Hawg Wylde, my 1962 Schwinn Typhoon 20" Pig Bike Build Off #17 Class 1 Entry.

[Bike from the Dead]

I really love the whole attitude with Hawg Wylde! Building it with mostly period-correct parts, along with some wild choices in parts, and on a cantilever straight bar Schwinn no less! I especially love the flipper Schwinn springer and the Spaceliner chain guard! Your whole drivetrain setup sounds absolutely wild WYLDE! I'm excited to see the end result!

One thought though: is it possible to adjust the Spaceliner chain guard so it's parallel to the cantilever straight bars on the frame? I feel like that small change could go a long way in enhancing the look of your bike.

 

[Oldbikeguy1960]

I will be adjusting it once everything is assembled. I will be using rubber pads to insulate the metal from the paint while I am doing so.
I hope to get it more in tune with the parts and frame as a whole.
There will be a red or red/orange/yellow panel behind the chainguard inside the louvers like the Huffy Rail Flaming Stack guard.
Thanks for your compliments, comments and suggestions!

 

[RustyGold]

Yes it will be man, it is somewhat complex and will require 3 shifters total.

Lightning Rods!

 

[MattiThundrrr]

Haha I like how impressed she is with his shifter rods

 

[Oldbikeguy1960]

Does anyone here remember the story behind the casting of the Liberty Bell? It broke on its initial test ring and was cast twice by Jon Pass and John Stow using different alloys but to no avail.
No matter how many times they tried it was never perfect.
Jump to the present day.
Hawg Wylde has been oainted 3 times. If the first time not scratched before the
1K Clear was applied it wouldve been perfect.
My can of red Metalcast paint was a few years old, but sprayed perfectly Unfortunately there was not enough left to spray it over and get the coverage I needed so I bought a new can.
Blasted, primered and sanded. Then applied silver chrome base coat. It all went flawlessly. 7 days later I broke out the new can of red Metalcast, expecting it to be as good as the first can.
Before I got half the first tack coat on the crap lifted, like a solvent pop but only in one place. On top of the top bar. Bad. I thought I could fix it but that didn't happen.

I talked to PlastiCoat for about half an hour and of course they decided it was me so I changed strategies to what worked the first time. Shoot all coats in succession including the 1K Clear. Which incidentally they said would dull my paint and not work with it.

About 2 hours later I started over, blast, prime and sand. couple days later I wiped it all down with mineral spirits, and started painting. I got the silver coat pretty much perfect. in about 20 minutes I got out the under half can of the first Metalcast red. before it ran out I was close to done, and figured the final coat could be the new stuff and I could spray a little further back.
You guessed it. Another run. On the left side of the top bar. It is bad enough to annoy me, but I remembered the Liberty Bell and that inspired me to say screw it I am finishing it with the flaws and all.

I installed the seat tube decal so I wouldn't blast and paint again. Hope that stops me.

 

[RustyGold]

Looking good!

 

[Oldbikeguy1960]

Man, I am running into several roadblocks, or what we in Illinois refer to as the state animal.
1). I got my package of parts from England and tore my 3 speed apart to put the 4 speed internals into it. There is a difference in the hubs and the 4 speed is a 40 spoke so I cannot use the hub. They made the 4 speed in a drum hub but it is rare and more so in a 36 spoke.
I could modify my hub but I do not have time now so I am working on ways to get back some of the gears I lost.
At least shifting got easier! Now its only 2 levers instead of 3, until I work this out.
I have another hub coming that uses the screw on sprocket. If I am correct, I should be able to screw on a sprocket cluster and maybe get 5 gears on the wheel. That with the 3 speed hub should net 15 speeds if it works. I am cutting the parts to build the shift console now so I will need to decide soon.
The clincher there is that I need the cluster off a Front Freewheel bike or I have to weld a rear cluster so it doesn't freewheel. I would rather not weld a good cluster but we will see. If anyone has a cluster from a Front Freewheel bike they would part with I am in the market after my hub arrives, probably by the weekend.

2). My planned reoroduction Tomahawk gooseneck is probably not going to be finished and chromed in time, so I had to buy a 1960 Schwinn gooseneck with the AS bolts to take its place. It was details like that I was counting on to set the bike off and make it more competitive. I will make it work but it will not be quite as cool.

3). This one isn't a deal breaker, but I looked for the front axle size online 3 different times and always came back 9mm. So I bought 2 really nice chrome 9mm track nuts that I will never use because they do not fit. Luckily for me I had found 2 shiny chrome nuts and said "Hmmm, wonder what these will fit?" and layed them aside.
I also bought two 10mm rear axle no turn washers in chrome because those were missing as well. Yeppers, you guessed correctly. They didn't fit either. Not gonna throw those away though, so I got out the miniature files and filed the holes until they fit my 13/32" axles.
I thought I was smart enough to know not to believe everything I read on the internet.

 

[RustyGold]

"When your plan meets the real world, the real world wins."

 

[Ulu]

I didn’t comment much on your bike, but I’ve read through this whole business now, and I have to say I’m pretty impressed with you motivation and drive to build something unique and win this competition.

It was obvious that you put some effort into the commentary as well.

Also I was amazed by the whole idea of converting the planetary gear hub.

I know I’m just along for the ride here (and if I don’t weld something significant soon they’re have to kick me out of class-2) but this is a real blast reading these things and seeing what goes on inside creative minds.

The downside to all my fun, of course, is the hours and hours reading on this forum are hours and hours that I didn’t spend working on my bikes.

But I have fortunately learned many things & that makes it all worthwhile.

Edit: Because I have two front sprockets my seven speed bike is a 14, but I don’t have a front derailleur. I just reach down and change the chain with my fingers.

Where I ride I virtually never need the lowest or highest gears anyway, and only use them for fun.

 

[Oldbikeguy1960]

Well, some progress today at least!

A few small things I needed done.
I changed the bumper on the fork for a red polyurethane bumper I bought months ago.

I put the red lever boots and lever covers on my chrome steel Raleigh levers.

I made a Schwinn kickstand tool from a Craftsman wood clamp and installed the kickstand on the frame.

I installed the seat post and AS chrome seat post clamp. I am using the old style D bolt reproduction Phantom clamp set.

I cut a piece of .750 6061-T6 plate into a tank style shape to fit between the top and cantilever bars, and added a .125 piece of plate on each sideto get it wide enough to protrude past the top bar on each side.
That is the basis for my shifter assembly. I have to wait to order my two 6-3/8" Hurst shift levers to make the spacer plates, then they will be covered by finned aluminum plates on the sides and a flat plate on top with the shift patterns on it. I have a couple shots of the construction process on that below.
I had to cut the plates by hand with a DeWalt angle grinder, since my new mill will not be here until a week after I pay for it. That may not be happening for at least another 50 years or so.

I was not happy with the finned aluminum plate I bought so I will order an oval finned air cleaner top and cut that up.

Hopefully I can still buy the Torrington Jeweled pedals I want to use. I have already gone over budget, like National Debt scale. But the pedals were part of the original idea and I feel they are still vital to the finished bike.
There is a photo of them on page 1 in the first post. I already have the Sunburst end plates in the photos.

I had my friend Don, who owns Foglers Sign Shop print decals for the brass headbadge and chainguard. I had the artwork ready on Adobe Ca so he just had to put it on the printer and size it properly. I pick those up tomorrow.
Imagine my excitement!
Until later.
Rob

 

[RustyGold]

I made a Schwinn kickstand tool from a Craftsman wood clamp and installed the kichstand on the frame.

This might make a good 'How to' post.

Lots of progress...this is gonna be a cool ride.

 

[Ulu]

I made some mudflaps with 6061-T6 and it is no joke to work with. Cutting with a sabre saw was hopeless. I ended up drilling and grinding a lot.

 

[Oldbikeguy1960]

This might make a good 'How to' post.

Lots of progress...this is gonna be a cool ride.

Perhaps, but it would be filled with errors and do-overs. Maybe a How Not To Do post would be more correct?
Seriously, If there is anything I can help with on any part of this adventure I would be happy to share my adventures.
Rob

 

[Ulu]

A custom project usually gets done three times.

You build what you think is gonna work. Then you take it apart and fix the things that didn’t work the way you thought it was gonna work and put it back together again and get it working. Then you take it all apart again and paint it and put it back together.

Paul at Fab Rats says, “we do it nice because we do it twice”, but I say, “To do it nice you do it thrice.”

 

[Oldbikeguy1960]

Because thrice is twice as nice!

 

[Ulu]

Of course if you scratch the paint it might be more…

 

[Oldbikeguy1960]

Today I got a few packages of parts from different places at once. One was a 1"-24tpi die to cut my threads down the fork further. I originally bought a spacer to get out of doing this but I bought a really cool headset and tovuse it to its fullest advantage I needed to thread it all the way down.
It really went well, considering it was a $13 die shipped off eBay and I didn't have a handle to fit it. I thought it would take a week and 3 guys to thread the fork but it took about 15 minutes by hand with the die in a vise and turning the steer tube with a #3 Phillips screwdriver.

I want to put my fork and wheels on, I have a lot to do to build the shifters and I think it would help in placement if I can put on the seat and handlebars for checking the clearances. But to do that I still need to bend my sissybar as well.

I also got my new old hub today. It has no date, which is the first Sturmey Archer I have seen without a date code. After a lot of searching, I found out it is a 1938 AB-8 hub. That old and 36 spokes is not real common. I may spoke it onto my spare rim with my extra spokes and put it on later so I can have a pre war 36 spoke drum brake 3 speed on my bike.

That's all for now guys (and girls too I am sure). Probably more progress (or maybe unprogress depending on how things go) tomorrow.

 

[Oldbikeguy1960]

Of course if you scratch the paint it might be more…

If I scratch the paint again I will spray some paint in a lid and touch it up with an old T-shirt rag The first paint job was nicer than this and I should've touched that up.

 

[Ulu]

Been there, done that, got the paint soaked T-shirt.

 

[Oldbikeguy1960]

Yes, and pride goeth before a run.
And I have had a run or two in my time.