactly what you would use to make it with. They call it Marine Grade #314 Resin with #143 Marine Grade hardener slow. This would be the equivalent of Caswell tank liner and is half the price. You mix it 2 parts resin to 1 part hardener. They sell mixing cups with all the measurement graduations on it so it's easy to get the right ratios. Make sure the air temperature is warm enough. I work in a heated area. Mix for two minutes, pour in, rotate slowly to cover everything you need covered, and if you have an obvious leak prone area, let it sit and harden on that area, otherwise let the excess pour out. Let it dry for 48 hours before Gas is added, or give it a second coat. Rock hard.
 
Re: Cobrafreak's board track racer project

Nice I will have to check that out when I go to build my tank. I think there is a Tapp plastics not too far from my house. Thanks for the info and I can't wait to see the tank painted.
 
Re: Cobrafreak's board track racer project

allapart.jpg

I tore down the whole bike today. Cleaning up the welds and I want to add a few little things like cable hangers so I don't need to use zip ties and things like that. As far as the body work is concerned, I'm not really out for perfection. I want little flaws and imperfections left in to appear like years of use. I don't want a brand new looking old bike. I'm just taking care of the big obvious things. My goal is to have this thing painted and put together by Thanksgiving. We will see if I can do it by deadline.
 
Re: Cobrafreak's board track racer project

Amazingly cool build!! When I grow up I want to build one just like this!! 8) Can’t wait to see it painted!!
 
Re: Cobrafreak's board track racer project

Paint sneak peek. Everything is going smoothly.
paint.jpg


paint2.jpg


Here is a picture of a 1912 Indian board track bike that is restored shown for color matching purposes:
INDIAN-1913-BOARD.jpg


Here is an unrestored original barn find to show the faded look of original paint:
11Indian_tank_left.jpg
 
Re: Cobrafreak's board track racer project

Dboy9887 said:
I love that cobra you got in the back there! is that an original?
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No, it's a replica Cobra. It can keep up an original though. Its still a 2000 lb sport car. The power to weight ratio is off the hook. It's best 1/4 mile is 12.2 @ 125mph with street tires. It can do 152mph top speed. Although it is really scary to go that fast in an open cockpit car. I would not recommend it. It went for a ride one time with a local exotic car club that had Ferraris and Lamborghinis and around town and in the country they could not pull away from me. On the freeway they could because they have an aerodynamic advantage. The Cobra is like a brick sailing through the air. Not very efficient. But it's good looking.
 
Re: Cobrafreak's board track racer project

Once walking down the street, I heard something like a really loud thunder coming from beneath the ground. It was a cobra coming up from an underground parking. I fell in love with it right there, such a beautiful sound, amazing. I´d love to drive one of those some day.

Are you living the paint as new? cause I think it would look cool faded as if it were old, "unrestored".
 
Re: Cobrafreak's board track racer project

Gdcast said:
Once walking down the street, I heard something like a really loud thunder coming from beneath the ground. It was a cobra coming up from an underground parking. I fell in love with it right there, such a beautiful sound, amazing. I´d love to drive one of those some day.

Are you leaving the paint as new? cause I think it would look cool faded as if it were old, "unrestored".
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I don't know yet. As it sits it is in a "sympathetic" build state, which is it isn't being overly finished. I purposely left intentional flaws like waves in the tank to make it look like it's been around the block. I know if I don't wash it it will get grungy :lol:. After riding the bike for as little as I did the faux engine plates had oil dripping or spray on them from the crank case or exhaust and they were so dirty I just let them soak in the solvent tank. I imagine they would get that way again. Also, the rear wheel/hub/tire was dirty from chain oil. Working on the bike with dirty hands and grabbing the cream tires was bad idea. I can clean them, but if I didn't they would certainly look old. I wouldn't mind a worn look if it was reversible. I am going to look at different things I can do to give the illusion of wear that will not damage the underlying paint. Don't know if I want to be so bold as to wet sand through the clear coat and paint to the primer.
 
Re: Cobrafreak's board track racer project

Yeah to much perfection kills the look i think,all those little flaws gives it personality.. I did my btr with a regular paintbrush just to get that "built in a barn" feel..

I think you should go for the sanded down look, you can always redo it if you dont like it.. :D
 
Re: Cobrafreak's board track racer project

K-dregg said:
Yeah to much perfection kills the look i think,all those little flaws gives it personality.. I did my btr with a regular paintbrush just to get that "built in a barn" feel..

I think you should go for the sanded down look, you can always redo it if you dont like it.. :D
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I read on the internet that if you mix brown liquid shoe polish with water and pour on something it adds a major patina that looks 100 years old and it can come off with a major cleaning. I might try something like that.
 

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