hand lever coaster brake?

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Falstaff said:
So I take it this replaces the cog and allows you to put a freewheel on. How would you then brake?
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Well we are talking about adding a second cog to that same hub... so would have dual sprokets side by side..
My idea w 808 was that thw drive chain would remain a freewheel, it would be the outside sprocket. The inside sproket would be a coaster, its sole purpose would be to activate the coaster exactly as the front of the posted on the teal bike fork..
I am way into it now bud...
Went from not noticable to a crazy drive train..
Full blown awsome.
 
I'm picking up what you're putting down.
The coaster cog would have a chain going to the pull arm, but I think it would need a reverse free wheel. That way it could spin free in drive mode (pedaling), then would engage the brake when the lever was pulled back.... Right?
 
Screenshot_2016-09-12-14-55-15.png
here is the bike hub that 808 and i had chatted briefly about that this thread brought up look at the dual drive chains all the way back.. instead of the inner drive going to crank, that would attach simmilar to teal bike off either stay with a spring return...
Falstaff said:
I'm picking up what you're putting down.
The coaster cog would have a chain going to the pull arm, but I think it would need a reverse free wheel. That way it could spin free in drive mode (pedaling), then would engage the brake when the lever was pulled back.... Right?
Click to expand...
The drive cog needs be freewheel because only the coaster cog would opperate the brake.. the free wheel can adapt to the hub as 808 was saying.. it wouldnt do anything on the free wheel but could use free wheel to drive while leavingbus the coaster for brake purposes only. Its cain and cable would be identicle to the teal bike.. spring return to disengauge the brake... it would act as if you were coasting and not peddeling as u used the freewheel theoretically.

This came from an idea of being able to do the same with side by side freewheels to hide and ditch a jack shaft set up to put power on the right.
Im into it.. i think could do some cool stuff. And it looks really interesting.. the tandum was full roach.. still was thinking buy it to cut out the hub only.
 
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Just for the record, those threaded drivers were a mod for bmx bikes BITD; it allowed us to run the hub as a freecoaster without having to spend real money. The braking came via rim brakes.

My idea for this application would be to run a fixed cog and, via an off-label use of a BB cup, stack a freewheel outboard of the fixed cog on the same driver. The inner fixed cog would handle "braking" duties with a hand brake and would need a cable, a length of chain, and a return spring, much like the front coaster setup on the blue muscle bike pictured earlier in this thread. The outer freewheel would handle "drive" duties. B/c i imagine this brake would be more of an auxiliary drag brake than a real bike-stopper, i'd want to run a rear rim brake too....

Theoretically, of course. It seems unlkely that i'd build this... but i am going to consult with my machinist buddy tomorrow, to see what he thinks of boring out the BB cup and grinding down the lockring threads....
 
I have this on my worksman trike.
b3d3450f205305554a6ce1a4967329b5.jpg

Although I'm not sure it would work. I could use it as a jackshaft, but lining the chain up would be tricky.

Sent from my LGL34C using Tapatalk
 
Ok see how the inner sproket is mounted to the hub flang, ok so imagine that moved outsude the drive cog so the flange was still able to be strung ;) whats the drive chain and coaster cog now on that hub would be used for the brakes. The question left is how to hook a freewheel to the right side that could still drive the axle.

For my application its easier as there is no coaster involved.. just 2 freewheels on a hub.
 
Bicycle808 said:
Just for the record, those threaded drivers were a mod for bmx bikes BITD; it allowed us to run the hub as a freecoaster without having to spend real money. The braking came via rim brakes.

My idea for this application would be to run a fixed cog and, via an off-label use of a BB cup, stack a freewheel outboard of the fixed cog on the same driver. The inner fixed cog would handle "braking" duties with a hand brake and would need a cable, a length of chain, and a return spring, much like the front coaster setup on the blue muscle bike pictured earlier in this thread. The outer freewheel would handle "drive" duties. B/c i imagine this brake would be more of an auxiliary drag brake than a real bike-stopper, i'd want to run a rear rim brake too....

Theoretically, of course. It seems unlkely that i'd build this... but i am going to consult with my machinist buddy tomorrow, to see what he thinks of boring out the BB cup and grinding down the lockring threads....
Click to expand...
Why don't we just cut down a coaster driver and weld on a BB cup to mount the freewheel to?
If my health was not as bad as it is at the moment, I would be out there trying this now...

Luke.
 
pholTmonx said:
Thread win... We beat Luke to an idea... now who builds it first:crazy2:
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I have to admit, the first couple of pages I had no idea what you guys were talking about, it wasn't until 808's post that it all suddenly clicked.
It's a cool idea, I want to see someone do it... :thumbsup:

Luke.
 
So simply put, replacing the snap ring with threads and a freewheel? That would allow derailleur gears wouldn't it?
 
deorman said:
So simply put, replacing the snap ring with threads and a freewheel? That would allow derailleur gears wouldn't it?
Click to expand...
Yep, you could do that too...

Luke.
 
cman said:
Not sure that derailers and coasterbrakes work well together though this may be different.

This talk is making think me about RetroDirect!
http://kentsbike.blogspot.com/2008/11/building-retro-direct-drive-bicycle.html

100_2781.JPG
Click to expand...

The retro-direct homebrew recipe is basically what I'm talking about doing, as Clancy pictured right here! The derailer system doesn't work with the backpedalling required for a real coaster brake, but having a separate, lever-actuated version might work. It might cause a bit of hiccups; not sure, but it won't be completely unworkable like with a real coaster.

Biggest challenges will be with modifying the driver, and getting a lever that'll pull enough to actuate the break with any authority.
 
Force shouldn't be a problem. We're talking about putting the driver on its own freewheel, so it doesn't need to rotate more than the travel required to lock up the brake, so I don't see a reason why a lever couldn't be welded to the drive cog and an extension rod run over to a larger hand lever that would be within easy reach of the rider. You could make the drive lever, say, six inches long and the hand lever could be whatever—two, three feet, even. You would probably want a good spoke protector, though.

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