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Ran into another problem. I dismantled the pedals intending cleaning, greasing and new bearings. Unfortunately one has a shot race. Fortunately I have a set of new old stock pedals in 1/2 inch with one toe clip mounting hole. They are old and almost identical to the originals.
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Only a problem if it can’t be fixed , otherwise it’s just a hick-up !!
I’m minor heart broken, I was going to try and use all the parts that came with it. Pedals take a beating anyway and the bad one was on the crash side. Frame dents, bent bars, mangled pedal and dented grip caps. Slowly I’m fixing what I can.
 
For most of a 24 hour period it’s still 30s-40s-50sF so my vinegar rust soak is working very slowly. The crank soaked for 4 days.
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I’ve never had any luck using other rust etching acids, they leave a green or yellow stain that I can’t get off and 4% cleaning vinegar at the bulk store is cheap. Works, so I’m fine with that.
 
Wow, you've been working your butt off on this beastie. But it looks like it's starting to pay off for you. Keep rolling with the punches (and pliers, and slide hammers, and rigamajigs,,,,,,,)
 
This bike frame is light. I figured when I got it it would have “crude gas pipes“ used in the frame. If you shine a light down the seat tube or look into the head tube you can see a seam, which makes since for something this old. The inside has a thick/thin pattern roll pressed on the inside to save weight. The embossed sheets were then wrapped around a mandrel to make the tubing. Looks like a lot of weight has been eliminated using this technology.
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The fork is just as crazy as the tubing. The fork legs were somehow wrapped around a form and wavy cutouts were tightly forced together so you can hardly see it. The stitching goes along the insides of both fork legs for their entire length. The fork crown has very tight brazing and four pins are put through the crown and into the legs with minimal brazing showing.
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Those small details are one of the reasons I love early bikes. Bikes were expensive high end goods, and manufacturers were all doing things their own way. You need a pair of these.
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Crazy advertising hype. Neat idea but I’ll stick with cork.
 
Your project is like bicycle archaeology. I'm really enjoying reading your progress and discoveries. This is fun!
I never thought of It as archeology, but that’s what it’s turned into. Under each layer of paint, crud or removed part there is a new discovery.
 
The wheel spokes are a 1 mm too long. They work because the rim is double walled and the protruding spokes won’t cause flats. Not ideal but people do this a lot and it works. I ended out using a different hub than the one I used for calculating spoke length. It had a bigger flange diameter and was 10 mm wider. Width doesn’t make much difference in spoke length calculations but I hoped it would help these spokes to fit a little better. Good enough - perfect.
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Oh, dang, there’s a crack in my frame.View attachment 196318
Wait, sorry, wrong frame. Here’s the frame I meant, sorry for the mistake.View attachment 196319
Don’t be sad, I can fix it good enough. This tubing is very thin. I welded a rod to the dent and that made the steel brittle. When I pulled the dent I herd it crack. It’s about 1/4 of the diameter of the stay. Any other frame would have been OK, but this real old tubing is too different to allow for dent removal. I’m not happy about this as I caused it. Hindsight tells me I messed up. It’s about 3/4 bridge welded but you have to go slow and careful as I think it would be easy to burn through.
 

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