hand lever coaster brake?

Rat Rod Bikes Bicycle Forum

Help Support Rat Rod Bikes Bicycle Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Force shouldn't be a problem. We're talking about putting the driver on its own freewheel, so it doesn't need to rotate more than the travel required to lock up the brake, so I don't see a reason why a lever couldn't be welded to the drive cog and an extension rod run over to a larger hand lever that would be within easy reach of the rider. You could make the drive lever, say, six inches long and the hand lever could be whatever—two, three feet, even. You would probably want a good spoke protector, though.

-> /
__/
/ /
Wait I'm lost.. why wouldn't a set up like the teal bikes front coaster still be able o control the coaster hub?
Or did I just get lost in the discussion :(
 
Good point re: the dork disc/spoke protector; there's prbably a lot of room for that brake-chain to derail and wreck shop. Maybe it'd be wise to weld or otherwise permanently fuse the chain to the inner cog? Or maybe think "outside the box" in terms of how, exactly, we'd engage the coaster brake?

As for the lever's travel, you're right: it wouldn't have to be huge or anything, but a tandard MTB lever probably wouldn't do the trick, either. I've seen cool levers for front Coaster brakes made from gate hardware.... the thread is on RRB somewhere...
 
Rod and lever control would be less likely a problem with spoke destruction as it would have to be bent into the wheel and that would be a difficult thing to have happen without it being a small part of a worse problem (like getting T-boned by a car).
 
Try putting too much extra stuff on the hub and you will need a longer axle and spread the frame. Putting the brake and drive on the same side can maybe be done, but SHOULD it be done?

Oh, this should definitely, absolutely NOT be done, at all. Especially when Sturmey Archer sells X-RD rears for like $80. But these kinds of goofy projects just get my gear turning, figuratively speaking.

TBH, my scheme won't call for all that much extra axle on the right side at all. My main concern will be about the durability of the kludged and stacked rear sprockets. That, and what will almost certainly be incredibly weak braking performance.
 
I just spoke with Harry; we met up at the bikeshare. Together, we felt up one of my Velosteel hubs; we probed it with some digital calipers, and made faces at each other while nodding and trying to impart a sense of great understanding. We poked around in the bottom bracket cup. We uselessly jammed all the bits together, making crude grunting noises like cave dwellers trying to make fire out of primitive steel bicycle components. We used a calculator, tugged our beards, and sighed deeply.

After all of that, Harry told me that he thinks there will be enough steel left to make it happen. And, he probably will. Updates to follow.
 
This is the lines I was thinking along:

upload_2016-9-26_22-18-45.png
 
Yeah, there should be more of a forward angle to it to facilitate a pull back (though, the hand lever could extend beyond the pivot on the downtube and the shift linkage could pass under the bottom bracket for a push preference). The tires could also use more roundness.
 
Would need be from underside of cog to pull for brake action... Need counter clockwise rotation to enguage also would need to attach below he lever pivot. Or you are going for turbo thrusters???
*OK now I see duchess design worked but it's a push action to brake not pull.. that was my presumption that confused me.
But yeah still this design could be use to brake and give a torque boost:)
 
Last edited:
Let's say the wheel locks up, then there's a built in nut cracker.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Back
Top