Thanks for the suggestions. I'll probably be able to keep trading with the local bike shop until I get the right size. Also, the sheldonbrown website has some valuable information. They suggest that a spacing of 110mm will line up with a coaster brake on older frames. My new BB has a spacing of 113mm. It'll be close.
BUILD OFF #6 DISCUSSION
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Hey guys.
Since one of the rules for this build off is No Pro Paint. I thought I would share some of my thoughts,veiws, and advice with yall.I did paint auto's profesionaly for about 3-4 years I would say that the prep work is about 80% of what will make a great paint job.Choice of material sprayed is also very important. Starting from bare metal you have two options 1. you can acid wash or "etch" the serface or 2. you can get a self etching primer/sealant. If you choose to acid wash use the hotest water you can stand so that it evaporates as quickly as possible. If you live in a moist area you might opt for the self etching primer or sealant. if you use the sealant your gona need to add a layer of base primer on top of it. Once you have applied a good primer as your base wet sand the primer. I use 6-800 grit for most applications. clean with alchohol between each coat. some people like to use brake/carb cleaner, but can leave an eather residue that can cause a fih eye effect in the color and takes some time to reverse. When selecting a color stay away from specialty and enaml paints. Enamal is very heavy paint and is prone to run.Not to mention it takes 24 hours at 75f to dry and up to 3-4 days under cooler and moister conditions. Here in seattle we havnt had a day over 70 since last october. I prefer any flat color.use a urathine color base if possible The clear coat will make it shine.Remember to wet sand the color coats. 800 grit is fine for the can stuff. With the clear coat i might use a clear enamel only becuse of it make a very hard. strong, and shiny protective layer. but as far as the color coat(s) stay away from the enamels.I try to use I 1000 grit on my clear coats if i'm not goin for a mat or satin effect. then use a rubbing compound and a buffer wheel too get a mirror finish.When wet sanding its to get rid of the" Orange peel". The little bumps left in the paint after spraying ,just enoght to get it smooth.just thought about posting this as I have been working on a friends project as he insisted on enamal as his color coat. Its been a nightmare with a 2 tone job. A cream white and what we have been callin "hellcat" blue. Every time i put a layer of color on it wants to run and run and run.I then have to wet sand the runs re-apply let drt wet sand re-apply let dry and so on. I quess half of it is the weather/humidity in the air. But I realy wish he'd a picked somthing differnt.
Since one of the rules for this build off is No Pro Paint. I thought I would share some of my thoughts,veiws, and advice with yall.I did paint auto's profesionaly for about 3-4 years I would say that the prep work is about 80% of what will make a great paint job.Choice of material sprayed is also very important. Starting from bare metal you have two options 1. you can acid wash or "etch" the serface or 2. you can get a self etching primer/sealant. If you choose to acid wash use the hotest water you can stand so that it evaporates as quickly as possible. If you live in a moist area you might opt for the self etching primer or sealant. if you use the sealant your gona need to add a layer of base primer on top of it. Once you have applied a good primer as your base wet sand the primer. I use 6-800 grit for most applications. clean with alchohol between each coat. some people like to use brake/carb cleaner, but can leave an eather residue that can cause a fih eye effect in the color and takes some time to reverse. When selecting a color stay away from specialty and enaml paints. Enamal is very heavy paint and is prone to run.Not to mention it takes 24 hours at 75f to dry and up to 3-4 days under cooler and moister conditions. Here in seattle we havnt had a day over 70 since last october. I prefer any flat color.use a urathine color base if possible The clear coat will make it shine.Remember to wet sand the color coats. 800 grit is fine for the can stuff. With the clear coat i might use a clear enamel only becuse of it make a very hard. strong, and shiny protective layer. but as far as the color coat(s) stay away from the enamels.I try to use I 1000 grit on my clear coats if i'm not goin for a mat or satin effect. then use a rubbing compound and a buffer wheel too get a mirror finish.When wet sanding its to get rid of the" Orange peel". The little bumps left in the paint after spraying ,just enoght to get it smooth.just thought about posting this as I have been working on a friends project as he insisted on enamal as his color coat. Its been a nightmare with a 2 tone job. A cream white and what we have been callin "hellcat" blue. Every time i put a layer of color on it wants to run and run and run.I then have to wet sand the runs re-apply let drt wet sand re-apply let dry and so on. I quess half of it is the weather/humidity in the air. But I realy wish he'd a picked somthing differnt.
Thanks!
Good advise. I think I do an okay job on painting a bike myself but think these tips are well worth posting in the 'How to'-section also on these forums. Maybe you have some tips about brands. What kind of brand to stay away from and so on. I have my eye on some Montana (graffiti) paints, but don't trust em enough to just buy and apply.
Good advise. I think I do an okay job on painting a bike myself but think these tips are well worth posting in the 'How to'-section also on these forums. Maybe you have some tips about brands. What kind of brand to stay away from and so on. I have my eye on some Montana (graffiti) paints, but don't trust em enough to just buy and apply.
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Well as far as brands go the cheeper the paint the more likly your gona run into problems. you might get some that are on clearance. Its worth lookiung on the back for an expiration date becuse they do have a shelf life and can start to decompose and lose the chemical ability to atomize. There is a brand I've been wanting to check out but can only find them online http://artprimo.com/catalog/index.php they have a HUGE selection of colors. I have had good luck with rustoleum and krylon, but try not to use more than a single brand. Propraitary ingreadints dont always mesh well. I'll try to remember to post in the correct thread in the future
yoothgeye
I build stuff.
Skrufryder said:
You did post in the correct forum, he was just saying it's such good information it would also be great duplicated in the how-to section.
2011 RRBBO BENDIX AWARD!!!!!!
alright fellas, i've talked to steve and now you have TWO, count 'em, TWO chances to be a winner!
just use a Bendix hub on your bike and you will automatically be eligible to win this fantastic, handmade, all expenses paid, 2011 rrbbo memorial...........
bottle opener. :roll:
seriously. just make sure i know either by the description in your final finished build post or by pm and steve and i will knock heads and come up with a winner. good luck! :mrgreen:
alright fellas, i've talked to steve and now you have TWO, count 'em, TWO chances to be a winner!
just use a Bendix hub on your bike and you will automatically be eligible to win this fantastic, handmade, all expenses paid, 2011 rrbbo memorial...........
bottle opener. :roll:
seriously. just make sure i know either by the description in your final finished build post or by pm and steve and i will knock heads and come up with a winner. good luck! :mrgreen:
yoothgeye
I build stuff.
Dang... wouldn't happen to have any Shimano coaster brake lever can openers would you? :mrgreen:
I guess putting a Bendix arm on my Shimano wouldn't help me...
I guess putting a Bendix arm on my Shimano wouldn't help me...
yoothgeye
I build stuff.
Bendix said:
Haha, I got 2 Bendix brake arms, but both are the Bendix Mexico with the block letters, not cool like yours. I do have an old Bendix on a finished bike, but I told myself I wouldn't rob any finished bikes for this build.
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Haha I throw all my coaster brake hubs away even if there multi speed. never thoght about makin bottle openers with um. The shells do make perfect inscense holder/burners and great ash trays if you plug the bottoms.
if i weld a bendex arm to my shimano arm does that count? :lol:
yoothgeye
I build stuff.
karfer67 said:
If it does, we can both be in.
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HAHA would that make it a Spandex? or maybe a Bendimo
yoothgeye
I build stuff.
Skrufryder said:
Either one sounds good.
Well, if I can't win one, I'll defintiely get out my drill and cut-off wheel and make one.
yoothgeye
I build stuff.
OK, I know the bike must be rideable, but how about each bike be required to have a video of the builder riding it and bunny hopping it onto and off of a curb?
American Vintage Bicycle Supply
Double Nickle
I can promise you the Speed Demon will never have any flight time. Its more of a land lover. Tires to the pavement, Rubber to the floor. I think you get my point.yoothgeye said:
yoothgeye
I build stuff.
Double Nickle said:
Come on man, my bike will be heavy and old, but I'll put it up to the challenge, might have to run it on a little downhill just to prove to myself that I trust my welds.
Just 1 little bunny hop? Please!
American Vintage Bicycle Supply
Double Nickle
The Speed Demon is already gravitationally challenged so its gunna be hard but ill tryyoothgeye said:
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Can someone explain "ridable" to me for the sake of this build.So dose the builder have to ride it ? I wasnt planing on riding my entry. Its for my sister, she's alot smaller than me, so I plan on building it to her comfort and ability not mine. I guess I could ride it but shes like a half foot shorter than me and her legs aint as long.So I dont know if its ridable as far as I can "comfortably" ride.I did try to ride it when i first got it last spring but couldnt go very far until my legs n back cramped up.Dose that disquilify me? I know she's unable to bunny hop.She is an adult.23
