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[BartRidesEternal]

@BartRidesEternal , that fork springer loop just needs to be kept from traveling up and down the steer tube / stem. Why not use a set collar on the stem neck to hold the bracket loop in place? Get the size that will slide on over the quill part, then slide the bracket loop on, then place in the head tube. The stem bolt will hold the stem where you want it, and the collar can hold the bracket down on to the top nut of the steer tube.

They are relatively inexpensive and well manufactured. You can get the closed style, or a two piece. They can also be shimmed easily with very thin tin, like a beer can for instance.

View attachment 268910View attachment 268911

Exactly what I need. And the beer can option for shimming is great and I'll have an excuse to open up a cold one, haha
For now, I'll keep this idea in my options and see what else I can find and fabricate.
Thanks!

Here are the pages from BO18 were I addressed the issue. I cut down the headtube to fit the steertube, but there were some other nuisances once I tried to assemble the spring and cage.

Page 2 (solution part 1)

https://ratrodbikes.com/threads/winona-rider-finished.118286/page-2

Page 11 (problem ID/ input from others)

https://ratrodbikes.com/threads/winona-rider-finished.118286/page-11

Page 12 (solution part 2)

https://ratrodbikes.com/threads/winona-rider-finished.118286/page-12

Very nice and creative. Thank you! Seems like quite a job, especially cutting the lower part of the headtube.


I decided to mockup the bike, now that the frame is painted.
Getting the wheels from the storage, I noticed them both a bit deflated.... front more than the rear... I pumped air in them to check... I might get other tubes before finishing, but for now, the tires remain hard after hours.

On the ground without the fork spring. Lifting it up and down makes me think of: 'lowrider options'.

This is about the ride height I aim for.
Man this bike looks good!

Here assembling/pressing the crank bearings.

That stem peeking above the fork and wheel is giving some ideas:

Checking a few measurements.

@OddJob said:
How will your axle riser be mounted to the frame? A couple of bolts, one through the original axle dropout and the other through the rack mount hole? Welded?

Top = original.
Lower = adapted.

I faced the same issue like @kingfish254 with the dropouts being a bit too thin for these bolts. I'm grateful to have access to a lathe.

Very happy where this is heading!
Thanks for watching and reading.

 

[kingfish254]

Looking good. When I was scrolling through, this image looked like some superhero flying in khakis and red tshirt.

 

[Pondo]

Man this bike looks good!

Couldn't agree more. It's really coming together!

 

[BartRidesEternal]

Looking good. When I was scrolling through, this image looked like some superhero flying in khakis and red tshirt.

View attachment 268950

It was a red shirt. I got line seed oil stains in it, so then it becomes a cover or a cloth to clean bikes and parts.

Couldn't agree more. It's really coming together!

Thanks Pondo!


I left her in the living room tonight, so I could take a better picture in the morning (of the bike).

And I am trying out ideas to link the stem to the fork spring. I'm getting there:

Lets try this.

Above: measurements when properly clamped with and M8 bolt.

Distance to cross.


I think I can fabricate something.

I need to assemble some tensioning rods here too.

 

[BartRidesEternal]

Some updates and ideas! Very nutty update.

I'm welding these two together to create a solid fork spring base. One is M8 thread and the other M10, like the bolt going through the fork spring.
I'll need to shorten the M8 nut a little bit.

19 teeth rear sprocket. So with 24" and 44 teeth at the front.... should be okay.

Marked the hole for the coasterbrake arm.

Nuts.

And more nuts in assembly.

Tensioning tools installed!

In the end, I even added acorn nuts over the M10x1 hub shaft.

Today we also got a new member to our bicycle collection! A cargo bike, since our bike trailer got older and couldn't house the kids + groceries anymore.

CrMo frame, built in the Netherlands. Shimano motor, battery and extra tough 5-speed. Rides like a dream.

 

[kingfish254]

Cool holey cog.
Love the adjustable rear end. That came out nice.
I see those bakfiets all over Europe on vacations. They are cool people and cargo carriers.

 

[Pondo]

Looks great, very creative stuff. Those turnbuckles are a great idea! Love the cargo bike too, that thing is cool!

 

[BartRidesEternal]

Cool holey cog.
Love the adjustable rear end. That came out nice.
I see those bakfiets all over Europe on vacations. They are cool people and cargo carriers.

Thanks King!

Looks great, very creative stuff. Those turnbuckles are a great idea! Love the cargo bike too, that thing is cool!

Ah yes, turnbuckles! I couldn't find the proper english name for it.

Working on the pedals: They looked rough, but were turning really good.
I intend to fabricate new blocks. Maybe out of wood. Or some other material that I find.

Hairy!



And I found a seat! Brand new, just a little puncture on the left hand side.

Very wide too!

Tried the ape hanger bars here.
I really like these bars, but I'm not sold on them yet.

When I sat down on the seat for the first time, I thought: How can I ever ride this low? I never owned, cycled or built such a thing before.

Since we scheduled a vacation soon, I'm planning for a first testride next week. So I can focus on some details in the last weeks of the build.

 

[BartRidesEternal]

Working on some details.

Instead of the current pedal blocks, I decided to design something unique, something I like that fits the theme of the build.

I made pedal blocks in my first buildoff from wood.

Made the sides and constraints.

So cool!!!

But 3D printing this beast is insane expensive, more than 80 bucks for a set of four (PETG material) So I'll leave the model in my drawer for now. One day...

So I decided on another very neat idea. I can't show you since the material needs delivery. It is going to be aluminum, which fits the dropouts of the bike.


And I found a strong spring I can use for the chain tensioner.

To be continued!

 

[OddJob]

I really like those black bars in the last mock up you did. Fit the vibe and stance of the bike well.

I remember your pedal blocks from that first build, they inspired me to do mine on Quasi-Moto this year.
Looking forward to what you use for your material this time around!

 

[BartRidesEternal]

I really like those black bars in the last mock up you did. Fit the vibe and stance of the bike well.

I remember your pedal blocks from that first build, they inspired me to do mine on Quasi-Moto this year.
Looking forward to what you use for your material this time around!

I left the blacks bars on the bike for a testride and they are very comfortable to ride! The bar is definitely growing on me.

These bars and stem are still optional though.



I worked on a few details:

The front fork was a bit flimsy and made the front wheel wobbling everywhere.

Already much stiffer!

Better!

I clamped these extra square nuts there, so now I can loosen the dropout nut/bolt without it sliding down and having me adjust the wheel again after tensioning the chain.

I like these grips I found. Maybe I'll use these.

Welded and sprayed for the front fork.

Assembled!

 

[BartRidesEternal]

TESTRIDE TIME

I assembled some 'temporary' pedals and went for a ride.

The testride was a lot of fun and getting used to this unusual beast. Cornering is crazy scary at first. There are things that need a little work, like the creaky, floppy front fork. And a chain tensioner/guide. But the bike rides well! Ride height is good, I can get over a few bumps and the bike stops hard.

Geometry is very good too, the distance from seat to pedals/bottom bracket is comfy. Its definitely not a bike to race with, but you can go fast. 44 - 19 teeth sprockets are good with the 24 inch wheels.

The front fork is pretty noisy and creaky. Needs a little ironing out.

The front fork and wheel remain a bit floppy and creaky.

Chain tensioner inbound! We can't accept this!

 

[kingfish254]

The video of you demonstrating the front fork issue non-verbally was too funny (but I completely understood it at the same time).

I really love the flow of this build

 

[Uncle Shish]

Ummm, July 31st.

View attachment 268185

Dang ... I'm glad this was pointed out. I will quit dragging my feet

 

[BobbyStillz]

View attachment 270084
The front fork is pretty noisy and creaky. Needs a little ironing out.

View attachment 270083
The front fork and wheel remain a bit floppy and creaky.

Here is your main point of instability. By extending the mounting, and thus lengthening the bolt, you now have a 'flopper'. You're going to need to shorten the gap from cage to neck, or add braces (from the spring cage to your neck bracket) that have an elbow or compression assembly.

As you are already aware, springer forks (especially that style), can be a little 'mushy' when riding. Lowriders especially. There are 2 ways (in general) to tighten up suspension so it's not dancing everywhere.

1. Add a tention nut ahead before screwing the bolt into the neck bracket. Looks like you've done that.

2. Insert a sleeve of some sort to decrease the diameter of the holes on either end of the spring. I'm 99% sure the diameter of the spring hole is half again as wide as the diameter of your bolt shaft. This gives the spring a lot of wiggle room (to shift) when in motion.

I just happened to stumble across the ideal part for this, but you can use anything that gives you the same result. If you take the female end of a front door peephole assembly, it fits perfectly, and shims the hole like it was made to do so.

 

[dropstep]

The low slung bikes are certainly a bit weird to ride at first. The seat on mine is 23 inches off the ground and it took getting used to. I avoided a springer because of my extreme head tube angle making steering a bit of a learning experience

 

[BartRidesEternal]

The video of you demonstrating the front fork issue non-verbally was too funny (but I completely understood it at the same time).

I really love the flow of this build

View attachment 270097

I'm a bit hecitant talking on videos, especially English/Murican
But I'm thinking about doing a review on instagram about the cargo bike, so maybe I'll start chatting soon!
Thanks King!

Here is your main point of instability. By extending the mounting, and thus lengthening the bolt, you now have a 'flopper'. You're going to need to shorten the gap from cage to neck, or add braces (from the spring cage to your neck bracket) that have an elbow or compression assembly.

View attachment 270107

As you are already aware, springer forks (especially that style), can be a little 'mushy' when riding. Lowriders especially. There are 2 ways (in general) to tighten up suspension so it's not dancing everywhere.

1. Add a tention nut ahead before screwing the bolt into the neck bracket. Looks like you've done that.

View attachment 270108

2. Insert a sleeve of some sort to decrease the diameter of the holes on either end of the spring. I'm 99% sure the diameter of the spring hole is half again as wide as the diameter of your bolt shaft. This gives the spring a lot of wiggle room (to shift) when in motion.

View attachment 270109

View attachment 270110

View attachment 270111

View attachment 270112

I just happened to stumble across the ideal part for this, but you can use anything that gives you the same result. If you take the female end of a front door peephole assembly, it fits perfectly, and shims the hole like it was made to do so.

View attachment 270113

View attachment 270114

View attachment 270115

View attachment 270116

View attachment 270117

View attachment 270118


View attachment 270119

View attachment 270120

Wow, appreciate the effort you put in there. Thank you Bobby!
Since I feel there indeed a lot to gain on the part you mentioned, I will probably start on the fork legs.
That bush inside the spring seems like a great starting point for the upper part of the fork!

Thanks to your input I started "measuring"/quantifying the stiffness challenges more thoroughly

Instagram video with a little humor


After clamping down the bars:

That creaking sound

Reminds me of:

I wonder what the wife was thinking!

The low slung bikes are certainly a bit weird to ride at first. The seat on mine is 23 inches off the ground and it took getting used to. I avoided a springer because of my extreme head tube angle making steering a bit of a learning experience

I bet they'll be more fun after you get used to it.

Talking about bets... some of my colleagues think I can't ride this to work. Its about 13 kilometres. And 13 going back home.
Parking will be cheap since I can go underneath the parking lot barriers

 

[BobbyStillz]

Wow, appreciate the effort you put in there. Thank you Bobby!
Since I feel there indeed a lot to gain on the part you mentioned, I will probably start on the fork legs.
That bush inside the spring seems like a great starting point for the upper part of the fork!

Thanks to your input I started "measuring"/quantifying the stiffness challenges more thoroughly


View attachment 270210

View attachment 270211

You're welcome! I'm glad you found the information useful. Thank you for the videos, I better understand where you are having the issue. You may be able to resolve a bit of that by moving the fork struts up to the axle. It is possible you may need to fabricate a new pair from something stronger than tubing.

 

[kingfish254]

Before I even saw the bed photo, the sound of your bike made me think you could change the build name to "The Floppin' Floozy"

 

[kingfish254]

With a bike this low, you really don't really want much spring action anyway, so you could brake it in such a way that you more or less cancel out the springer in exchange for a more rigid fork.