No Idea

[idiotboy]

I had a skiptooth sprocket grafted onto the 2 speed kickback that's on my TOC bike. It takes some fitting and welding but it works great, looks right and really helps out on the hills around here.
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That’s a brilliant idea, might be beyond my capabilities but I’ll be looking into it, thank you! And awesome bike!!

 

[Pondo]

That’s a brilliant idea, might be beyond my capabilities but I’ll be looking into it, thank you! And awesome bike!!

Thanks! That's one of my favorite oldies to ride. I saw these over on the CABE if you're in the market for chains:

3 Diamond Skip Tooth Chains | Sell - Trade: Bicycle Parts, Accessories, Ephemera

3 skip tooth chains. No master links. $60 shipped to the lower 48

thecabe.com

 

[idiotboy]

Thanks! That's one of my favorite oldies to ride. I saw these over on the CABE if you're in the market for chains:

3 Diamond Skip Tooth Chains | Sell - Trade: Bicycle Parts, Accessories, Ephemera

3 skip tooth chains. No master links. $60 shipped to the lower 48

thecabe.com

Just saw this right now, chains are marked sold, thank you though

 

[idiotboy]

I mean, just a bunch of single photos in one of your posts would do it for me!

I just made a post in the gallery section called “my pile of bikes”

 

[idiotboy]

UPS man brought me a 13/16” drill bit and a 13/16” reamer

and now my seat post fits!

also got a new set of tires for the band saw, so I can make a stubby rear fender for this thing

 

[idiotboy]

Bit of a plot twist here last night, I bolted on my placeholder wheel and installed the new band saw tires so I can fit a short rear fender

and just for kicks I tried the exercise bike sprocket and it fits! Clears the chain stay, decent chain line, and this guard might even fit with some hacking of the mounts!

if I did my math correctly, and I probably didn’t, the underdrive low gear of the kickback should give me a usable around town flat land ratio, and a fast direct drive top gear. I’m gonna try it and see. I started looking for some high pressure tires for easy rolling, and in a bit of luck, Dans comp has S&M speedball 70 psi tires on sale for 15 bucks a piece so I ordered a couple. Guess I’m gonna build a little hot rod. Also got headset and bottom bracket parts in the simple green bucket. Got spokes ordered, just need wood bleach and some hardware. Fender and chain guard mounting next…

 

[Wildcat]

With a 64 tooth chain wheel and a 20 tooth cog on 26 x 1.75 tires, you will have 55 and 82 as gear inches. That's what you are looking for, easy for around town and a high gear like high on a three speed. If that's a 22 tooth cog, 74 and 50. If you use 2.125 tires, add 2.5 to each number.

 

[idiotboy]

With a 64 tooth chain wheel and a 20 tooth cog on 26 x 1.75 tires, you will have 55 and 82 as gear inches. That's what you are looking for, easy for around town and a high gear like high on a three speed. If that's a 22 tooth cog, 74 and 50. If you use 2.125 tires, add 2.5 to each number.

The hub has an 18 tooth sprocket, and the tires are 26x 2.4, they claim inflated diameter is 26.5" I need to do some research on gear inches cuz I have no idea what it means. I was just trying to figure out gear ratio, and I may have done it wrong! Thank you for the information

 

[One-eyed Sailor]

I'm trying to out what it all means as well. Sheldon and @Wildcat know.

 

[Ride 'em High]

I'm trying to out what it all means as well

I think it was best replied to in your thread as the missing factors in guessing which ratio works for you before riding are how you ride and how able you are. ( I disagree about the following crank length comment though. When I'm standing and pedaling fast, which is always, I prefer longer cranks so that I can extend my legs without constantly having my knees bent in rotation. Still, correct in it's having little to do with a non-pro ride's figuring )

You don’t need that info, it’s a triviality. What I do is find what gearing I like on various bikes 1 ride for what ever purpose. Find a range for what you’re doing, basically all you need is what low gear works and what high gear works. Forget all that stuff about crank arm length and how far the wheel goes in one revolution. That’s useless. I then use the simplest bare bones gear inch calculation. People say gear inch is antiquated and it might be for hot shots, but for the advanced enthusiast this is all you need. Gear inch equals drive wheel diameter in inches times the number of teeth in the chainring (1/2 inch pitch chain) divided by the number of teeth in the rear cog. Don’t worry about measuring the wheel, if it’s say any of the 26 inch wheels just use 26 inches. All measures in inches so measure a 700 c to see how many inches you get. After you figure what works for high and low you can convert any of your bikes to that. You can also convert various wheels, cogs and chainrings to gear inches and see how far they are from what you need before buying parts. A derailleur bike can be used to see what works for you and your purpose and those high/low gears converted to gear inches. Then you can get those on your target bike. I’ve been doing this for a longtime and it works for me. As I age my needs have changed so I have changed the cogs or chainrings to better get what I need. Hot shots fine tune how far a bike travels with each revolution and each gear is chosen by the terrain and their riding style or ability. I’m not there. In my opinion that’s all you need. The number that works, once you have that your set.

Finally, I find that when I switch my single speed rides up after pushing a harder geared bike around town my lighter geared bike feels way too easy, but I get used to it, and the same thing happens when I switch back after finding it way too tough. So theres something to be said about adapting as well. Sheldon Brown lists IG hubs and compares manufacturers if you're looking for more or less difference between internal gears.. but I think you plan to keep what you've got.

 

[idiotboy]

I think it was best replied to in your thread as the missing factors in guessing which ratio works for you before riding are how you ride and how able you are. ( I disagree about the following crank length comment though. When I'm standing and pedaling fast, which is always, I prefer longer cranks so that I can extend my legs without constantly having my knees bent in rotation. Still, correct in it's having little to do with a non-pro ride's figuring )

Finally, I find that when I switch my single speed rides up after pushing a harder geared bike around town my lighter geared bike feels way too easy, but I get used to it, and the same thing happens when I switch back after finding it way too tough. So theres something to be said about adapting as well. Sheldon Brown lists IG hubs and compares manufacturers if you're looking for more or less difference between internal gears.. but I think you plan to keep what you've got.

Thanks, I do plan to just try it and see what happens, if it sucks to ride, I'll change it. I do enjoy learning the technology of these things and trying to understand it, even if a lot of it is irrelevant to what I actually do with a bicycle. There's a lot of knowledge here, and I appreciate it when it's shared.

 

[idiotboy]

All the bearings and races are soaking in simple green

stopped at the hardware store for some nuts and bolts and a container of wood bleach, just waiting for spokes. I chopped up a front fender from one of the donor bikes

then un-spoked my parts wheel to get a good rim. I’ve only used chrome rims on one build off bike before, I usually paint them or leave them original

I think the next step will be trying to mount a chain guard…

 

[MattiThundrrr]

I do plan to just try it and see what happens, if it sucks to ride, I'll change it.

The best way to figure out gear ratios, in my opinion! I rode my bike without shifting for a few months until I figured out what gear worked for my single speed conversion. Then proceeded to order the wrong tooth count sprocket

 

[JA331]

Coming together nicely. Those Speedballs are great tires. Very well made. Grab while they are cheap.