SWB0 Lazyboy

[Wildcat]

For some practice, I tried out the gold paint pen on the Wright Special. The lugs are bare metal with a couple coats of clear lacquer.

I read some reviews where the paint rubbed off easily. I'll check it tomorrow, giving it 24 hours to dry.
I've got another faux antique bike, the 1901 Mixte, I'll try with it the silver pen next.

 

[Wildcat]

This bike is the only one I've seen where the lugs don't match, the top and bottom head tube lugs are totally different. Has anyone seen this before?

 

[Wildcat]

The paint pen ink did rub off easily. I'll paint my build bike first then clear coat it. That should seal the paint I think.

I also painted the 1901 Mixte. It's the opposite of the other bike, this is bare metal with painted lugs. I added gold because it matches up with the gold brazing on the frame.

I have another bike with a lugged frame, Bulldog, also from the junk shop. It doesn't make much difference with that paint job but it gives me more practice.

 

[MattiThundrrr]

This bike is the only one I've seen where the lugs don't match, the top and bottom head tube lugs are totally different. Has anyone seen this before?

HR Morris, a little bit showy

Here's some fun reading from a guy learning to make custom lugs:

https://www.bikeblogordie.com/2016/01/how-to-design-lug-and-make-it-look-nice.html?m=1

 

[Wildcat]

Great looking lugs, but they are a match except for the letters. Mine look like they used lugs for two different frames.

 

[Wildcat]

I'm setting up the seat mount. I'm using U bolts (with shims on the frame) to hold the seat baseplate to the frame. I'm hoping 4 of them will get it snug enough so that's all that's needed. Then it can be adjusted forward or backward easily. If not, I'll run a couple of braces down from the front seat bolts to the center bar on the frame to give support. It won't adjust that easily then.

I cut out a couple of templates to get some aluminum or steel cut out. One for the seat baseplate and another to replace the wooden footboard on Frankenscoot. 5mm is the thickness for aluminum or 3mm for steel. Then I remembered I have the means to cut steel now with my angle grinder, so I just need a plate 1' by 2'. That will give me extra for braces if I need it.

 

[Wildcat]

I looked again at the frame where the tire crosses. The 26" wheel always looked a little small, but 700c is too large, so I couldn't figure it out.

Then it just hit me, it was made for a 26 x 1 3/8ths wheel! I should have known that. I've been working with 26 x 1.50. The 26 x 1 3/8ths wheel is about an inch and a quarter larger in diameter, 590mm vs 559mm, a little over a half inch in radius. And of course that's what this frame would have been made for.
So I will get a new rim and tire and redo the rear wheel. The difference in diameter won't need new spokes, I can lace 3 cross instead of 4 cross and still have a strong wheel.
This will also raise the rear a half inch which will help with the fork rake. I've compared this frame to the easy racers it is a copy of, and it has more angle to the head tube, making the steering floppy.

 

[Wildcat]

I ran the numbers, I need new longer spokes even for 3 cross, 270mm.

More gold stuff showed up. I'll use some of this, not all.

I used a donor frame to make up the shims. The ones from before were too short.

Made some roast peanuts in the air fryer at the same time. Garlic tabasco and liquid smoke.

The shims are done for now, now I'm waiting to see what the wife gets for the metal plate she went out for. I left a detailed drawing with everything in inches and millimeters.

 

[MazdaFlyer]

I still like the bamboo effect of the original finish.

 

[Wildcat]

The town has no pieces of metal, except 4' x 8' and bigger. But they had a scrap piece they sold the wife for a few bucks. They said the rust would "clean right off". It's only 1.5mm, but I can double it to get to where I wanted it, at 3mm for the seat pan and the foot board on the scooter. There's plenty left over.

My new 26 x 1 3/8ths rim and tire showed up, the spokes are coming in later today. this shows the size difference between the standard decimal 26 x 1.50 and the 26 x 1 3/8ths. the decimal size fits inside the 1 3/8ths rim.

Tires also, it's taller and skinnier than the 26 x 1.50 I had on there.

I unlaced the rear wheel so I can keep the gold hub. While I had the hub free I checked the dropout alignment and found it needed a little adjustment on the non drive side. Before and after:

I wanted to match the front rim so I painted the new rim black down the middle. It needs a little touchup, but when I lace it up it will get some scratches, so I'll finish it then.

 

[Wildcat]

The 270mm spokes were a couple millimeters short of what I needed for 3 cross, so I ran the numbers for 2 cross and they are good. I wondered how strong 2 cross would be on the rear wheel with a hub brake. Everything I read was positive, so it's ready for a trip to the shop for truing. I noticed the bearings are binding slightly but there's no adjustment on the sealed bearings and it's nearly new. I'll let the shop guys check it out while they are truing it.

 

[Wildcat]

They trued it up and changed out a bearing for two dollars extra, and I picked up a couple of inner tubes.

It's all dialed in, just needs a seat. I'll do some cutting and drilling tomorrow.

 

[Wildcat]

Template with all the holes marked for the seat pan.

 

[Son of Kradus]

The bike is sick, looks really cool and I absolutely love the totally random pic of the peanuts!

 

[Wildcat]

The dirty kitchen is right next to the shop, so I usually have something cooking in both places at the same time.

 

[Wildcat]

Doing some cutting, next to the open window with the big fan going.
I tried out a new faceshield, supposed to not fog up, and it didn't. It worked great.

 

[twojs.bike]

Sparks!!

 

[Wildcat]

It was going pretty well, I thought the seat would be on there today. I ran into two problems.

The u-bolts would almost contact the bottom of the seat, and probably would on bumps in the road. I can put 1/2 spacers and raise the seat to fix that.
The other problem was the two layers of steel. I don't think it's 3mm, maybe 2mm and not enough strength. It bent as I tightened the u-bolts, and would probably bend with weight on the seat. I need to find a piece of metal that will work. At least I know all the holes line up.

But the seat is in just the right place for my reach.

I'm debating whether or not to add a back brace.

 

[BartRidesEternal]

It was going pretty well, I thought the seat would be on there today. I ran into two problems.

The u-bolts would almost contact the bottom of the seat, and probably would on bumps in the road. I can put 1/2 spacers and raise the seat to fix that.
The other problem was the two layers of steel. I don't think it's 3mm, maybe 2mm and not enough strength. It bent as I tightened the u-bolts, and would probably bend with weight on the seat. I need to find a piece of metal that will work. At least I know all the holes line up.
View attachment 258747

But the seat is in just the right place for my reach.

View attachment 258748
I'm debating whether or not to add a back brace.
View attachment 258749

Looking good!

You could use an old seatstay or chainstay for the brace.

 

[GeePig]

If you can bend the back and front edges of the metal sheet up, it will make that plate very much stiffer - the greater the depth you can bend up, the better.

No matter how thick the sheet is, it will bend when you sit on it.